Which spring do i look for? It just so happens that I'm about to make an order from there.
Thanks.
I wonder if FT has a gold plated or copper or brass replacement spring for the 19 as well.
Last edited:
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
- Thread starter pillowking
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Which spring do i look for? It just so happens that I'm about to make an order from there.
Thanks.
I wonder if FT has a gold plated or copper or brass replacement spring for the 19 as well.
I don't remember really, I just ordered all of the gold played springs they had and one happened to fit after widening the base a little
So everything went well?I don't remember really, I just ordered all of the gold played springs they had and one happened to fit after widening the base a little
Check this out, wonder if it would fit the 19 http://myvape.in/shop/index.php/mod...nd-acc/airborne-telescope-bottom-upgrade.html
One trick I found for the #19 (besides slightly widening the spring for better contact) is putting a brass washer between the lock and the top part of the switch. I did this while investigating possible replacements for the factory delrin "cup". This improves conductivity enormously but unfortunately doesn't work with the factory cup as it screws too far down into the switch to make the washer possible.
...And better conductivity. Is that brass piece the top cap that you modded (cut in half) to make the hybrid? I forget if it was you or someone else who did that.
Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it shouldn't be bling and shinny
Last edited:
That is a way better design than the one you folks were talkind about earlier for order. That looks very safe. I didn't trust that other one. Is that your own design Bap?
To be honest IDK for sure.....the pitch is 1.0 but the diameters are screwy....certain parts fit between the 19 and 20 but others don't....the treading is all over the place and most threads are squared off and fairly incomplete.
I'm pretty sure this particular location is supposed to be 21.5mm x 1.0, but I would get one to test fit and measure.
I have a lathe so I can accommodate some weirdness.
The first ones I made out of aluminum and I matched the thread diameter of the original top cap. Then I destroyed my 19 tele tubes in the lathe trying to get cute with a chamfer and caught a tool. So I sent it to d9mel and it didn't last long.
I salvaged a portion of my 19 tube to test fit the new adapter and it ended up at 21.4 OD.
That was me and I actually used a spare bottom cap I had to make mine. I didn't want to mess up my top cap an not have anything to use.
It's not really safer. I had to use a piece of rubber to keep the neg post form the RBA from also touching the pos post on the battery. I had it happen once and when I pressed the button my whole mod got really hot really quick.
My hot button #8 issue has come back to haunt me. I swear I've tried everything and I'm about fed up with it...Has anyone had this issue with SLR? I've taken the assembly apart so many times sanded the inside of the cup and lips of the cup, sanded the firing pin completely down cleaned everything including every thread on the mod itself. I'm so annoyed and baffled at this. Anyone come upon a button replacement tactic for the #8? It's absolutely not the coil, because it works just fine on my buddy's smoketech tele.
bapgood, you should make a piece that replaces the bottom of the rsst completely and has the threading for the #19. i would buy that in a heartbeat. so far the sg-1 works great but i cant get over the tiny OD difference on the 19. is the terminator 23mm?
Last edited:
Have you tried using some noalox or ox-gard or similar? I do all my threads with Ox-Gard and the last time I had my switch apart I filled the tube where the spring goes with it too. Hits like a champ!
I use my #8 with a 0.9-1.0 ohm dripper, no hot button and it hits nice.
Did you solder the switch into the tube yet? If that's still loose you'll get a hot button, especially at SLR. You may have also sanded the switch pin and spring cup/post too much to where it makes just enough contact to fire but not a tight enough contact to handle the higher current of SLR.
One way to check this is to (make sure that the lock ring is screwed all the way towards the tube) press the button and you should be able to see daylight between the bottom of the SS button and the switch housing. Another way to check is to slide a piece of paper between the bottom of the SS button and the switch housing then press the button and the paper should slide out easily. And do what Oktyabr said to do with the noalox.
Did you solder the switch into the tube yet? If that's still loose you'll get a hot button, especially at SLR. You may have also sanded the switch pin and spring cup/post too much to where it makes just enough contact to fire but not a tight enough contact to handle the higher current of SLR.
One way to check this is to (make sure that the lock ring is screwed all the way towards the tube) press the button and you should be able to see daylight between the bottom of the SS button and the switch housing. Another way to check is to slide a piece of paper between the bottom of the SS button and the switch housing then press the button and the paper should slide out easily. And do what Oktyabr said to do with the noalox.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
