Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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g3n3r1c

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Safely? I guess I knew they would fit. I was more worried about protection issues.

Aren't these all unprotected batteries? Don't I want to be using protected batteries in a mech mod?

I use only IMR high drain batteries without protection in vented fully mechanical mods, does that make my way right?
You should always wear protection :)
 

WinchellNomNom

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Safely? I guess I knew they would fit. I was more worried about protection issues.

Aren't these all unprotected batteries? Don't I want to be using protected batteries in a mech mod?

All your batteries are imr. They are safe chemistry. In a vented tube you shouldnt have any issues if your batteries vent.
 

qorax

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...Don't I want to be using protected batteries in a mech mod?

Yes, u must.
Any mod which doesn't have some sort of originally manufactured protection system MUST be used with "protected batteries". And Mech. Mods r one such. It has nothing to safeguard us against probable/possible malfunctions... it's just a tube holding a powerful electric device(!), a very powerful one... yes 18650 is, it can blow our face off! And I'd definitely not want that time-bomb right on my face!

That said, most "unprotected batteries", at least the ones made by manufacturers worth their salt, will have some sort of protection, else they wouldn't offer them OTC (over-the-counter). However, it's not "fully" protected. See below:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A "protected battery" will typically be produced with the following four (4) protections:

1. A PTC (Pressure, Temp., Current) Switch. This protects the output of the battery against high-pressure, over temperature and unusual draw of current. It cut's-off the output in such a scenario and also automatically resets when all's clear.
2. A CID (Circuit Interrupt Device). Which, basically is a pressure valve AND is collocated with the PTC. It 'opens' the electrical path if an over-charge raises the internal cell pressure to 1000 kPa (145psi).
3. A Safety Vent. It's usually a hole at the bottom of the +ve post that releases gas (CO2, vaporized electrolyte and other combustive gasses) in the event of a rapid increase in cell pressure or a chemical malfunction.
4. A PCB (Protection Circuit Board). In addition to the above three internal safeguards, an external electronic protection circuit unit (looks like a round PCB) prevents the charge voltage of any cell from exceeding 4.30V. Furthermore, a fuse cuts the current if the skin temperature of any cell approaches 90°C (194°F). To prevent the battery from over-discharging, a control circuit cuts off the current path at about 2.20V/cell. It also resets automatically once the snag has been overcome.




NOTE: Unprotected batteries will have at least two (2) of the above protections, viz. the PTC and the Safety Vent. While a reputed manufacturer would also incorporate the CID. It'd then be called, "Safe Chemistry". But, I repeat 'but', they WILL NOT have the PCB. Which is the last & final protection level and IS ONLY available in the Protected Batteries.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remember, "Safe Chemistry" is just SAFE... but it's Not SAFEGUARDED. Which is why it definitely makes sense to place only "Protected" Li-Ion Batteries inside our Mech. Mods. Whatever mAh / size we may select. It is pertinent to also note here that every Mod retailer will always mention that in their listing, viz. "pls use only protected batteries with this mod".

So, will I divert? -Nah
 
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WinchellNomNom

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#19 just went live at vaportek usa.

The switch looks pretty damn good.

19sig2_zps26742e1e.jpg


19sig4_zpsb43a4ad0.jpg


19sig3_zps7738b2b8.jpg
 

TroyDestroy

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looks like the #19 has a slight slant to the top... more pics here:www.sigelei.com/goods.php?id=92 im hoping the #8 top cap will fit and really make a great looking device. I have both on the way as well as a #20, an AGI, RSST, igo-l, another AGA-T2... i have had a little impulse control over the last few days! well it was either this or stalking who knows how long for ONE hybrid
 
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Telescope Neil

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looks like the #19 has a slight slant to the top... more pics here:www.sigelei.com/goods.php?id=92 im hoping the #8 top cap will fit and really make a great looking device. I have both on the way as well as a #20, an AGI, RSST, igo-l, another AGA-T2... i have had a little impulse control over the last few days! well it was either this or stalking who knows how long for ONE hybrid

Can you please post some pictures of the #20 and the gennies you have when you get them? I'm tempted to get the #20, but the slightly raised 510 connection kinda holds me back. I could sand them down, but I still wanna see some pics before I get one.
 

WinchellNomNom

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Winchel I thought you had postedhow you did that to your mechs, but I can't seem to find the post. Did you use a power sander and the pieces that are golden, those are the original pieces? I've got my first mech, the #8 in the mail currently and what you've done to yours is amazing to me.

I use a stainless steel carto or a couple 510 adapters attached to my mod. I insert the carto or adapter into a drill and spin the mod while I sand and polish. Wall powered drills are better and can spin at a higher rpm. They are cheap and make the job quicker then say a dewalt cordless. I sand by hand with work gloves since the mod can get hot enough to sizzle when dipped in water. The heat depends on how fast and how tightly you grip with the sand paper.

220 grit, 600grit, 1000grit, 1500grit, 2000grit wet and dry sand paper in that order. I sand wet, and change grit after the entire mod has a consistent finish. I also change out my water container every grit since the particles left from the previous grit can scratch your finish. then i finish off with large blue bulk micro fiber cloths and mothers mag polish. Takes 30mins to an hour depending on the roughness of the metal and type of metal.

Clean the mod after polishing. I use a tooth brush and dish soap inside and out.

You dont need to use all the grades of sand paper I did. Its a choice.

The caps are plated brass. So after you sand off the plating you get the gold color of the brass.



Pictures:

Drill with 510 connection
20130416_154913_zpsb17e1908.jpg


Micro fiber bulk 24 pack home depot 8 bucks.
20130416_154934_zpse526c359.jpg


Automotive store sand paper and mag polish
20130416_155123_zpsc1a5c51a.jpg


Hand made Polishing wheels made with a drill socket for the larger one and a screw head post for the smaller one. These are for tight areas.
20130416_155220_zps33e6b657.jpg


What can I say. Im cheap. Costs about 2 or 3 bucks in materials to finish a mod.
 
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Bobee

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I have What batteries do you recommend I'm not completely sure about the ones I have. I have the original Samsung 18650 that came with my evic, and I have another 2200mah 18650 that I bought recently at a meet. Not so sure about the new one I bought it sucks to me. I'd have to look at what brand it is and what not. I've been reading all day and I want to be safe as I will probably be experimenting quite a bit with this first mech. Which would you recommend for the #8 at its smallest and largest? Thanks for your responses. The one's I have are: Samsung ICR18650 2600MAH and the other one just says CGR18650 and it's 2210mah iirc
 
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Rader2146

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Yes, u must.
Any mod which doesn't have some sort of originally manufactured protection system MUST be used with "protected batteries". And Mech. Mods r one such. It has nothing to safeguard us against probable/possible malfunctions... it's just a tube holding a powerful electric device(!), a very powerful one... yes 18650 is, it can blow our face off! And I'd definitely not want that time-bomb right on my face!

That said, most "unprotected batteries", at least the ones made by manufacturers worth their salt, will have some sort of protection, else they wouldn't offer them OTC (over-the-counter). However, it's not "fully" protected. See below:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A "protected battery" will typically be produced with the following four (4) protections:

1. A PTC (Pressure, Temp., Current) Switch. This protects the output of the battery against high-pressure, over temperature and unusual draw of current. It cut's-off the output in such a scenario and also automatically resets when all's clear.
2. A CID (Circuit Interrupt Device). Which, basically is a pressure valve AND is collocated with the PTC. It 'opens' the electrical path if an over-charge raises the internal cell pressure to 1000 kPa (145psi).
3. A Safety Vent. It's usually a hole at the bottom of the +ve post that releases gas (CO2, vaporized electrolyte and other combustive gasses) in the event of a rapid increase in cell pressure or a chemical malfunction.
4. A PCB (Protection Circuit Board). In addition to the above three internal safeguards, an external electronic protection circuit unit (looks like a round PCB) prevents the charge voltage of any cell from exceeding 4.30V. Furthermore, a fuse cuts the current if the skin temperature of any cell approaches 90°C (194°F). To prevent the battery from over-discharging, a control circuit cuts off the current path at about 2.20V/cell. It also resets automatically once the snag has been overcome.




NOTE: Unprotected batteries will have at least two (2) of the above protections, viz. the PTC and the Safety Vent. While a reputed manufacturer would also incorporate the CID. It'd then be called, "Safe Chemistry". But, I repeat 'but', they WILL NOT have the PCB. Which is the last & final protection level and IS ONLY available in the Protected Batteries.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remember, "Safe Chemistry" is just SAFE... but it's Not SAFEGUARDED. Which is why it definitely makes sense to place only "Protected" Li-Ion Batteries inside our Mech. Mods. Whatever mAh / size we may select. It is pertinent to also note here that every Mod retailer will always mention that in their listing, viz. "pls use only protected batteries with this mod".

So, will I divert? -Nah

There is a fundamental misunderstanding of "protected" batteries. Protection circuits are used on ICR batteries because they are inherently dangerous and not at all tolerant of abuse. Protection circuits are used to limit the danger and prohibit abuse. Protection doesnt make the battery less dangerous (it can still cause the same amount of damage/harm), just less likely to have a catastrophic failure. "Safe Chemistry", aka IMR batteries, are less dangerous and much more tolerant to abuse. In the event of catastrophic failure, they discharge (vent) hot gases instead of flames and burning bits of battery guts. They dont need circuit interrupt because they are tolerant of high current discharge. The battery might be damaged, but the probability of you being harmed is negligible, especially when compared to an ICR. A CID is not what makes a battery "Safe Chemistry", a device does not change the chemistry of the battery. Chemisty is LiCoO2 or LiMn2O4.

In the days of <1.0Ω RBA's, discharge current plays a HUGE role in selecting batteries. As the user you MUST know what stresses that you will be subjecting your batteries to, and you MUST know whether your batteries are capable of safely delivering the requirements. Protected ICR batteries are a very poor choice for sub-1Ω coils. Most protection circuits leave a buffer between the max recommended discharge current and the cutoff current. Meaning that a battery that is rated for 5 amp discharge might not cutoff until 8 amps, or in poorly matched "cheapest bidder" circuits it could be 10 amps. If the user doesnt know the difference he/she could be abusing (remember that ICR's don't like abuse) the "protected" battery thinking that it is okay since the circuit didn't cutoff the current.

It all boils down to there is no "blanket" answer to the "which battery should I use?" question. The user must know the requirements of their setup and choose a battery that will satisfy those requirements. But for those that dont have the knowledge, or the desire to gain said knowledge, IMR is the standard of choice. You might sacrifice a little capacity but you gain safety and ease of use. In high current setups like a low-Ω mech mod or a single battery VV/WW mod...IMR is a MUST. Many retailers and manufactures "worth their salt" will echo the same thing for good reason.
 
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Bobee

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I'd absolutely love to be well versed on these things Rader, but I'm a tad new to the mech scene. Yes, I have plans to experiment with low ohm coils, but no I don't want to blow any body parts off. I'd be curious to know as much as possible, if you'd kindly direct me to the topics that should be of interest and usefulness? iGoogle, but I'm not exactly sure what I should be searching for..
 
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