Those started life as a normal hex nut from Lowes. I have a lathe at work and used it to turn them down to size.
The alternate method (as clancy described) of using a power drill and a metal file will work too...just a bit more time consuming.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Those started life as a normal hex nut from Lowes. I have a lathe at work and used it to turn them down to size.
The alternate method (as clancy described) of using a power drill and a metal file will work too...just a bit more time consuming.
It sounds like your plan exceeds my tools and skillz level. One of these days I will work on the 20. I'm still working on the 13B...I have it firing consistently, but I'm not sure what I've done is safe. I have another idea to try before I go with the unsafe method or just give up and keep it for parts...
If it works like I am planning (rarely does...lol) then it will be fairly easy. Takes away the true "mechanical" aspect but hey...If it works...
I'd like to pick up a shot #20 to play around with too. Gotta be some way to mod it without that spring.
Same here Okty but I don't have a #20 either... Maybe mod the firing pin on the #20 so that's it's shaped like the #8's pin with a larger diameter "mushroom" head to complete the connection between the atty and battery pins making sure that the switch button is insulated and doesn't touch the body to prevent any possibility of a dead short (sand down the diameter of the switch button maybe??).
That's how it should have been done at the factory and one of the reasons why I didn't buy a #20 after seeing pics of the switch relying on that small wire gauge spring to carry the current. Sigelei needs to get their crap together and hire an engineer. Hell, even a highschool Vo-Tech student could design a better switch, lol.
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This might work for you http://www.amazon.com/32-Threaded-Aluminum-Spacer/dp/B008AXW1TM . I think the shortest one they make is 1/4". Aluminum is easier to work with and more conductive than the brass. If you do go this route then make sure use some anti corrosion lube between the aluminum and brass to prevent electrolysis (corrosion) between the dis-similar metals.
Sears Hardware store has them, Lowes and Home Depot might too... I'm using something similar in the #8 spring bypass I'm doing, just need to find time to finish it, lol.
Edit: The O.D. of an 8-32 threaded bushing/spacer is 1/4". Here's a better link for aluminum ones http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-standoffs/=n44cqk . Link for brass ones http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-standoffs/=n44dhl
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Just purchased my first mechanical mod (the Sigelei 8, I hope it's a decent choice). I've read a little bit about modifications that improve the performance. Can anybody mention anything specific?
Also, I hate to be a pain but if anybody had an 8 I would love to see some 18350 mode pictures compared to some other vape stuff.
Also, I hate to be a pain but if anybody had an 8 I would love to see some 18350 mode pictures compared to some other vape stuff.
Check out Rader's blog made specifically for modding the #8. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/rader2146/4193-modding-sigelei-8-maximum-performance.html
They need to hire ME!!!
At least I could tell them where magnets are *supposed* to go and help them build around some of the crazy stuff they are trying to use now, like that spring in the #20 switch.Here's mine in 18350. Sorry, but don't have a pic of it compared to anything else.
And one with the DID clone on it.
AGA is now set up with 0.7ohm 28awg coil on #325 mesh. All contacts in the #8 have been taken back to brass. It is excellent, I'm still to do the switch throw. Come tomorrow, I will have a Kick clone for it as well, so will revert to running it in full length mode.
Sigelei #8 Mod Electronic Cigarette from AquaVaporCig North Carolina
This is the one I picked up. It says it's the new version with an upgraded brass spring. Will that still have to be replaced for optimum performance? I'm stoked to join your ranks, Sigelei crew
This is the one I picked up. It says it's the new version with an upgraded brass spring. Will that still have to be replaced for optimum performance? I'm stoked to join your ranks, Sigelei crew
I can't help with size comparison pics, but my sigelei #8 measures just shy of 3" tall in 18350 mode. As far as modding I sanded all of the contacts back to brass, removed the bottom spring and added a piece of sterling silver tubing that's soldered to a sterling disc and then press fit into the bottom connector. Since I took out the spring I can only use this mod with an 18350 batt, the 18650 doesn't fit correctly.
Rader2146's blog #1 for your #8 sig. here is a picture of 18350's ready for hourly usage.
I can't seem to stop torching stuff! Here's the #19 with the #8 cap and torched igo-l. And a #8 with the #19 cap and hh.357. Gonna do some drip shields and drip tips next. Satin and polished finishes are coming out differently, the igo-l is polished.
No, I'm not a fan of lacquers or waxes on metal. When the finish gets scratched up I'll just polish it off and re-torch (unless I decide to go back to plain steel).
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