Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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ubergeek922

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Mine is a different device, it's a 19. I had an issue with an iclear30 shorting out but it read 1.5 on the meter. Perhaps put your atty on like normal, then remove the the top with the atty still attached. Measure resistance between the pin and top. On mine, when I tightened the clearo the pin was too tall causing the atty to short, but i would take it off and it would measure right. I ended up replacing the pin with a screw so I could adjust the height.
 

Uno mas

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Knock-on-wood, I've been pretty lucky with my #20 as far, no issues and it's used daily. I do wish the on and off position had a detent of sorts to hold the button in place to keep it from rotating during use, that's really my only complaint. Do need to go back through the thread I guess to see the problems the people are having with the fire button...
 

bzmotoninja83

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The switch design is crap. The bottom pin has a spring attached to it and when you press the switch, it presses the spring onto the top pin. I rebuilt mine with a spring from a clicky pen. It works but, I'm not betting the house on it. Inganeer said he used some 10-32 screws. I'll know for sure when it gets here but, I assume they would be equidistant so that the pin in the switch completes the circuit.

Sent from the 804
 

bzmotoninja83

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Small update on my #19.... I followed someone else's instructions from the #20 wrapping the spring with wire. After using that for a while, the wire got stuck in the lock ring. I decided to unwrap the spring and using said wire to wrap it on the underside of the post, reducing overall throw of the switch. Same performance as I had prior with much better feel in the switch. Now it's about 1mm or maybe two. First pic is after, second pic is before.

ETA:::::: the switch still got a little hot after doing this. I unwound the spring a little bit from both sides, slightly deforming the center sections. This way, the spring makes solid contact with the body instead of relying on the base to make contact. I feel it's perfect for me now.

Sent from the 804
 

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Uno mas

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The switch design is crap. The bottom pin has a spring attached to it and when you press the switch, it presses the spring onto the top pin. I rebuilt mine with a spring from a clicky pen. It works but, I'm not betting the house on it. Inganeer said he used some 10-32 screws. I'll know for sure when it gets here but, I assume they would be equidistant so that the pin in the switch completes the circuit.

Sent from the 804

I'll go back and read up on the posts regarding the 20, not going to worry about it too much till it becomes an issue ;)
 

Lhartman89

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Hmm..I was going for the brass bagua clone but now they have ss version with a celtic cross etched into the body but it looks like its painted?

Sigelei prob just sent them a rendering of the etching or something. Not sure if it's gonna look the exact same or not, but it will be etched.
 

in4mati0n11

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Knock-on-wood, I've been pretty lucky with my #20 as far, no issues and it's used daily. I do wish the on and off position had a detent of sorts to hold the button in place to keep it from rotating during use, that's really my only complaint. Do need to go back through the thread I guess to see the problems the people are having with the fire button...

Mine thermal'd once..... in the trash it went!! Please do read up on your #20 and be careful!
 

D. Waterhouse

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anyone else have a #20 short and continue to fire?any fix for this yet

I wouldn't call it a fix but I pulled out the bottom pin and replaced the original spring with a scavenged spring from a ball point pen. I cut the spring down and installed it with the cut end on the bottom pin, put it back together and tested it with my meter. If the spring is too long it will short out to the top pin. The original spring was discolored and had lost its temper on the top half that doesn't touch the bottom pin.
 

foggdawg

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So far my #20 works fine. Like Uno mas said, if the fire button wasn't so easy to move around, I'd like it more. I'm looking to revive my #19. I murdered it trying to take the bottom button apart. Wasn't so easy to twist apart as in videos I saw. I'm looking to find a replacement for the delrin because that was torn to pieces. Hopefully I could find something useful at my local hardware store.
 

ubergeek922

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My Sigelei#20 shorted and continued to fire so I found a fix for it; its now resting peacefully in my local land fill. Now my #8 works grate and my #8W

That makes me sad. I would love to find one cheap enough to mess around with and not care at all if it becomes a lost cause.
 

Uno mas

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That makes me sad. I would love to find one cheap enough to mess around with and not care at all if it becomes a lost cause.

I have a second 20 NIB untouched, I really liked my first one and picked up a second on another Co-Op, now after time the button rotating is getting old, may breakdown and disassemble one of them to get a good look at the notorious switch...

Appreciate the warnings/concerns from everyone, it's not being taken lightly :)
 

NamVet68

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That makes me sad. I would love to find one cheap enough to mess around with and not care at all if it becomes a lost cause.

Same here. I need one to use as a test-bed for a new switch setup I'm thinking about, but don't want to destroy the one I have. It's working very well, other than it has a habit of running my batteries down if I leave them in it - seems to have an electrical "leak"....either that or it's my Kick...

I missed one in the "Classifieds" thread Saturday night... $5 delivered! Someone beat me to it by a few minutes... Grr..

If anyone wants to get rid of their #20 - PM me & I'll take it off your hands if the price is right....I don't care if it works or not.
 

Lhartman89

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I have a second 20 NIB untouched, I really liked my first one and picked up a second on another Co-Op, now after time the button rotating is getting old, may breakdown and disassemble one of them to get a good look at the notorious switch...

Appreciate the warnings/concerns from everyone, it's not being taken lightly :)

You can get rid of the "lock" by prying the button off and shaving down the plastic C portion under the button. That is all that the "lock" consists of.
 
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