Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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Oktyabr

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I think the 13 is way better construction than the CCTS but you can't use a kick with the 13 very easily. I have both by the way as well as the 8 and like the sigelei's more.

Thanks for the answer! I have a #19 on order already and planned on ordering a CCTS today. When you say "can't use a kick with the 13 very easily" does that mean *impossible* without a bunch of retooling? I really have no desire to run a kick in anything but I am still curious about options...
 

Lhartman89

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Could you cancel your order? lol

Thanks for the answer! I have a #19 on order already and planned on ordering a CCTS today. When you say "can't use a kick with the 13 very easily" does that mean *impossible* without a bunch of retooling? I really have no desire to run a kick in anything but I am still curious about options...

The ID is bigger than the kick so it would take some shimming and the inside is not smooth so it would probably take some sanding to get it to make proper connection. I don't even use the kick because 1. it seems to stop working after a few kits because of the stupid 3.7v cutoff and 2. because I use rba's for the most part with sub 1 ohm coils. But when I would use my 3.0 ohm cartos like I said it would cutoff on me on a full battery. I am actually thinking about putting it in the classifieds and getting rid of it as it is basically a $45 paper weight for me lol.
 
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calpis

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The 2 out of 2 chichi's I've tried so far have hot button issues. I fixed one of them by ripping the spring out which had corrosion on it that cause the button to get hot. I have one more I haven't tried but I feel like I'd come to the same outcome.

I have 2 Sig8's and one has a soft spring in the button and the other has a hard one. The hard one still fires but requires about 2-3x the force to push than the soft one.
 

Lhartman89

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I have found out on my #8 that I have to unscrew the bottom cap a little to make proper contact and I have to unscrew the button head from the "switch" post and loctite it to make it stay in place. I found that if I have it tightened down all the way it won't make proper contact.

On my CCTS I have been having the hot button issue on my RSST but not my AGA-T2. I think there is a short somewhere causing the hot button.
 

qorax

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At that price get both.

Wow. Nice price. Ordered a 13 and 19.

I believe #13 being similar to #8 (button wise) I should go with #19 (another type of button, 'miracle' is it?). Anyone has an idea how do u lock that button? The bottom fired one of #19.
 

Oktyabr

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I believe #13 being similar to #8 (button wise) I should go with #19 (another type of button, 'miracle' is it?). Anyone has an idea how do u lock that button? The bottom fired one of #19.

The #19 rather looks like the Nzonic, another bottom button with a magnetic button. Here is hoping the 19 works just as well!
The Nzonic V1 by Madz Modz - YouTube
 

qorax

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The #19 rather looks like the Nzonic, another bottom button with a magnetic button. Here is hoping the 19 works just as well!
The Nzonic V1 by Madz Modz - YouTube

Hey Thanx, Oktyabr!
I see that the #19 also has that "ring" at the bottom, like the Nzonic V1. So, that'd probably be used to lock/unlock the firing button.
 

Oktyabr

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Hey Thanx, Oktyabr!
I see that the #19 also has that "ring" at the bottom, like the Nzonic V1. So, that'd probably be used to lock/unlock the firing button.

Your welcome! :)

Yeah, the #19 definitely looks like a very close copy. I'm hoping the same thing about that bottom ring.

(Still looking for a #20 too!)
 

qorax

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Anyone know rhe probability of the #13 top cap fitting on the #19? I like the #19 but dont like the slanted top, so I bought a #13 hoping I can use the top cap. If not I guess I will sell them.

Yep, me too. I believe it does... I remember someone earlier mentioning that all parts r interchangeable with these Sig. Mech. Mods.
 
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