Smok X Cube II 160watt TC Bluetooth $55.9 coupon

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After using the XCube II for a couple of weeks all I can say its great on Wattage mode on temp control is just not that great it seems to consistently cut the power at too low of a temperature tried a dry cotton test and it doesn't even burn cotton at 600 degrees F and cotton should burn at that temp. Up to now I am just not happy with the temp control. So unless they do fix the temp control this will be my last ever smok mod so no Koopor for me as just can not trust smok after the 2 failed attempts with temp control with the Xpro M80 and the XCube II
 
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Croak

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I think DJLsbVapes nailed it in his review. Smok, Joyetech/iLeaf and others are deliberately under-shooting their temp settings to keep them from failing the (fairly useless) dry cotton burn test. First YouTube reviewer who does a half-assed test with a hot/warm/poorly made/badly calibrated coil that lights a wick on fire pretty much kills sales for a unit. That's why the Smok M80 is now the Koopor Mini. :)

At least with the recent Smok/Koopor units, you can adjust the TCR manually to correct.
 
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TheBloke

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Entirely up to you! That's the advantage of wires that aren't Ni200 - the resistance is high enough that you don't have to limit yourself to certain thicknesses. With Ni200, most people vape on 28 - 30G, because using 26 or below give resistances almost guaranteed to be below 0.1Ω, which many mods can't do, and requires lots of wraps (potentially hitting deck size limitations/shorting on chimneys), and usually rules out dual coil.

With Titanium, Stainless Steel and the NiFes, you can go back to choosing the wire gauge that you want, for the atomizers you have and the vapes you like.

Personally 26G is my default. It fits in all my atomizers @ 8-9 wraps of 3.25mm diameter, and it provides a decent amount of surface area to give good flavour and plenty of vapour. In some of my single coil atomizers which have plenty of room I've started doing 24G as well. That sometimes needs a bit more power - not an issue on the Smok of course - because of increased coil mass.

And I also experiment sometimes with twisted wire, in the hope of getting even more surface area and therefore even more flavour. 2x26 would be too big for some of my decks, but 2x28 usually works and 2x29 always does. That said, I've not done any twisting with Titanium yet.

My typical 26G coil comes to 0.35Ω - 0.45Ω, which is a good range to ensure good TC accuracy, and still allows for dual coil if desired. 24G by comparison comes to 0.25Ω - 0.35Ω; still possible for dual, though in the teens you are more subject to inaccuracy from resistance in your atomizer (yet another reason why ultra-low-resistance Ni200 is undesirable.)

So if in doubt you can't go much wrong with 26. But feel free to experiment with different gauges to try different things and to suit the decks you have.
 
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pevinsghost

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I played with my 317L a bit more on mine, and found some usable settings. I was doing ok at a TCR of 0.00265, temp limit of 220 F. I was playing with it there since I saw people having success w/TI on mods that only had nickel mode by cutting temp to around 170. That's when I had the (in my mind at least,) brilliant idea to double the actual TCR of the SS, and halve my target temp.

It came close, had to fiddle a bit more from there. I ended up at 0.00185 TCR, 270 F. I get frequent cut outs due to temp, but then it's at temp already and the SS seems to hold heat better than nickel wires did, so I inhale through the cut outs and I get vapor and flavor, just not much heat. Not for those seeking consistent throat hit, sorry.

The XCube II definitely suffers near edges of capabilities. Setting minimum TCR, or approaching the top of it's resistance limits, or even at the edges of the box's temp limits produced odd results in my playing. If you've a better device for the material, I'd recommend using it, but for me, this was at my price limit, and while I think it might get better with other wire materials from the beyond ni200 thread, the SS is a huge step up from nickel for me personally, and is still usable here with a bit of tinkering.

I am chagrined to say I think I found the source of some of my really odd readings, and it was me. On inspection, my clone velocity has a set screw that doesn't tighten down all the way. One of the replacements fit a bit better, but the problem's on the post. I had resistance jumping around from that. :( I guess that's an excuse to break out the only other dripping atomizer I own to try out though.
 
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Mad Scientist

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Well, I finally got it to work exactly the way I like . . .

DNA 200 inside. I was able to retain the functioning of the fire bar and the top up / down buttons. The light show is gone however. Getting the DNA 200 to fit was easy. Getting the fire bar to work and fit exactly like it was with a different board mounted inside was, well, very difficult lol. I also replaced the 510 with a VT 510. The existing 510 is definitely "iffy" as far as how Smok connected the ground ring. That might have been one of the issues that caused me grief, but I'll never know. A mod with issues either sits in a drawer or, like this one, gets up close and personal with a carbide end mill lol.


image.jpg
 

pevinsghost

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Ok, that... is pretty sweet.

Only 133Watt, but really, I don't think I've ever gone above 70 myself.

Is the board inside the fire button? Or just the screen?

Funny thing is, that's probably the cheapest dna200 I've seen if the chip was less than $100, not counting man hours of course.

If Smok did this themselves, selling them for $160 instead of $60 for the xcube 2, I could see those selling like crazy. They could even keep the LEDs, lit by a little watch battery but unconnected to the dna chip.
 
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Mad Scientist

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Ok, that... is pretty sweet.

Only 133Watt, but really, I don't think I've ever gone above 70 myself.

Is the board inside the fire button? Or just the screen?

Funny thing is, that's probably the cheapest dna200 I've seen if the chip was less than $100, not counting man hours of course.

If Smok did this themselves, selling them for $160 instead of $60 for the xcube 2, I could see those selling like crazy. They could even keep the LEDs, lit by a little watch battery but unconnected to the dna chip.

I had to remove the original motherboard and fit the DNA 200 board inside. As I said, getting the fire bar to work was a major headache. A lot of cutting and fitting and trial and error. The existing screen and buttons are mounted on a daughter board that remains inside this mod. It had to be supported owing to no more motherboard, but that was not too hard. I had hoped to keep the light show using a PIC 12F675 and a couple transistors powered off the batteries, but there was no room for even that. It's tight and the dimensions are relatively critical to get everything to work and look like stock.

I think we're going to see a flood of commercially made DNA200 based mods of all sizes and descriptions in the coming weeks and months. It is a fantastic board.

Sorry for the off-topic but it is sort of Xcube related lol.
 
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pevinsghost

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It's HERE!

From Smok's website
"The X CUBE II will support Stainless Steel Wire Temperature Control since the firmware version V1.09. We are so proud that we're the first company who bring the Stainless Steel Wire Temperature Control to the vapor world!

TF-STC2 (Coil for TFV4)is coming soon, best match to X CUBE II with Stainless Stell Wire Temperature Control. Stay tuned!
Patented Stainless Steel Dual Coil Head
Temperature Sensing Capability & No Burnt Taste
0.5Ω (350°F-600°F)

New upgrade Tool(Beta) - At the same time, for a better upgrade experience, we've developed a new, simple upgrade tool which can help you do upgrade with just 3 simple clicks. It's beta version now, welcome you guys to test and feedback to us. Thanks very much."

Shh, no one tell them they weren't the first to market. ;)
 
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