Smok al85 getting to hot to touch

[Eskie]

never mind

 

[Eskie]

OK, I'll try this again. I can't do it with Smok's nomenclature for coils because it confuses the hell out of me.

The BB comes with a Q2 0.4 ohm coil as stock. It's supposed to be a "dual coil" because it has two wires in parallel, which is cheating to me but whatever. There is an X4 coil that comes with the BBB which is a 0.15 ohm coil. In my recent experience, that lower ohm coil in the BBB gets the tank pretty hot if chain vaping, even at only 50W, and the side of the battery cap definitely heats up as well.

I've started using that 0.4 ohm Q2 coil in the BBB and find it stays much cooler, even with chain vaping. I believe this is because there is "less metal mass" than the 8 coil (4 dual parallel coils), lower ohm coil. I use the 0.4 ohm at 40W with comfy warm enough vape for me, excellent flavor, and longer lasting on juice and battery life. I would expect that behavior to be even more pronounced suing the 0.15 ohm coil in the smaller BB.

 

[bwh79]

I will tell you the exact reason why it's happening and why there it nothing to do about.
I use to have other mini mods before the AL 85 and I notice they have some holes in the bottom of the battery place in order to provide a good airflow, Wich the AL85 is lack of. That means there is no air provided to cool the battery down.

Thanks, but I'm pretty sure that's not the issue, here. If the battery itself were generating as much heat as I felt, something would be seriously wrong. And if it was happening because lack of venting* gave the heat "nowhere to go," then cinching the battery cap on tighter wouldn't make it go away. I'm 99% certain that it's because of poor connection (and less certain, but I think that it's because this reduced conductivity/introduced additional resistance at that point?) at the threads of the battery cap.

*(Besides, if you put your lips to the battery compartment and blow, you'll find it has plenty of venting. However this is not primarily for the purpose of air-cooling the battery cell, but a safety feature to allow the release of pressure in case of a battery venting incident. Which is something that should not occur in the first place, but if it does happen, the last place you want it to be is inside an enclosed metal box where the pressure might build up to the point of structural failure and essentially become a shrapnel bomb. Hence, vent holes are required on tube mechs which otherwise are essentially just metal pipes with the ends capped off aka "pipe bombs", while box mods and regulated devices generally have sufficient venting through the internals and/or battery door. Yeah, the device will be toast, but I wouldn't want to continue to use a device that allowed an incident to occur in the first place, so I would probably scrap it at that point anyway.)

 

[bwh79]

It's supposed to be a "dual coil" because it has two wires in parallel, which is cheating to me but whatever.

Well, technically they are the same. Ignoring for a moment my mad MS Paint skillz, but there's really no difference between this circuit:

...and this one:

They might behave differently thermally, but electrically they are essentially the same circuit. And when it's all crammed inside a tiny coil head, I don't think the thermal differences will be all that much, either.

In any case, I'm using mine with an RDA that, admittedly, does get pretty warm, but what I felt was not just heat transfer from the atomizer. It got real hot, real fast, it happened on the far side of the battery cap, away from the atomizer (for all I know it happened all over, but that's where my finger was so that's where I felt it), and it cooled down almost as quickly as it heated up while the RDA stays hot (as much as it does get hot) for minutes. This warmth does spread from the RDA base to the device top, battery cap, and even a little bit to the battery itself over time, but again, this is altogether different from what I experienced with the un-tightened battery cap. AND, it got better when I screwed the cap down tighter, so...I guess you can make your own conclusions, but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

 

[Ryan Lane-Lutter]

I have this happen to me when my battery gets low (18650 2500mAh 3.7V SAMSUNG SD1 green battery). It shows that I have a half battery left but when I hit the button I get the low battery warning. If I press on the top of the battery cap I can get a pull off it for a while. I had just started using the 4 ohm coils and am running it at 60W (5.2V at 13.2 AMPS). Weird thing is if my thumb catches it I get a super quick hot burn similar to hitting the edge of a fry pan. Weird thing is that when I apply pressure the cap stops getting hot and pulls fine. I almost think that there is some kind of mechanical gap that is arcing. Greater the gap the hotter the arc? I guess it could just be that these batteries may just be a mm or two short?

 

[stols001]

It's hard to tell with these mods, and it could be the mod, I guess, but since it's fairly clear that the batteries you are using are sub-par, I'd try a different battery first. If that doesn't fix things, then I might start trouble-shooting the mod, though it sounds like you have done that a bit already. Try to get a better battery in there in time to test it while the warranty is still in place, so if necessary, you can send it in for repair/replace if needed. Though certainly, some of the other ideas in this thread may have merit, and be worth trying, as well...

Best of luck!

Anna

 

[Baditude]

Mxjo imr 18650
3000mah
3.7v 35a


Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded) Battery?

• Learn what a rewrap cell is. If you are using rebranded cell, does that mean it is inferior, poor quality, or even dangerous? Which batteries are suspected to be rebranded batteries.

 

[JinVE]

The box touts this product's "innovative top battery cover design". Mine was bought yesterday and I just burned my finger on the cap. Tightening the cap made the problem go away. Not sure if I should try to return it now before it gets worse, but IMO this is a design flaw.