Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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NamVet68

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Yes you're right. Magneto is bottom button but I just want to use the #20 tube and another button.

It's really hard to say - even some of the sigelei tubes don't interchange with the #20. Most of the sigelei tubes are interchangeable between various models (like the #19 #29, 8W & Bagua clone, and others) , but the #20 tube has slightly different external dimensions and is threaded differently. Hopefully someone who has both will be able to verify that for you.

Good luck.....
 
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Curmudgeon

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It's really hard to say - even some of the Sigelei tubes don't interchange with the #20. Most of the Sigelei tubes are interchangeable between various models (like the #19 #29, 8W & Bagua clone, and others) , but the #20 tube has slightly different external dimensions and is threaded differently. Hopefully someone who has both will be able to verify that for you.

Good luck.....

Yeah, it seems the 20 is the oddball.

Thanks.
 

Mitey F

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So my Bagua came in today. I had a slightly different idea of how to cure this issue with contacts and battery vents. First thing I did was throw in a battery, adjust the + contact, and make sure it worked. 2 or 3 puffs and yes, it vapes. Off to the garage!

Now before I start, I'm feel I need to say a few things before I get yelled at and told how stupid I am for the modifications I made.

First, I use RDA's, and RDA's only. I haven't taken the plunge into "fancy" RDA's yet, as my Igos (L, S, and as of today, W) work beautifully, and are all under $20. If you ask me, I don't see how you could get a better bang for your buck. All 3 of these have the same basic 510 connection and depth, so I modded my Bagua to play nicely with my Igo's, I don't know how they'd work with an atty that has a deeper or shallower 510 connector.

Second, I use 18350's. I've got a few flat tops and a few button tops. I've got ONE 18650 that I use when my 350's are ALL needing a charge (that never happens) or when I'm vaping SUPER low resistance coils. My Bagua didn't come with an 18650 tube, which doesn't bother me. Without the 650 tube however, I can't speak to how these mods will affect the fit of a 650 with the proper tube.

Third, I like my mods SMALL (hence using 350's). Part of the reason I bought the Bagua was because it's short, and after reading about the issues here, I thought it might be possible to make it even SHORTER. It is (keep reading).

Lastly, I only spent $20 on this mod. 20... dollars... I have no issue whatsoever hacking this thing up for experimental purposes. Worst case scenario, I'm out $20. And as a fabricator by trade, I like dicking with stuff and trying to make it "better". I have a tendency to get balls deep in a project and forget to take pictures, which is what happened this time as well. You'll have to use your imagination. Sorry!

This is how the Bagua arrived, completely original. It measures about 72mm tall with the button.



OK, now for the shop talk. (I don't have measurements on hand, so I'm estimating). First thing's first, open a beer. Everyone knows you can't use power tools without a little alcohol in your system ;)



First thing I did (besides the beer) was properly adjust the + pin, and measure how far out past the threaded + sleeve it was. It was somewhere around 5.2mm for a button top Efest 350.

Then I removed the top cap and problematic "airflow ring" (back a few pages), took the top ring off of the cap, and screwed the cap back on without the ring. I then measured the distance from the top of the battery tube to the bottom of the top cap (where they would sit together if the top cap could keep threading down to meet the battery tube).

Bagua (mostly) disassembled



This measurement was somewhere just beyond 6mm I believe. I proceeded (not going to add ALL the details here unless someone asks for them later) to remove material from the threaded portion of the top cap where it screws into the battery tube. I ended up removing (I think) just under 6mm. This allowed the top cap to sit nearly flush with the battery tube (remember, I'm not using the ring). I ditched the + screw, instead using the pressed in threaded sleeve as the + contact. I also removed about .4 (?) mm from this sleeve to allow more material to be removed from the top cap. Here you can see where I removed material from both the top cap AND (what is now) the + contact.



I also removed about 1.7mm of material from the sleeve where it contacts the atty. This allows my Igos to sit *almost* flush with the top cap. ********If you remove too much, you will need to find a new plan for your + atty connection, because your male 510 will no longer reach the + battery connection!********



Discarding the battery vent ring and seating the top cap further into the body also covered the battery vent holes, which is bad, mmmk? I knew this going in, and it was part of my plan.

What I did was drill 2 #30 holes in both the bottom cap, and the button to allow gasses to escape should your battery vent. ********This is very important******** I may add more holes later, but I'm pretty sure I've got more vent area than the mod had originally, with it's 5 tiiiiiny holes.



Here is the "finished" result. I may remove a bit more material later so that the top cap sits completely flush with the battery tube, but it really doesn't matter to me. I'm a function over form kinda guy.





As I said earlier, the Bagua comes in at a measured 71.75mm. Mine is now 66.11mm overall.

A few (poor quality) reference pics for size comparison. A Joyetech Ego-C 650mah, Efest button top 18650, Smoktech Natural in 350 mode, and a 15ml juice bottle.



Smoktech Natrual w/Igo-L, Bagua w/Igo-W, Ego-V w/Igo-S, and a 400mah Ego w/510 bridgeless.



**phew** that was long winded. Hope someone finds that useful. All in all it took me about 2 hours to do this, and for $20 I've got a mod that works *quite* well. I still have to figure out what to do about the bottom button that unscrews seemingly by itself, but I can set it upright with an Igo-W and it will not fire itself. This isn't going to be my pocket mod, so I'm not planning on locking it that often. Overall, IMO a very good buy for those that don't mind diddling a bit!
 
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the4thpower3

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That thought crossed my mind. But I didn't like how it looked since the top isn't an equal diameter to the tube.
Also that meant (for me) I would have to shave down the lock ring to make it look more symmetrical.
So I decided against it.

Nice job though - how you liking the switch?
Pretty decent throw for stock eh?

Oh, in case anyone hasn't seen it.
I guess Celtic Vapes is calling this an I-Ching so that Todd would review it - since it's not a clone lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9g7M2kspSE

He mentions that there's a 18500 tube for it...
I checked on Celtic Vapes website and I don't see the IChing listed, much less a tube.
But they have 8W 18500 tubes listed (currently out of stock).
Sigelei 8w 18500 tube
 

Mitey F

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That thought crossed my mind. But I didn't like how it looked since the top isn't an equal diameter to the tube.
Also that meant (for me) I would have to shave down the lock ring to make it look more symmetrical.
So I decided against it.

Nice job though - how you liking the switch?
Pretty decent throw for stock eh?

I really don't concern myself with aesthetics (within reason of course), so the top cap diameter doesn't bother me. Personally I like it better without the big protuding rings, but that's just me.

As for the switch, I was pleasantly surprised. I thought it would be like my Natural, and be SUPER stiff at first. It's really quite nice! Perhaps a little crunchy, but for $20 I'm very pleased with the performance. I haven't measured voltage drop yet, but my Igo-W is putting out rain clouds (even more so than I'm used to with my L) so there's a good chance I'll never get around to it...
 
Thinking of getting the 8W unpolished/unglued from vaportek. I read the whole thread (took a week) and was going to get the original 8 until I saw this version (good idea?) and now my brain has mixed what works with all the diff sigs talked about!

I just want to make sure that fuses will fit with both 350s and 650s (flat or button?)?

Also does kick work with 18500 (again flat or button?)?

First mod and want to buy the right stuff the first time!!!

You guys do amazing work! Can't wait to ditch my ego!

THANKS!
 

CrimsonJack

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Just got the email that my polished 13a has been shipped! Got this one from vaportek. It will be my first mech, have an RSST coming as well to try out on it. I have some Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries, which I am 99% sure are good for mechs, but I'd like confirmation on that before I throw 'em in there.
 

NamVet68

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Just got the email that my polished 13a has been shipped! Got this one from vaportek. It will be my first mech, have an RSST coming as well to try out on it. I have some Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries, which I am 99% sure are good for mechs, but I'd like confirmation on that before I throw 'em in there.

I have the exact same MOD and a couple of RSSTs and I run it with the Panny batts all the time. .... you should be quite happy with it. One of Sigelei's better mechanicals & works very well right out of the box, but put a little Noalox on the threads and the internal face of the firing pin & it will work even better.

I use mine with all kinds of RBAs, RDAs, and even ProTank IIs. Hits like a champ with all of them. Here it is with an Oddy on it:

13a.jpg

Have fun
 

minimalsaint

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Got my 18350 "ba whatever" a couple days ago and didn't have much time to fool around with it, so I just popped out the positive pin and opened up the delrin a bit so it actually floats, took the switch apart, drilled a vent hole and added a thin washer under the nut to shorten the throw, added some noalox and threw on the IGO.
I can't see anything else I need to "fix", so I have just been enjoying it! Best $20 I have spent in quite awhile!
 

CrimsonJack

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I have the exact same MOD and a couple of RSSTs and I run it with the Panny batts all the time. .... you should be quite happy with it. One of Sigelei's better mechanicals & works very well right out of the box, but put a little Noalox on the threads and the internal face of the firing pin & it will work even better.

I use mine with all kinds of RBAs, RDAs, and even ProTank IIs. Hits like a champ with all of them. Here it is with an Oddy on it:

View attachment 250761

Have fun

Good to hear, thanks! My first mech and I was hoping I had found one I wouldn't have to fiddle with too much at first.
 

eHuman

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pizza2me

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Pics of the #24
View attachment 229120
All the bits.
View attachment 229121
510 end of the switch head
Notice the airflow control and adjustable center post
View attachment 229122
Here's the firing pin and switch assembly
View attachment 229123
Not bad as far as the firing mechanism goes.
View attachment 229127
Finally the bottom cap and tubes.

Ima gonna keep pestering you guys until I find an answer. I'm going to break it down soon and try again. I know it has probably not been done because the button on the #24 feels really good to me. But, my wife (are they ever pleased? Did I say that out loud?) says it's to hard to push.

Has anybody taken the switch button out? If so, how? Is there a spring under there that can be softened? Or any way to make it a tad softer to fire?

Thanks.
 

minimalsaint

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So, I'd like to see an inclusive rundown of the Sigeili mech models with listed defects and fixes.. Just going from number one to whatever the current is. Something to the effect of "this one needs this," or "this one is not going to work well at all," etc.

well that's not asking for much now, is it?
this thread has about every fix and then some for the sigelei models- just need to do some homework :D
 
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