Sigelei Mechnical Mods
- Thread starter pillowking
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Right folks Gary at Celtic vapes has now got the silver bullet hot springs, he will be sending one out to everyone who purchased them from Celtic vapes, also he will be including the silver bullet hot spring with all sigelei #20's from now on 
Thats a mighty fine family indeed !!
Sold my #20 yesterday. I Don't have the willingness to do a complete rebuild of the control head just to get an adjustable pin and allow for a flush mount. I do have my #19 on the way, so modding that should be a piece of cake comparatively. I must choose my battles as I'm sure there are more affordable mods down the pike. I know you were all concerned about my decision, so there it is. As you were.
Sold my #20 yesterday. I Don't have the willingness to do a complete rebuild of the control head just to get an adjustable pin and allow for a flush mount. I do have my #19 on the way, so modding that should be a piece of cake comparatively. I must choose my battles as I'm sure there are more affordable mods down the pike. I know you were all concerned about my decision, so there it is. As you were.
No need to completly strip the #20 I just pulled the bottom pin out and pushed the top one out and got busy with a dremel
I just got an email from Andy De Luca letting me know which Sigelei Mods are in stock now and which are coming in soon. I had asked to be notified when they came back in stock.
But, I don't remember what the website was! Does anyone know what website sends email notifications from Andy De Luca?
But, I don't remember what the website was! Does anyone know what website sends email notifications from Andy De Luca?
No need to completly strip the #20 I just pulled the bottom pin out and pushed the top one out and got busy with a dremel
Knew someone would figure the easy way.I've decided to just enjoy mine for a while. Just feels to good in hand to go ripping it apart yet. Kind of used to gaps from all the othe junk on the market.
Have a T3 mini on one with the Ego adapter running 2.0............Juicy Peach OMG so good!!
Figured out the (2) Holes in the #20 Head also:
Used to align and hold the switch pin secure while attaching the Button. Guess they were not smart enough to assemble in advance.
No need to completly strip the #20 I just pulled the bottom pin out and pushed the top one out and got busy with a dremel
So you're telling me that the connector accepts all your devices without leaving a gap? I don't see how that's possible without creating an adjustable positive pin and a deeper connector. Pics.
I like the #20 so far, but ...
I keep looking at those holes and trying to figure out a way to plug them, they seem idiotic
I hate the #20 switch lock
I'm only intending on using a couple of "devices" and both fit perrrfect
Stop that! you are going to have him paying a profit to get his #20 back
I like the #20 so far, but ...
I keep looking at those holes and trying to figure out a way to plug them, they seem idiotic
I hate the #20 switch lock
How come you hate the switch lock, I do agree about the damn holes though, but its a cheap ... mod I don't care too much, its just gaps that bother me
I keep looking at those holes and trying to figure out a way to plug them, they seem idiotic
Bedazzle them holes
Stop that! you are going to have him paying a profit to get his #20 back
Believe me, I have no regrets. There's so many mods out there and I already have 5 different ones. I know I'm going to spend some time modding and polishing the #19 already. I need the free time to actually vape. Seeing the #20 made me want to buy a Roler, which I would rather have if I'm going to own a top button mech. Either the Roller or a 69 mod, can't decide.
I like the #20 so far, but ...
I keep looking at those holes and trying to figure out a way to plug them, they seem idiotic
I hate the #20 switch lock
You need to think as a chinese mech mod designer. Those holes are for cross ventilation.
You need to think as a chinese mech mod designer. Those holes are for cross ventilation.
Chrome injection ports, maybe.
In case it starts getting dangerously conductive through wear and tear.
I'm a tinker so futzing around is ok with me as long as I have others to use (which I'm doing pretty good on right now)....but I'm with you on the roller...well kind of...I'm not the biggest tele fan so I would buy a Dingo in a heartbeat.
LOL, You guys crack me up
I don't know about everyone else, but the button on my #20 spins all the time. The unlocked position seems to be very specific, whereas the default seems to be a locked button. It's frustrating...grrrr
I don't know about everyone else, but the button on my #20 spins all the time. The unlocked position seems to be very specific, whereas the default seems to be a locked button. It's frustrating...grrrr
I know there was some talk about rhodium plating not being able to be done by a jeweler.
I can't say one way or the other, but I found this on the atmizoo website.
"One last thing to keep in mind is this – if the damage on the contacts is excessive, then polishing them will not be a long term solution, since the silver-plating layer will be damaged. You can tell if the plating layer is intact by closely looking at the polished contacts: If the black areas have a more localized, bright yellow tint after the cleaning, then it means that the plating layer has been damaged, leaving the brass core exposed. You can still twist the fixed hex contacts, in order to get a fresh side pointing up, however, if the moving contact rod is in a similar condition, it might be a good idea to get the contacts re-plated. Take them to your local jeweller’s and ask for a thick silver or -better- rhodium plating***, and the device will be like new again. One more reason to love mech switches.
* Don’t use gold, since it’s only suitable as a dry (non-arcing) contact plating material in low-power circuits."
I can't say one way or the other, but I found this on the atmizoo website.
"One last thing to keep in mind is this – if the damage on the contacts is excessive, then polishing them will not be a long term solution, since the silver-plating layer will be damaged. You can tell if the plating layer is intact by closely looking at the polished contacts: If the black areas have a more localized, bright yellow tint after the cleaning, then it means that the plating layer has been damaged, leaving the brass core exposed. You can still twist the fixed hex contacts, in order to get a fresh side pointing up, however, if the moving contact rod is in a similar condition, it might be a good idea to get the contacts re-plated. Take them to your local jeweller’s and ask for a thick silver or -better- rhodium plating***, and the device will be like new again. One more reason to love mech switches.
* Don’t use gold, since it’s only suitable as a dry (non-arcing) contact plating material in low-power circuits."
- Status
Similar threads
