Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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Oktyabr

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Love that sticker Oktyabr :)

I have a thing for all stainless so the #8 has been put off for some time. But you folks are really making me think about snagging one.

I actually don't mind the chromed brass end caps on my #8. And I think the tubes are actually of thicker walled stainless steel than the #19!
 

NGAHaze

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Yes, But its chromed or plated with something. Folks remove the plating and polish them.

Thanks! I thought that was the case but wanted to make sure ... I'm really tempted to get one of those too!

I only have the 19, so far, and I like it but it does misfire occasionally and the button is a little wonky. I've not done any of the suggested mods on it yet; don't have the spring or brass bolts.

I really like the 20 too, just wish the center post was adjustable on it ... I'll probably pick one up anyway because it's so slick looking.

This is proving to be an expensive hobby yet at the prices for these mods, I still feel like I'm getting a great deal!
 
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I'm just as impressed with my #8 as I am my new Provari mini. Got both today in my vapemail.

The #8 is solid and well built for a $25 mod, great buy...mine has the SEGELEI STAMP on it too.


provari002.jpg
 

XfooYen

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Pretty much done modding the #19. I did the usual fixes posted here. I sanded down the top cap flush (I left a 1mm chamfer because it looks nice). I added new air slits in the 510 connector so tanks like the Ody and attys can get air flow. I put a slot in the positive pin to improve atty air flow and allow pin adjustment without removing the cap. I removed the bottom magnet, tapped the switch with 8-32 threading and placed a brass bolt in there. I fixed the button throw to about 2mm with a Delrin washer under the switch. I replaced the spring with a re-wound hot spring and lined the Delrin insulator with copper tape which goes into the threading ( I may replace this fix with a custom cut piece of brass sheeting as the copper is very thin and may tear over time).

The coloring is from holding the parts over a kitchen stove and turning it evenly until the desired color is achieved. If you allow the metal to glow red, you will get a mottled purple and dark bronze coloring. I just slowly heated it so I got a mostly even bronzed effect. If you don't like the result, you can sand off the finish and start the process over. I like.

Sigerlei19TorchedAGAT22_zps30b10972.jpg~original
 

CountSmackula

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Pretty much done modding the #19. I did the usual fixes posted here. I sanded down the top cap flush (I left a 1mm chamfer because it looks nice). I added new air slits in the 510 connector so tanks like the Ody and attys can get air flow. I put a slot in the positive pin to improve atty air flow and allow pin adjustment without removing the cap. I removed the bottom magnet, tapped the switch with 8-32 threading and placed a brass bolt in there. I fixed the button throw to about 2mm with a Delrin washer under the switch. I replaced the spring with a re-wound hot spring and lined the Delrin insulator with copper tape which goes into the threading ( I may replace this fix with a custom cut piece of brass sheeting as the copper is very thin and may tear over time).

The coloring is from holding the parts over a kitchen stove and turning it evenly until the desired color is achieved. If you allow the metal to glow red, you will get a mottled purple and dark bronze coloring. I just slowly heated it so I got a mostly even bronzed effect. If you don't like the result, you can sand off the finish and start the process over. I like.

Sigerlei19TorchedAGAT22_zps30b10972.jpg~original

I really like the flamed color!
 

XfooYen

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Whats the point of that really? I'm cool with the 510 connection myself. Looks like if your not careful you have the potential for a short there. Maybe I'm not seeing something right.

That's what the Delrin spacer is for; to prevent shorts. The mod eliminates a point of contact (actually two) in the circuit. Less points of contact = less vdrop.
 
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