got a few hotsprings on the way from avid vapor.. my #20 and hot springs r racing eachother to my house right now.. hope the #20 wins that race
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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This is the same strip down for the #20 Todd posted in a earlier post but with pictures, thanks to Gary of celticvapes
Step 1: unscrew 510 connector and remove plastic washer
Step 2: ease off fire button and remove spring ,take note which way spring is sitting, you may need screwdriver either side of fire button to remove ,the little grey pin on the fire button is part of the lockable button feature
Step 3: take needle nose pliers and gently pull on fire button pin that is in control head to remove plastic housing
Step 4: take needle nose pliers and gently work out centre post and spring from bottom of control head
Step 5: lay control head with top side flat on surface and insert screwdriver into hole on base of control unit and gently tap remaining centre post out
Step 6: turn control head over so top can be seen and take a flat headed screw and gently tap out remaining plastic housing
Step 7: rebuilding of control head is reversal of what has just been done Tip: build fire button assembly before refitting ,makes it easier to get fire button on fully and line up grey pin on fire button so that it is in the on position ,you will see the groove in plastic housing
Step 1: unscrew 510 connector and remove plastic washer
Step 2: ease off fire button and remove spring ,take note which way spring is sitting, you may need screwdriver either side of fire button to remove ,the little grey pin on the fire button is part of the lockable button feature
Step 3: take needle nose pliers and gently pull on fire button pin that is in control head to remove plastic housing
Step 4: take needle nose pliers and gently work out centre post and spring from bottom of control head
Step 5: lay control head with top side flat on surface and insert screwdriver into hole on base of control unit and gently tap remaining centre post out
Step 6: turn control head over so top can be seen and take a flat headed screw and gently tap out remaining plastic housing
Step 7: rebuilding of control head is reversal of what has just been done Tip: build fire button assembly before refitting ,makes it easier to get fire button on fully and line up grey pin on fire button so that it is in the on position ,you will see the groove in plastic housing
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i read a post that superT wrote about about getting rhodium plating... said there's only a couple places in north america that do it up vaping quality purposes... jeweller's use a method that is not as good...just saying... i think its in the ELA thread. basically its almost impossible to get it done that way outside of some serious volume... or something.
It's because on the sig #20 the 510 pin needs modding somehow because attys won't screw all the way down
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finally been able to post here, been following this thread in hope for my up coming sig 20. anyways ive been looking into heat springs. ive seen the recommended one from HeliX hot spring - Avid Vaper but im curious about this one https://vaporbank.com/shop/index.php?p=product&id=1082 although it says its gold i contacted them and the specs are "brass 2cm wide and it is about 1.25cm tall" my question would this be a better alternative??
Yeah I read up on it yesterday and any Cu alloy has to get nickel plated first to prevent rhodium base solution contamination. Think its going to be priced too high, the jewelry my wife gets plated is Pt and Au so its pretty straight forward. Oh well, just have to clean a bit more often.
Both products are hot springs for mods...they are comparable.
Check out todds reviews, he recently did a tutorial on creating a brushed finish
That Looks good. And we are blessed to have have Todd chiming in here with this fine Sigelei coverage. I have been paying close attention to all of his vids as of late, and he awesome. On the same note, Scott Bonner has a vid of the homemade "Gold plating" he is doing.
I am seriously thinking about ordering that plating kit. It can be had with not only Gold, but Silver and Nickel as well. Nickel, when polished out looks really sweet. In the kit there is also a chrome plating removal liquid as well. This would come in very handy me thinks...
http://www.gold-plating-kits.co.uk/index.php/gs200-electroplating-kit-with-gold-and-silver-solutions.html#.UZDsYKIqZ4U
I'm still confused as why the Chinese feel that they must chrome plate everything, including contact points ?
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So, for someone like me who is most definitely not a modder the sig #20 won't work? But, it's so beautiful!It's because on the sig #20 the 510 pin needs modding somehow because attys won't screw all the way down
I love the looks of the #20 and would love to have a mech mod for a couple of reasons. But, I am totally not mechanically inclined. Is there a mech mod that you would recommend?
BTW, just because I'm not mechanically inclined doesn't mean that I'm not fascinated at how things work. I love your detailed break-down of the #20 head and switch. It's so clear. If only I had better eyesight, manual dexterity, and above all patience!
It's fascinating to see how things work and the things that some of the more gifted people can do!
If you replace the spring, the #20 works. Some people take issue that there is a gap between the atty device and the mod itself. If a 2mm gap between the two devices does not bother you, then order a #20 and a replacement spring and you're good to go.
So this "It's because on the sig #20 the 510 pin needs modding somehow because attys won't screw all the way down" is just a complaint about the looks and not about function? There's no problem with making contact or anything?If you replace the spring, the #20 works. Some people take issue that there is a gap between the atty device and the mod itself. If a 2mm gap between the two devices does not bother you, then order a #20 and a replacement spring and you're good to go.
* crossing my fingers *
Correct. Looks, not function. Some people just prefer a gapless fit.
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Yes, it's a complaint that the atty does not sit "flush" on the mod without a gap. The function is good once you replace the hot spring. Todd's Reviews has a good video review of the #20 that you can watch (he's also on Facebook and YouTube, great reviews IMO): Todds Reviews
Change the battery spring & you're solid gold. I went through two 18490s vaping a 3.5ml tank on a 1.2Ω coil.
Uncross fingers
Use fingers to search for a Quality Hot spring(Bottom spring) and toss the original in the trash. Cost= a few bucks. Result= Very nice working mod.
ETA - simple stop gap measure while waiting on spring. Take a piece or 16-20ga copper wire, strip ends wrap bottom coil, thread up inside spring, wrap top coil. Instant conductor.
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Anyone getting Mod Happy please remember, the 510 MUST make good contact to the mod Body for ground.
Pin can be slightly lowered by drilling the Delron a mm and shaving the pin bottom by the same mm to maintain switch contact position.(estimated) This would be a Fixed position.
Pin can be slightly lowered by drilling the Delron a mm and shaving the pin bottom by the same mm to maintain switch contact position.(estimated) This would be a Fixed position.
Thank you. That's such a relief. Looking into my crystal ball, I think the sig #20 is in my near future. As soon as I can find it in stock (at the same time that I have a little spare cash).
Impatiently waiting for my 20 (I effed up my paypal and used an echeck....I was in a hurry and got click happy....never do that BTW they take forever to process and clear)
Anyway I was wondering if there was enough pin to grind down and tap out for a small brass screw, the modified stock pin could be held in place with a little epoxy. I'm just not sure if there is enough meat and space.
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