Very nice....
Or perhaps even less? I got an #8 from Aquavapor recently on special for $23.96 delivered to my door. You know fasttech can beat that by another 10%
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Very nice....
Or perhaps even less? I got an #8 from Aquavapor recently on special for $23.96 delivered to my door. You know fasttech can beat that by another 10%
My #30 arrived today. It's a nice little unit IMO, I really like it. Fits nice in the hand and very solid. Makes great contact with no electrical loss. Now I can't wait for my #19b to show up.
Anyone else have this mod?
Anyone else have this mod?
I just talked to someone who requested the SVD, it took them only a week to list it on their site and they have the svd for 40 bucks, that is insane. How they make money I don't knowVery nice....
Or perhaps even less? I got an #8 from Aquavapor recently on special for $23.96 delivered to my door. You know fasttech can beat that by another 10%
1st and foremost im not tech savvy so if you care to explain try to keep it in simple terms thx.
Mech mod is a Sig 20 with a 3.7 volt panny battery (multimeter tested avg at 3.7 volts)
Atty is an RSST 28 gauge 2/3 wrap on oxidized 500 stainless steel mesh running at 0.9ohms
when i attached the Sig20 with the RSST i get 2.17 volts, from the original 3.7 volts, thats a 1.53 voltage drop whats going on and how do i fix this?
Mech mod is a Sig 20 with a 3.7 volt panny battery (multimeter tested avg at 3.7 volts)
Atty is an RSST 28 gauge 2/3 wrap on oxidized 500 stainless steel mesh running at 0.9ohms
when i attached the Sig20 with the RSST i get 2.17 volts, from the original 3.7 volts, thats a 1.53 voltage drop whats going on and how do i fix this?
If its a v1 have you replaced the spring for a hot spring
Nice to see the exploded view of the #20 switch head. If I ever need to service it, it will be a great reference.
My question is, after giving the center pin a polish on both sides, is there any reason to disassemble it, short of a problem? Is it - "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"?, or is there something to be gained that I missed?
My question is, after giving the center pin a polish on both sides, is there any reason to disassemble it, short of a problem? Is it - "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"?, or is there something to be gained that I missed?
I am thinking about getting a 20 and am wondering if anyone has successfully made the connection flush. If so, instructions on how to would be wonderful. How big a pain in the rear was it?
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
I'm looking to get another #8, I know they updated the spring on a recent run, but I remember seeing something about a future revision without any chromed brass on the contacts. Anyone heard more, or manage to get one from a US vendor, or are they still shipping the chromed jobs?
Sorry for the long post.. I wish ECF would allow
tags
I decided to try my hand at polishing, my Sig#8 is my first attempt at it. I still have some work to do on the end caps and the tube is not perfect but for a first go at it I am quite pleased with the results Unfortunately this isn't a show-off post. I gummed up my switch threading pretty bad when I first removed it and was unable to screw it back into place tight. I could screw it into the hole.. and through it so the switch was in but loose in the hole.
So after I got the tube polished I secured the button, assuming JBWeld is conductive (derp). I put a tiny bead of it under the flange, screwed it into place, cleaned up the small amount of excess and shaped it then held it for a few minutes while it set. Left it alone overnight and it's incredibly solid. I know I know now I can't remove the button but I didn't really care much as I figured it's cheap and will serve it's purpose a good while after I've gotten $30 worth of use out of it. Well now it looks pretty cool and the switch is nice and steady but it won't fire. JBWeld, at least the quick curing kind I used, is NOT conductive at all.
You can see the gap under the button in the pic below, it is making contact with the post. To verify this I even held a piece of copper wire against the switch and body while firing it and got the mod to fire. I've tried a few hair brained inexperienced ideas to complete this circuit inside the tube but I don't see how to go about fixing this now that the button is welded into place.
Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I decided to try my hand at polishing, my Sig#8 is my first attempt at it. I still have some work to do on the end caps and the tube is not perfect but for a first go at it I am quite pleased with the results
Unfortunately this isn't a show-off post. I gummed up my switch threading pretty bad when I first removed it and was unable to screw it back into place tight. I could screw it into the hole.. and through it so the switch was in but loose in the hole.So after I got the tube polished I secured the button, assuming JBWeld is conductive (derp). I put a tiny bead of it under the flange, screwed it into place, cleaned up the small amount of excess and shaped it then held it for a few minutes while it set. Left it alone overnight and it's incredibly solid. I know I know now I can't remove the button but I didn't really care much as I figured it's cheap and will serve it's purpose a good while after I've gotten $30 worth of use out of it. Well now it looks pretty cool and the switch is nice and steady but it won't fire. JBWeld, at least the quick curing kind I used, is NOT conductive at all.
You can see the gap under the button in the pic below, it is making contact with the post. To verify this I even held a piece of copper wire against the switch and body while firing it and got the mod to fire. I've tried a few hair brained inexperienced ideas to complete this circuit inside the tube but I don't see how to go about fixing this now that the button is welded into place.
Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the long post.. I wish ECF would allowtags
I decided to try my hand at polishing, my Sig#8 is my first attempt at it. I still have some work to do on the end caps and the tube is not perfect but for a first go at it I am quite pleased with the results
So after I got the tube polished I secured the button, assuming JBWeld is conductive (derp). I put a tiny bead of it under the flange, screwed it into place, cleaned up the small amount of excess and shaped it then held it for a few minutes while it set. Left it alone overnight and it's incredibly solid. I know I know now I can't remove the button but I didn't really care much as I figured it's cheap and will serve it's purpose a good while after I've gotten $30 worth of use out of it. Well now it looks pretty cool and the switch is nice and steady but it won't fire. JBWeld, at least the quick curing kind I used, is NOT conductive at all.
You can see the gap under the button in the pic below, it is making contact with the post. To verify this I even held a piece of copper wire against the switch and body while firing it and got the mod to fire. I've tried a few hair brained inexperienced ideas to complete this circuit inside the tube but I don't see how to go about fixing this now that the button is welded into place.
Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Unscrew the button head from the firing pin until it fires then use some loctite to set it in place?
the button is making contact, that's not the problem (if it was I wouldn't have been able to complete the circuit by holding copper wire to the lock ring and the tube and there would be no gap between the button and the lock ring when it is pressed). The problem is the JBWeld is insulating the switch assembly from the tube.
Yeah I would imagine it will stand up to heat pretty well, but what do I know.. I thought the stuff was conductive
I may try to break the seal and remove the switch. I am hoping to find a way to connect the switch threading on the inside to the inside of the tube without removing the switch again.
Can you put solder on the inside from threads to body? May take a hand held torch to heat the inside enough unless you have a really good iron.
Sorry for the long post.. I wish ECF would allowtags
I decided to try my hand at polishing, my Sig#8 is my first attempt at it. I still have some work to do on the end caps and the tube is not perfect but for a first go at it I am quite pleased with the results
So after I got the tube polished I secured the button, assuming JBWeld is conductive (derp). I put a tiny bead of it under the flange, screwed it into place, cleaned up the small amount of excess and shaped it then held it for a few minutes while it set. Left it alone overnight and it's incredibly solid. I know I know now I can't remove the button but I didn't really care much as I figured it's cheap and will serve it's purpose a good while after I've gotten $30 worth of use out of it. Well now it looks pretty cool and the switch is nice and steady but it won't fire. JBWeld, at least the quick curing kind I used, is NOT conductive at all.
You can see the gap under the button in the pic below, it is making contact with the post. To verify this I even held a piece of copper wire against the switch and body while firing it and got the mod to fire. I've tried a few hair brained inexperienced ideas to complete this circuit inside the tube but I don't see how to go about fixing this now that the button is welded into place.
Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
JBWeld doesn't melt easily if at all, I've used it on exhaust manifolds. Your best fix is probably to either use some conductive glue or solder the switch housing to the inside of the tube. Soldering is better but the glue is easier...
Sand the chrome off of a section of the threads of the switch housing in the inside of the tube then glue or solder it to the inside of the tube using electronics solder (good) or silver solder (better). You only need to glue or solder a section of the threads to the tube to make a good electrical connection. You should be able to get solder or conductive glue at a RadioShack.
Sand the chrome off of a section of the threads of the switch housing in the inside of the tube then glue or solder it to the inside of the tube using electronics solder (good) or silver solder (better). You only need to glue or solder a section of the threads to the tube to make a good electrical connection. You should be able to get solder or conductive glue at a RadioShack.
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Firstly soldering stainless steel tube is impossible with normal solder as the surface of ss will not bond with the solder and will repel it. Silver solder needs higher temp and may work but would still be extremely difficult. Secondly JB weld has a temp limit of around 500deg before it breaks down, so a pocket torch or chef torch would make quick work of it at over 1000deg. Heating the stainless tube to any of these temps, soldering or torching will discolor the surface and it will need sanding and repolishing. I did find this:
"Did this friend of yours use JB Weld or JB Quick? JB Quick disolves in acetone from my experience. I use it on all of my minis with no issue. Regular JB Weld, however, i have no experience with."on a car forum, might be the least destructive option. After you have the switch out clean off the chrome and heat up the brass threads and put a few tiny drops of solder onto them and spread the solder round the threads to tighten them up for when you later reinsert the switch. If you get to much solder on there use some copper wire heated with the iron or torch to pull the solder back off.
"Did this friend of yours use JB Weld or JB Quick? JB Quick disolves in acetone from my experience. I use it on all of my minis with no issue. Regular JB Weld, however, i have no experience with."on a car forum, might be the least destructive option. After you have the switch out clean off the chrome and heat up the brass threads and put a few tiny drops of solder onto them and spread the solder round the threads to tighten them up for when you later reinsert the switch. If you get to much solder on there use some copper wire heated with the iron or torch to pull the solder back off.
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Vaportekusa had them on sale, i think i bought the last two last night..
price was $32.99
with discount code ........ which is a 5% discount i got them for $33.92 each shipped.
bought 2
Sigelei Mod #19b with "Nzonic Clone" Top Cap
"This is the Sigelei #19b constructed of solid stainless steel. It has a magnetic button and top cap is loaded with a hot spring!! This is the imporved version of the first #19 fully magnetic telescopic mod! We have vaped very briefly before we put up and we are blowing clouds of vapor!!"
Sigelei #19b - APV's and MOD's by VaporTek USA
price was $32.99
with discount code ........ which is a 5% discount i got them for $33.92 each shipped.
bought 2
Sigelei Mod #19b with "Nzonic Clone" Top Cap
"This is the Sigelei #19b constructed of solid stainless steel. It has a magnetic button and top cap is loaded with a hot spring!! This is the imporved version of the first #19 fully magnetic telescopic mod! We have vaped very briefly before we put up and we are blowing clouds of vapor!!"
Sigelei #19b - APV's and MOD's by VaporTek USA
^^^youre the one that took em! haha i was gunna buy one last night but was super tired so i told myself id do it first thing in the AM. SELL ME ONE pleeeeeeeeeeeeease! haha
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