I ordered the #20 last night and saw todds review. So did i hear him correct, we cant sand down the top 510 connection because the pin isnt adjustable.?
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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From what I understand in the video, not only is the pin not adjustable but the connector would also not be deep enough to securely hold the device onto the mod.
EDIT: I believe he said in the video that even if you sand it down, the gap would remain because the connector well is too shallow.
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I guess that makes sense.
But yeah, regardless, just having the battery reversed isn't a problem in itself.
No it isn't...
Like I said, the ONLY problem with reversing that I can think of, is if the wrap is damaged...
Compared to SLR coils, it's not much of a risk really.
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The #20 is stainless steel, it's a top button, not really caps. The bottom button #8, #13, #21, etc. are chrome plated brass.
anavidfan is probably referring to the modded #8s and #13s in this thread, with the chrome plating sanded off. I don't know of one that comes from Sigelei with exposed brass, they chrome their stuff or use steel.
Not having batteries in your smoke alarm isn't a problem in itself.
Lot to be said for the "not worth the risk anyway" argument...
Lot to be said for the "not worth the risk anyway" argument...
Try looking at it this way, let's add up the no buenos.
Battery correctly placed in the simple circuit, like any good engineer would:
-Atty shorts, no bueno.
-battery shorts, Atty coil pops, open circuit, bueno.
Battery reversed:
-Atty shorts, no bueno.
-battery shorts, run away dead short, major no bueno.
So you tell me, why would you reverse the battery? If you're going to take risks, at least pick fun ones like motorcycles or hang gliding.
You're creating a false condition, a logical fallacy, by omitting the possibility of battery damage. We say the risk is battery damage, and you come back with omitting battery damage. That's not how engineering works, that's not how you design a product.
Here's more on the topic:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/337497-warning-battery-reverse-polarity-apvs.html
That's what Todd said. He installed the flush connection from his Roller (same effect as grinding down the stock one) and the 510 connection from the atty bottomed out against the delrin & non-adjustable top pin.
So... until someone figures out how to disassemble the switch so the top can be modded, it's Gap city.
My thought is, if the center pin can be removed (hopefully, it's just press fit into place) we can alter the shape of the delrin plug (make it deeper) and replace the original non-floating center pin with a suitable sized brass screw. That should make flush mounting possible.
Someone's going to have to be the guinea pig and run the risk of destroying their switch figuring out how to disassemble it.
Mine won't be here 'til Monday, so I can't even get eyes on the situation until then.
Someone's going to have to be the guinea pig and run the risk of destroying their switch figuring out how to disassemble it.
Todd, in his review, pretty much indicated he was going to go for a full tear down.
I'm betting I'm right though. Mostly because it's the easiest solution from a manufacturing standpoint. They would have made it as simple a process as they could to reduce assembly costs. The two holes in the cap section are the mystery. Are they there to secure the spring for the button? Don't know yet.
Right, should be able to remove the pin, countersink the delrin, re-install the pin and the 510 threaded part upside down from the inside?
I'm not sure but seems like it would work.. I have't looked at this one too close, I likey the bottom buttons and pinky switches.
I'm not sure but seems like it would work.. I have't looked at this one too close, I likey the bottom buttons and pinky switches.
The circuit from the "load" side of the switch to the pin is probably a single piece of brass. The same on the "line" side from the battery to the switch. That would be the simplest most cost effective (cheapest) way to build the switch.
I forgot about these images of the 20's switch from way back 2 weeks ago. If this is what they went with, I'm totally off on my center pin idea.
Is this the image you are referencing? I'm curious to see the final version because this is obviously not the brass version, and they did mention this could be provided in Aluminum....weird.
And that would also make it all but impossible to adjust.... Or at least to adjust very far.
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Hey guys, I have a question. I'm new with mechanical mods and I just got my Sigelei #8. I want to learn about modding it so that it can conduct a lot better and also just general maintenance on mods. I don't know much about those things so if someone could please help me out or link me to a thread/video where it shows how.
I'm assuming you could just jam a dremel into the 510 connector to just grind down the center pin and surrounding delrin piece.
Wonder how they got the switch out? Once removed maybe the delrin insert could be pressed out & a sex bolt could be ground down to fit.
If that's the final design of the switch then it doesn't look like an easy fix to install an "true" adjustable pin (adjustable from the battery end/terminal). It can be done but may not be worth all the work. Adjustable from the atty side looks very do-able but I don't have a #20 to play with. I'm still waiting on a #19 from a pre-order.
In the 20 the delrin doesn't look to engage any of the metal at the top plate. I wonder if the pin in the button can be knocked out so the button can come off and the shaft slid in far enough to clear the housing and the rest of the assembly be driven out the bottom????
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