Smok rsbt ii

[350ZMO]

From Madvapes.

It has a fixed 510 center pin.

I really like the air flow slots in the deck. Huge juice channels too. Takes same build as Silverplay only a whole lot easier to fill being top fill stock. Since this pic I rebuilt using 14 wraps per side of 28 gauge Ni200 3mm. Given the slotted air hole, the entire coil length is getting air as opposed to one round hole in the center. Sustaining all 40W of the DNA40 just like the Silverplay with fewer wraps.

Slots in side of the SS protective sleeve are easier to see juice level than the Delta II but still needs to be more of them or wider.

Glass tank edges are polished. Thick tank but better clearance to chimney sides than the GT II. Sleeve is a tight fit.

As loud as the Delta II and others on draw due to massive air flow and slotted air intakes. Not a whistle just air inrush.

Even though the chimney top diameter is smaller than the Silverplay, draw is very unrestrictive. About the same as the Delta II with RBA cartridge and Melo with BVC cartridge. Which are less restrictive than the Lemo. Silverplay is less restrictive of all but not by much compared to this.

I put washers under the screws to limit the travel of the post screws as the capture posts are drilled too deep like all the rest and will cut the soft nickel wire using the through holes. I'll probably drop small snips of SS utility wire down the post screw holes so the bottom of the through holes are flush with the tops of the SS utility wire snips.

Since there are only two post holes it is a bit of a pain to thread two coils from either side and hold two coil mandrels in place while tightening the screws.

Comes with manual, two extra post screws, four Kanthal coils and OC.

Wicked with OC just at the top of the juice channels to just where the thread starts, this is 100VG friendly. But with only 40W I do have to close the AFC a bit to get flavor density like all the rest of the unrestrictive draw attys.

I like this better than the SP as its easier to fill and the Silverplay top cap rings are sharp. Maybe a future iteration of either will have the air slots like this, the chamfered top of the juice channels like the SIlverplay, a top fill like this and capture posts with four screws like the Silverplay and others and maybe just maybe somebody will figure out how to not drill the posts past the bottoms of the through holes. But I'm probably asking for too much.

 

[Sgt.Rock]

Hmm..Been vaping with a couple original single coil RSBTs since June or July and like them a lot..may have to check this one out!

Is that drip tip a standard sized changeable tip or is it fixed?

 

[350ZMO]

Standard 510 drip tip.

 

[Mellowbuzz]

May have to give this one a try. How does it perform?

 

[Sgt.Rock]

Standard 510 drip tip.

Thanks! Appreciate the info.

 

[350ZMO]

May have to give this one a try. How does it perform?

Current collection L to R Ceravape Hygeia, Arnold, Wolverine, KF3.1 with Quartz kit, SMY260 with Delta II, B KF3.1, B KF4, B Russian 91, SX350 tube mod with Big Fogger, Orchid V6/Billow, E-Flash V2, DNA40 tube mod with Silverplay, Melo, XPV40 with RSBT II, Aqua, GT-T V2, Big F V5, F 4,5&6 and Kaiser. Smok Gaurdian II pipe with nautilus mini in front. Gave away: gobs of eGo, foggers, RSST, davides, kangers, nautilus, T3s, Squape R and Erlkonigin.

If there is a comparison there I haven't covered and you want to know about let me know.

Subtank, Atlantis, Aqua V2, Goblin, Big KFV4 on the way.

 

[Mellowbuzz]

View attachment 415676
Current collection L to R Ceravape Hygeia, Arnold, Wolverine, KF3.1 with Quartz kit, SMY260 with Delta II, B KF3.1, B KF4, B Russian 91, SX350 tube mod with Big Fogger, Orchid V6/Billow, E-Flash V2, DNA40 tube mod with Silverplay, Melo, XPV40 with RSBT II, Aqua, GT-T V2, Big F V5, F 4,5&6 and Kaiser. Smok Gaurdian II pipe with nautilus mini in front. Gave away: gobs of eGo, foggers, RSST, davides, kangers, nautilus, T3s, Squape R and Erlkonigin.

If there is a comparison there I haven't covered and you want to know about let me know.

Subtank, Atlantis, Aqua V2, Goblin, Big KFV4 on the way.

That's quite a collection! I was just curious how it compared....to say, the lemo. The only tank I own is the lemo drop, and I'm pretty impressed with it. But I would definitely consider purchasing this one. Knowing what I know about tanks, it looks pretty promising. Is it prone to leaking, with the large AF below the coils?

 

[350ZMO]

That's quite a collection! I was just curious how it compared....to say, the lemo. The only tank I own is the lemo drop, and I'm pretty impressed with it. But I would definitely consider purchasing this one. Knowing what I know about tanks, it looks pretty promising. Is it prone to leaking, with the large AF below the coils?

Ah yes ok...gotcha, short answer is yes it is the same as any similar design where the deck air holes and juice channels are in the same plane IE at the same level. You can wick them so they never leak or wick them for max juice flow. I find a mm or two in the juice channels a good balance point on these designs.

Over last night, the SP leaked out and this didn't. That doesn't mean the SP is more prone to leaking, as the juice channel size is very similar - huge. It just means my wicking in the juice channel on the SP is slightly tipped in favor of juice flow as opposed to leak/flood prevention. Both have perfect top seals which is always the first culprit to check with leaks just not the only reason.

Kayfun design decks where the air hole is above the juice channels like the Lemo are more forgiving. The best performers in terms of flowing juice are the designs like the Rose and Kaiser where the air hole is below the juice channels. They can be tricky to wick to just the right balance point as they are more prone to flooding/leaking but they flow juice like crazy. These fogger like decks where they are in the same plane is a good middle ground. It could be improved with a rectangular/oval sleeve around the air ports extending up a couple mm off the deck. As is, wick it like a fogger. Given the length of the slot flowing air over a very long coil this makes it superior to the fogger and similar designs where there is a single hole in the middle.

The biggest concern with the RSBT II I had was the narrow chimney air hole. It comes with a decent wide bore 510 drip tip but the hole even in the bottom of the drip tip is larger than the chimney stem. But it seems to be ok. I think if the stem were drilled or better yet redesigned to be as large as the SP, this thing would flow even more juice and take even more power. With the primary restriction after the juice holes as opposed to before, vacuum in the chamber needed to pull in more juice is reduced as opposed to if the restriction was prior to the juice channels. As it is, carefully closing the AFC to where you feel a slight difference in drag compensates nicely. You can close the AFC on this thing half way and not feel or taste a difference.

On all these high air flow attys, flavor density becomes the issue. Meaning the ratio of vaporized e-Liquid to air. With more air you also need more vaporized juice to maintain the flavor density. Otherwise the vape tastes weak. Either building so it will sustain vastly more power and juice flow or restricting the AFC gets that density back and that rich, more yummy flavor. But beware, at 40-50W vaporizing that much juice you will want to shorten your drags or reduce the nic level. At those power levels the amount of vaporized juice is huge. You can get nic overload very quickly. Whereas with the Lemo you can get the same flavor density at a mere 25W.

 

[Mellowbuzz]

Wow…thanks for the descriptive reply. I really appreciate it. I get what you’re saying about maximizing the vapor to air ratio in order to maintain flavor in these high flow attys, but I guess that’s where my understanding ends. Lol. I’ve been having an issue with my lemo getting dry hits after 3 pulls or so. It’s funny….before I made the switch to RDAs, I was strictly a mouth to lung vaper, and had absolutely no problems with the lemo. Tons of flavor and rarely a dry hit, on a varity of builds- from .5ohms on up to 2.0 ohms. Then in the never-ending quest for flavor, I tried my first rda, and started using the lemo with strictly lung hits….opened the afc and bam, start having dry hits. I would think since I’m now doing lung hits, and drawing harder on the lemo, that the juice flow would be greater because I’m using more suction….but that doesn’t seem to be the case. For the life of me…I cannot get this thing to function properly. And I’ve tried many different builds, but it’s always the same result- the wick dries out on me after a few good pulls. I’ve thought about going back to using it as stickly a mouth to lung atty, and reducing the flow on the afc just to combat the problem. I don’t understand why the wick dries out on me. What do you mean “building for juice flow”? Would it involve thinning the wick tails, or is it all in wick placement? I would love to purchase a new tank, but feel like I don’t have a good understanding of the dynamics of one at the moment.

A little off topic I know- sorry about posting my lemo questions in your review thread. I can start a new thread if you like…

 

[350ZMO]

Wow…thanks for the descriptive reply. I really appreciate it. I get what you’re saying about maximizing the vapor to air ratio in order to maintain flavor in these high flow attys, but I guess that’s where my understanding ends. Lol. I’ve been having an issue with my lemo getting dry hits after 3 pulls or so. It’s funny….before I made the switch to RDAs, I was strictly a mouth to lung vaper, and had absolutely no problems with the lemo. Tons of flavor and rarely a dry hit, on a varity of builds- from .5ohms on up to 2.0 ohms. Then in the never-ending quest for flavor, I tried my first rda, and started using the lemo with strictly lung hits….opened the afc and bam, start having dry hits. I would think since I’m now doing lung hits, and drawing harder on the lemo, that the juice flow would be greater because I’m using more suction….but that doesn’t seem to be the case. For the life of me…I cannot get this thing to function properly. And I’ve tried many different builds, but it’s always the same result- the wick dries out on me after a few good pulls. I’ve thought about going back to using it as stickly a mouth to lung atty, and reducing the flow on the afc just to combat the problem. I don’t understand why the wick dries out on me. What do you mean “building for juice flow”? Would it involve thinning the wick tails, or is it all in wick placement? I would love to purchase a new tank, but feel like I don’t have a good understanding of the dynamics of one at the moment.

A little off topic I know- sorry about posting my lemo questions in your review thread. I can start a new thread if you like…

Not at all. The most I can get out of the Lemo is 26W. The flavor is acceptable but not up to my old standby Kayfuns and Russian 91. At least by drilling the juice holes in the KFV4 I can get it to 16W and it has flavor as good as the old standbys but if its cold like under 70 degrees then she needs some priming.

I think you have the dynamics exactly figured out. Also don't forget Juice viscosity makes a huge difference. With just 3 drops of water added to a tank of my 100VG and all of a sudden it starts flowing where before it wouldn't. Also if the juice is cold that makes a difference.

Yes wicked for flow is not any tails in the juice channel just sitting on the deck but that can be prone to leaking if the wick ends move by jostling blowing to clear a flood etc. So I have found a happy medium by just a mm or so of tails in the very top of the juice channels.

You can also try something like this if you haven't already:

On the taco/enchilada/mummy wick concept in the above right pic they need to be thinner than what I show but you get the idea.

One thing I have noticed is that Rayon is a lot more forgiving than KGD. The KGD has to be very loose, it can't be packed or wedged in the coil. Rayon though, doesn't seem to be as finicky.

That's all I know to help. Below is the Lemo build I'm currently running. Good luck!

 

[Mellowbuzz]

Excellent idea with the thinning of the juice! I don't know why I didn't think of that. So I can add a drop or 2 of water to my tank with max vg juice and that should help things out quite a bit. I didn't consider the fact that when I made the switch to lung hits, I also made a switch to max vg at the same time. Doh! It's moments like that, that remind me how much I have yet to learn!

I get what you're saying on the wicking as well. I've got some playing to do this weekend!

Thanks so much....you've helped more than you know. Cheers!

 

[350ZMO]

Your welcome hope it helps. I do the DIY juice and I noticed a lot of the flavorings are alcohol based and added at like 1 drop per 2ml. Which from what I can find as long as the coil temp is below 440F shouldn't be a problem. That thins out the mix too but the alcohol will evaporate very quickly and you're left with the flavoring but back to very viscous.

Well got some vapemail so giving he Goblin and KFV4 Plus a spin.