Sigelei Mechnical Mods
- Thread starter pillowking
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Out of the box, the #19 has issues making a complete circuit. Lots of misfires. That's because the button doesn't keep contact with the mod body if it's pressed a certain way. The addition of the NR wire keeps the button grounded with the rest of the mod at all times so there are no misfires. There are several fixes for this issue. I think this one is the best.
*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*
And isn't that the same logic with the plastic #13 switches, bad contact connecting between the spring and negative pin? Just thinking about whether the same logic applies to the #13, have the switch contact the spring that touches the battery completing the connection via the switch and the body of the mod. I guess what I am thinking is the metal switch would work with the original negative pin design. Trying to figure a way for the #13 to work in top button or bottom button mode with the parts I have on hand. Not going to try it though without some guidance. Is my logic faulty?
Two different issues entirely. The problem with the #13b was the switch, acting as a bridge, made uneven contact with the two parts of the negative post (the spring and the brass). The #19 is an issue with the button being grounded with the rest of the mod body. A better analogy would be the button of the #13a. The pin carries the current through the button housing and into the mod body. If the pin doesn't have contact with the housing (floats), then the the circuit is broken. The spring inside the button housing assists in transferring current from the pin to the housing. The fix in the #19 is like placing a piece of metal connecting the spring to the housing so there is no risk of a broken connection.
Any thoughts on that copper tape mod mentioned in the video at 7:27?
I missed that. It's a good idea for sure. You wouldn't need to run anything through the inside of the Delrin that way. Just cover the spring side of the Delrin and run a piece up the outside threads. The spring would make contact in any position. If it gets oxidized, you just replace the tape.
Sigelei Telescopic -19
The magnet located on the switch ...
I used a "bernzomatic" torch, to remove this magnet ...
Used the torch to heat up the magnet, then used a pair of pliers to twist the magnet off.
The magnet came off, easily while it was hot.
The magnet located on the top cap, can be removed, using a pair of pliers ... twisted off.
The magnet located on the switch ...
I used a "bernzomatic" torch, to remove this magnet ...
Used the torch to heat up the magnet, then used a pair of pliers to twist the magnet off.
The magnet came off, easily while it was hot.
The magnet located on the top cap, can be removed, using a pair of pliers ... twisted off.
Different sizes and uses entirely.
The spring in the #19 is not part of the circuit. Well, it's not supposed to be. The #19 spring is solely used for button resistance. The circuit should be completed by the switch housing itself, but the design is faulty so the fix is to include the spring as part of the circuit by means of an internal contact between the spring and the metal housing.
The #20 spring is the negative connection between the battery and the mod. As long as it's conductive with low resistance, it's good. The included spring in the #20 is stainless steel, which has low conductivity. That is causing huge voltage drop under load. Swapping it out with a brass or copper hot spring solves this.
The spring in the 19 was meant to provide throw and resistance in the switch and not to complete the circuit.
In the 20, the spring is the negative battery contact.
Both mods benefit from a better spring.
Last edited:
The not suposed to part is what I was referring to
That doesn't make sense. The springs in both mods need to be replaced and tweaked. They both work out of the box, just not well. But, what default spring coming out of China doesn't need replacing? This is why I bought 4 Helix springs 6 months ago.
I just thought it was ironic that the part that makes the 20 almost non function is the same part that makes the 19 almost 100% reliable with the addition of the NR wire.
I understand how they both work and that both can also use some tweaking to get maximum performance, and did not mean to criticize anyone or the mods.
I understand how they both work and that both can also use some tweaking to get maximum performance, and did not mean to criticize anyone or the mods.
I've got the Sig 20 and its great, would recommend to anyone, the spring needs changing for sure, the button is great no miss fires going in to day 2, its a great little beast. The only gripe I have is the gap, I've tried a few different attys and they won't even sit on the raised part of the 510, if this thing had a adjustable center pin it would be fantastic
Looking at the strip down with more pictures on facebook, it maybe possible to swap the top and bottom pins with a long brass bolt inserted from the bottom, it could also float, so screw the atty on first then let the hot spring and the battery push it up to make contact with the atty
Anybody know if these springs will work well for the 20? Either the first or second?
http://www.madvapes.com/catalogsearch/result/?order=relevance&dir=desc&q=Spring
http://www.madvapes.com/catalogsearch/result/?order=relevance&dir=desc&q=Spring
The large is more likely to fit. The description of your link does not mention if it is a hot spring, however. You might want to check out one more like this:
HeliX hot spring - Avid Vaper
- Status
Similar threads
