Sigelei Mechnical Mods

[Bobee]

As long as you get ALL connection points Clean you should be Fine. Remember, this includes Tube to head threading.

Yes I cleaned EVERYTHING. It is still very likely that the end of the firing pin still isn't completely flat causing the button to heat.

 

[Bobee]

Don't use loctite or glue on the threads, it's not conductive. After you clean the threads install the switch housing into the tube either clean or with a a little anti-corrosion lube on the threads and tighten it as best you can without buggering up the switch housing. The current path goes from the switch pin through the switch housing through the threads to the tube body. When I push the switch button down to fire I also push the button to the side a little to force the switch pin against the small hole it slides in to try to get better (tighter) contact between the switch pin and the switch housing..
.

So to retighten the button then my only options are to obtain some very small washers or nuts. I'm wondering what the heck it was locked into place with in the first place...before I removed it that is.

 

[forg1vn]

So to retighten the button then my only options are to obtain some very small washers or nuts. I'm wondering what the heck it was locked into place with in the first place...before I removed it that is.

with some good ol thread and friction...

i just tighten my 13a button down with a needle nose, give it a tiny bit of force past hand tight and it doesn't ever get loose...

 

[Datalux]

SWITCH MOD IDEA:

Looks to me like an Allen head screw of proper length could be Tapped into the top to replace the center pin.
Matched Diameter to the bottom pin and a reasonable GAP allowed
Firing pin contacts upper/lower pins to Fire
Allen adjustment to fine tune for center contact Variances.
Loose Delron Washer and install 510 from bottom before assembling head.

Flush 510 and adjustable pin

Wish I had a spare head to try this out

I was thinking the same thing - same diameter pins and the switch makes contact with both posts completing the circuit....

Are the upper and lower pins threaded or friction fit?

 

[Bobee]

Fingers cross, there was some loctite still left under the brim on the middle part of the button. Got all of it off, and everything seems to be perfect now. I'm going to have to find something to put under the button assembly. Whether it be a nut or small washer, because the button is very loose now unfortunately. :/

 

[peejoe]

i just notice on my #19 there is a little spark on the bottom firing switch, everytime i fire it. is there anyone have the same problem on their firing switch?

 

[crxess]

I was thinking the same thing - same diameter pins and the switch makes contact with both posts completing the circuit....

Are the upper and lower pins threaded or friction fit?

Right now, friction - should be simple to tap out

Fingers cross, there was some loctite still left under the brim on the middle part of the button. Got all of it off, and everything seems to be perfect now. I'm going to have to find something to put under the button assembly. Whether it be a nut or small washer, because the button is very loose now unfortunately. :/

Hope all works out. Sounds like the threads are almost stripped(stretched) Go the inside Nut route for best results and look.

 

[Bmays]

I was thinking the same thing - same diameter pins and the switch makes contact with both posts completing the circuit....

Are the upper and lower pins threaded or friction fit?

I did this already on mine and I am vaping at as I type this.

It works quite well, but I am still seeing voltage drop. Cant really put my finger on it so I just vape it.

 

[d9mel]

Got an aluminum hybrid plate today(Bap your the man!) And decided to follow studios lead with bypassing the spring. I already had the brass strips in, so I tinned them and soldered in a piece of high end 20ga that I use for my DNA mods.

On a 4.13v Panasonic cgr with a 0.7 ohm coil I got 3.8-3.85v under load. The only reason why I'm trying to increase efficiency To this extent is so that I can run 18500's and get descent battery life.

Satisfied

 

[Bobee]

Right now, friction - should be simple to tap out



Hope all works out. Sounds like the threads are almost stripped(stretched) Go the inside Nut route for best results and look.

Yep, sounds best. Home depot in the morn Now to decide on my next Sigelei!!

 

[kwalka]

Here's my 13 with an RSST. I modified the base and used Fusion mods SG-1 Hybrid kit. It took about a half hour.

 

[Bmays]

How do you like the dual air holes kwalka? I feel like mine (1/16) hits the wick too low right now.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[tincbtrar]

Just to add...have 2 #8's now...why? Who knows. Wait, I know. Hands down the best budget mech out there.

Sanded contacts and such. Have no desire to purchase anything non mech right now.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk HD

 

[Lhartman89]

For anyone who is still waiting on your #19 from Exhale Vapors, Abe is now offering the 19B head for an extra $5. Just figured I would let everyone know that doesn't have facebook. He will be posting info on their facebook page tomorrow on how to get it. He will be selling them to everyone else for $8 plus shipping also. They will fit the #8 and #13.

https://www.exhalevapors.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3414

Facebook Page:

http://www.facebook.com/electroniccigarettesexhalevapors

 

[TheSystemHasFailed]

I am looking at a 90$ mech right now, and the only thing keeping me from all these awesome looking Sigeleis is the fact they have to be modded.

May I please have a list, from a lot of modding, down to none, of the models I should buy? And they have to be in stock/ not one 1000 people want and beat me to the cart...

Modding I don't mind, I love tinkering, but are these modifications much more than sanding? Or, at the least, the parts I might need to replace, are they common/no machining?

Please talk me out of paying 90$ for one mod. It's worth it..but you know.

 

[SikVapor]

The 8 and 13a dont need anything imo, sanding if you are a member of the voltage drop police. 19 needs a lot done to it, 20 needs a spring fix.

 

[Bobee]

Where can I find a cheap 13a? Think that's what I'm headed to next. I agree to an extent about the number 8. It was perfect when I first got it...but then once I dipped into the SLR realm I ran into a hot button issue :/. I love my number 8 though it's a beast!

 

[Widowmaker_]

What's very loose now, just the button (the part your finger pushes on to fire) or the whole switch assembly after it's installed into the tube? Does the switch assembly get snug when you install it in the tube? I have to ask that because sometimes people call the whole assembly as the button.

Fingers cross, there was some loctite still left under the brim on the middle part of the button. Got all of it off, and everything seems to be perfect now. I'm going to have to find something to put under the button assembly. Whether it be a nut or small washer, because the button is very loose now unfortunately. :/

 

[Widowmaker_]

Oktyabr set up a thread just for the Sig #19. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/420420-sigelei-19-tips-tricks-donts.html

i just notice on my #19 there is a little spark on the bottom firing switch, everytime i fire it. is there anyone have the same problem on their firing switch?

 

[studiovap]

Finally got round to stage two of the #19 Modding.
Shaved down top 510 cap as much as possible, created gentle bevel for 22mm RSST, sanded and polished all joins flush (except the telescope opening which received a slight bevel for comfort in 18500 and 18650 modes)and all parts to 1000grit semi high gloss finish and cut spring down for a lighter action, but still strong enough to set down without the need for the locking ring who's duty is now clamping the copper wire for the switch mod.
I likey