Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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NamVet68

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Just a quick & dirty fix for the battery rattle/ potential top screw failure. All I did was cut a piece of brass tubing and inserted a silicon seal from an AGA-T to keep it centered, and screwed it back onto the base. The tubing forms a "stiffening" collar and when screwed in firmly (not over-tight) will make sure the screw won't fall out. I found cutting the small brass tubing to 4mm in length was a perfect length for both nipple-top & flat-top batteries, both in 18650 mode & 18350 mode. No more rattles & feels solid as a rock:

Bagua Rattle fix.jpg Bagua Rattle fix2.jpg Bagua Rattle fix3.jpg

Attys now fit flush & again - NO rattles:

Bagua Rattle fix5.jpg Bagua Rattle fix4.jpg

Feeling a bit better about it, but these things should not be necessary if sigelei had a clue...... IMHO
 
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the4thpower3

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I found cutting the tubing to 4mm in length was a perfect length for both nipple-top & flat-top batteries, both in 18650 mode & 18350 mode. No more rattles & feels solid as a rock:

You cut the tube?
You my friend are a mad man! lol

I bought a 19E brass extended (kick) tube to see if it would be useful.
Sadly the i.d. is threaded and causes battery rattle. I may try to source a piece of plastic tubing to take up space.
I set it up hybrid like with the 8w switch with an 18350 battery - but it's kinda lame.
Pics anyways.
null_zps566e39fc.jpg


Not a bad OAL for a tanked genny 18350 ... next to other 18350s
null_zps5dd781d6.jpg


Sigelei tube fest lol
and thats not all of them :facepalm:
null_zps39f2e260.jpg
 

NamVet68

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You cut the tube?
You my friend are a mad man! lol

I didn't cut the main tubes. I was referring to the length of brass tubing I cut to make the "spacer" for the main positive post screw (the little tube in the center of the first picture). I went back to the original post & (hopefully) clarified that.

Cutting the main tubes would basically accomplish the same purpose, and should have come from the factory cut to the correct length. Even if you cut the tubes down yourself, you would probably have to cut the internal threading down as well. If I had the tooling to do that, I'd just make my own MODs instead of trying to fix these :)
 
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NamVet68

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Just another quick note; I stuck a Kick in there (18650 tube with an 18500 battery) - works like a charm. The tubes might have been made for a Kick to begin with, but that still doesn't explain why the 18350 tube has the same problem. They were both made just about 4-5mm too long....

With all the extra time they took with this MOD, I was hoping they would have gotten all of these "features" ironed out before they shipped them.... Guess not.

Oh well... back to our regularly scheduled vaping....

YodaProvari_zps93f2dc48.jpg
 
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crss

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    I love my 2 sig #19's ss & copper model.But sad to say this week I got paps v2.5. My sig's dont get much use other the when I sit here at the cpu & drip with ago-w & sig ss #19. Great performance. My paps + stratus22 + pluid is next to me. I think the pluid full strength is f ing me up. I am feeling really good, but my stomach is doing loops. I love my sig #19's in ss & copper. But my Top $ mods are taking front seat. My Chi-U clone was in my pocket 3 days this week. I give it + flat top a Double thumbs up. But you would still have to pry my Sig #19 / #8 / #20 out of my hands... For a nice cheap mod my #19's rock.
     

    Rapture

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    I dont know if this has been posted yet or not but....I order a stainless steel noziac top cap from vaportekusa for my sig #19e custom (brass). After grinding down the top of the cap a little where the 510 sticks up all my drippers sit flush on top and they look so good on there with that stainless steel top cap. with the spring taken off the top cap all i do is back out the derlin insulator screw with brass post. screw on the dripper till it sits all the way flush and then snug up the derlin insulator with brass post.

    I also grinded down my stock brass top cap all the way flat and do the same for that one too. I didnt even use a single tool. I grinded them all down on the smooth concrete outside my apartment. The concrete in front of the door is smooth from walking on it. Now that I have two top caps for my sigelei 19 i dont hardly even take the drippers off the caps i just swap out caps so i can keep the 510 threads perfect.
     

    Rapture

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    I have noticed that my brass sigelei 19 has a lighter patina on it then my newly obtained brass m16. I think i did read that the sigelei from kindney puncher where i got mine has a tarnish resistant clear coat on it. What doesnt make any sense is it still tarnishes but just looks lighter. My m16 looks alot darker. I do like the patina on both of them though. But i actually like the lighter buttery patina on my sigelei better
     

    Rapture

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    It might be the difference in brass quality too. Like what the ratio of metals used

    Sent from my Optimus G using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

    Yeah I actually think it is different brass qualities and has nothing to do with the so called clear coat tarnish protection. My brass m16 probably has more copper in it or something.
     

    Peppie

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    Good eye there 4thPower.
    Using the 19switch left a small gap in the tube area in the 18350 mode so I used a couple of o-rings from the RSST.
    I could only get the 2.5 ohm in the 19.5mm boge cartos from IBTanked.
    They seam to be OK. I have nothing to compare it to, this is my first Carto set-up.
    I need to shop around to find lower ohm's in the 19.5mm.
    I am going to order another Standard IBTanked set-up with 1.5 to 1.8 ohms to compare it to.
     

    the4thpower3

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    The best I can find are Smok Shortys in 1.7ohm - but you'd need to punch your own hole - which maybe a PITA on that little thing.
    I may just try it. I really like the size of the IBT halfling.

    So, to address those about the different brass - of course brass can be made in varying amounts of copper and zinc - which will afford them different properties: weight, density, conductivity, appearance. I wouldn't say "quality' because that depends on the requirements of that specific alloy per manufacturers specs.

    I know they have a coating on them. And certain that it makes them slightly magnetic. I stated earlier that I sanded one down and is now no longer magnetic. I believe they are using some sort of paramagnetic coating. Just not sure what. They won't say.

    I've been vaping all day with my sweaty hands, outside, on my new Sigelei "Bagua" and it has not tarnished at all. You can see my finger prints and grease left on it, but that will just wipe off; no tarnish. It may after a few days, but I have not had it long enough.
    My other brass devices (GV clones etc.) will start to tarnish within an hour.

    Also, I mentioned before that I bought a 19E brass Extended (kick) tube - the i.d. is obviously a bit wide to accommodate the 19 inner tube. But I wanted to see how I could use it. I posted a pic in 8W modded 18350 mode. But I found a better use for it.
    The "bagua" doesn't come with an 18500 tube - they don't make one. But this 19 brass Extended tube does - with a little space saving.
    I screw the adjustable top pin in all the way and used an Efest 18490 flat top - fits very with no rattle :) because it's so nice and snug. But I did notice that this tubes o.d. measures 23mm and the Bagua tubes measure 22.75mm - so it is very slightly wider and has that tiny overhang where it meets up with the button - unnoticeable at the top because of the ring. But it's nice to have the use of 18500.
    Pic of it in this 18500 configuration next to its 18650 and 18350 tubes.
    null_zps4de25ae9.jpg

    Oh, and that pic is with the 18350 tube that I've been using all day - no tarnish.
     
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    NamVet68

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    Do any of you Sigelei 20 owners have a Smok Magneto?

    If so, can you tell me if the Magneto top cap will thread onto the 20?

    I don't have a Magneto, but I have three #20s. If I'm not mistaken, the Magneto is a bottom firing MOD, while the Sigelei #20 is a top (side) firing button, so you might be dealing with apples & oranges....
     

    Curmudgeon

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    I don't have a Magneto, but I have three #20s. If I'm not mistaken, the Magneto is a bottom firing MOD, while the Sigelei #20 is a top (side) firing button, so you might be dealing with apples & oranges....

    Yes you're right. Magneto is bottom button but I just want to use the #20 tube and another button.
     
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