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It's probably what wire they are using in the new SS TC coils coming out. It's certainly the most commonly found in gauges we use.
The Apollo Reliant also does SS, it's in the description of the device. I am fully satisfied with it as well, SS430 works flawlessly in TC. I believe the Xcube 2 is the first with a dedicated SS mode.
The Apollo Reliant also does SS, it's in the description of the device. I am fully satisfied with it as well, SS430 works flawlessly in TC. I believe the Xcube 2 is the first with a dedicated SS mode.
That's not true.
The Dani extreme pipeline pro I think it's called, was the first and it works brilliantly, watch the SS xcube 2 update by djlsb vapes on YouTube and see for yourself.
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I believe SXK was the first with adjustable TCR, not %100 sure if it was them or dicodes though.
*edit*
It was SXK first.
Oh, and guys and gals with X Cubes annoyed by the button rattle? Easy fix for that.
Take out the batteries, and remove the four screws holding the top plate in place, put the screws somewhere safe, and gently lift the top plate from the body, and know that the buttons will fall out so don't lose them either, and remember that the top plate is still attached to the 510 wiring, so don't yank it off, but there's a fair amount of slack in the wiring, giving you all the room you need to work.
Look at the circuit board inside, just below the display. You'll see two surface mounted switches on the board. That's your target. Cut a piece of electrical tape big enough to cover those buttons (and the depression the board rests in), and place it, adhesive side down, on top of the surface mount buttons, making sure not to obscure the two nearby screw holes for the top plate. Then do another strip on top of that.
Then, flip the unit upside down, replace the external buttons through the underside of the top plate, and gently maneuver the top plate back into place, making sure the buttons don't fall out, and that you don't pinch or kink the 510 connector wiring.
Flip it right side up, and holding the top plate in position, check the buttons to make sure they still "click". If they do, replace the four screws, making sure you keep the top plate aligned evenly with the body. Tighten the screws in a "star" pattern (tighten the first one, then the one diagonal to it, then the one above or below that, then diagonal again), and enjoy your greatly reduced rattling but still quite tactile and clicky buttons.
If it's still too annoying, you can add more tape, one layer at a time, and always checking to make sure the buttons work, since it's possible to go too thick with the tape. But two layers should usually do the trick.
Take out the batteries, and remove the four screws holding the top plate in place, put the screws somewhere safe, and gently lift the top plate from the body, and know that the buttons will fall out so don't lose them either, and remember that the top plate is still attached to the 510 wiring, so don't yank it off, but there's a fair amount of slack in the wiring, giving you all the room you need to work.
Look at the circuit board inside, just below the display. You'll see two surface mounted switches on the board. That's your target. Cut a piece of electrical tape big enough to cover those buttons (and the depression the board rests in), and place it, adhesive side down, on top of the surface mount buttons, making sure not to obscure the two nearby screw holes for the top plate. Then do another strip on top of that.
Then, flip the unit upside down, replace the external buttons through the underside of the top plate, and gently maneuver the top plate back into place, making sure the buttons don't fall out, and that you don't pinch or kink the 510 connector wiring.
Flip it right side up, and holding the top plate in position, check the buttons to make sure they still "click". If they do, replace the four screws, making sure you keep the top plate aligned evenly with the body. Tighten the screws in a "star" pattern (tighten the first one, then the one diagonal to it, then the one above or below that, then diagonal again), and enjoy your greatly reduced rattling but still quite tactile and clicky buttons.
If it's still too annoying, you can add more tape, one layer at a time, and always checking to make sure the buttons work, since it's possible to go too thick with the tape. But two layers should usually do the trick.
Put it all together. Couldnt get a good pic though
Didn't expect it to come out this good, well done! {claps}
Put it all together. Couldnt get a good pic though
How she vape doe?
Put it all together. Couldnt get a good pic though
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I can't even get the nickel TC working properly, the Xcube just keeps pulsing the power and putting out really weak vapour, yet if I switch the same tank over to my sigelei 75 TC it works absolutely fine.
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Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
Yeah, It has that dry wick "detection" system, which works too early and cuts off the power even when it's needed.
mine finally arrived today
I've been vaping SS430 in TC on my XCUBE in the TFV4 for about 15 ml... no problems...
War are your settings?
Yeah... saw that in the next couple posts...
Go over to Etsy and search for "unkamen". He's got 28 gauge SS430 200' for $8. Works great on the XCUBE in either mode. I've got a single coil .98 Ohm SS430 in the TFV4 in TC, and a .7 (I think) SS430 coil in my Kanger Subtank Plus on my Tesla Invader 2. Both are vaping great.
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