SmokTech RSST Genesis Rebuildable Atomizer

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aussiedog61

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I can confirm (for my RSST's at least) that the silicon AGA post insulators have solved my post leaking issue. When I disassembled my build I found no liquid between the base and the bottom of the reservoir, thereby leading me to believe that it was indeed coming from the supplied plastic insulator at the top. I replaced it with the silicon AGA post insulator and my provided spare extra washer (couldn't find a nylon washer this small, for now) to provide uniform pressure and rebuilt the coil assembly. I have used it for two days now with no leakage whatsoever. It looks like I'll be saving money on Q-Tips now. :) I would think that the o-ring trick would work as well, but this was easier for me to find parts for this fix (since I was ordering the Fauxgotti from the same place) and I didn't have to cut down the existing insulator. There is a fix for the leak using Teflon tape that seems to work, but I would rather do it correctly at the source rather than fix it after the fact.


Other observations, if anyone is interested:

I am using 400 SS mesh, 3" wide (virtually solid wick, I tried 3 1/4" and it worked, but 3" seems a little better), lightly torched, and wrapped with 28 ga Kanthal with a 3/4 wrap to the inside of both posts (more surface area). I have no wicking issues at all, even chain vaping. Plenty of vapor running 100% VG juice, great flavor, never a dry hit, and vapes to the end without tilting (unless I'm scraping the last bit of juice). It's nice not having to worry which way the air hole is pointing. I may wrap the top of the wick with cotton, ekowool, or a xs sleeve, but it may be overkill at this point.

I have tried it with the fill plug in and without it, and I really can't notice any difference between the two with my set up, so I keep the fill plug in and keep my pockets dry. :) Keep in mind that I am using an almost solid SS mesh wick, so your results may be different if your are using the straw SS mesh wick method, solid ceramic wick, SS rope, or whatever else.

On one of my RSST's I am using Cap It All's Fauxgotti SS top. It looks great, and the flavor is slightly better, but the vapor production seems the same, if not slightly less. Chris is right in saying that it is not a 1/16" hole, I had to break out the DeWalt and fix that. I wonder if going to 5/64ths will help with the vapor production. Any input would be appreciated. Additionally, I may try the cotton filler trick and see if it helps at all. I can't say that it's a huge improvement overall and I am hesitant to order another one for my other RSST, although I do like the looks of that brass one. You will have to make your wick about a 1/16" lower than the top of the center post screw so the mesh does not hit the underside of the cap.

Finally, I filed down the metal screw post to produce an entirely flat bottom. I must have had a second gen production because the post wasn't a point, but it wasn't completely flat either and I felt that it needed a little more contact area. I haven't done any measurements, but it definitely seems to hit harder.

That is all for now and I hope that it helps answering anyone's questions. These RSST's are great for the price, and with a little tinkering it will give you a dependable and enjoyable vape. Take care.
 
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aussiedog61

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I purchased the AGA post insulators when I picked up the Fauxgatti top cap because they were cheap but have not tried them yet. I used to always get a light leak like most people. Mine does not leak anymore, I saw this Teflon tape tweak on YouTube and it works for me: RSST Leak Fix - YouTube

Yeah, I've seen that video too, but I wanted to stop the leak at the immediate source and not after the fact. I wrapped the center post (the one that secures the top and bottom pieces to the tank) with Teflon tape just as a precaution to prevent any leakage there. I know that the YouTube fix seemingly works, but since you already purchased the insulators I would say go ahead and use them with the extra supplied washer and have some piece of mind and a solid build (not that anyone would see it).

I am thinking of making the 1/16" hole bigger on the Fauxgotti in order to get better vapor production. Do you think that it would help, since you have enlarged yours to 5/64ths?
 
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Chris6204

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Yeah, I've seen that video too, but I wanted to stop the leak at the immediate source and not after the fact. I wrapped the center post (the one that secures the top and bottom pieces to the tank) with Teflon tape just as a precaution to prevent any leakage there. I know that the YouTube fix seemingly works, but since you already purchased the insulators I would say go ahead and use them with the extra supplied washer and have some piece of mind and a solid build (not that anyone would see it).

I am thinking of making the 1/16" hole bigger on the Fauxgotti in order to get better vapor production. Do you think that it would help, since you have enlarged yours to 5/64ths?

I started with 1/16" (1.6 mm I think) and slowly graduated to 1.9 - 2.0 mm. The 1/16" was a tad to tight of a draw for me. The larger hole will give increased vapor production (how much will depend on the build) but there will be a point where flavor will be negatively effected. This is why I always start at 1/16" and then take a round tapered file and slowly work to the size I like, cleaning the cap and testing as I go along. I like my vape creamy and flavorful with as much nuance to the flavor notes as possible.

When I recoil I will install the AGA post insulator with a Teflon washer, I don't see any reason why not. By the way if you do put cotton inside the top cap like I do, most of the moisture and splatter of juice will be absorbed by the cotton filler. I learn a lot and get a ton of good ideas from ecf, hell I even forgot that the RSST came with spare parts! Lol

Chris
 

LeoRex

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Tried out a new setup.... My wick has been having problems keeping up with the coil... the coil quickly starts to dry fire and heat up... not good.

I thought about ways to increase the amount of juice sitting in that wick.. and I thought that maybe adding a silica wick core to the SS mesh might help. So I wrapped a new mesh AROUND a 2 mm silica wick, leaving a tail that will sit in the tank and a little bit above the mesh so I could pull the wick if needed. I usually pulse ox my mesh, so I wanted the wick in place so I wouldn't have to fiddle with the set up once I got it ready... Turns out that pulse ox'ing the mesh did singe the silica in a couple of spots, so having the tail up top let me pull those out, leaving clean wick. If I oxidized manually, I could have just snaked some wick through the mesh with a wire leader (easy enough to do)

Turns out, it actually works. The silica acts like a bit of a juice reservoir, and when the mesh starts to get dry, juice gets pulled in from the silica. Added benefit is that the vape is actually heavier than I had it with the mesh-only wick.... so I can't really vape it very long anyhow. :)
 

zipflint

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I've thought about that, but never got around to it. Cool to hear that it works!

My plan now is to do what you did, but to add a hollow ekowool sock over the top of the mesh wick, around which I'll wrap the coil.
That's what I usually do anyway, but your addition of the silica core is great. I might try some of the hemp wick I've got as the core.
Wait....no that won't work. It'll probably just scorch inside the mesh as it heats. I'll stick with silica.
 

LeoRex

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It'll probably just scorch inside the mesh as it heats. I'll stick with silica.

Yeah.. silica only in there...

But even silica can fry... I pulse ox'd it with the silica in there and burnt it in a couple of spots. But... I left a generous tail on it, so I just pulled a little out the top and trimmed it. I think there might even be enough in the tank for me to pull some more out if it starts to get messed up by where the coil is.

Works awesome.. a hell of a lot better than just the mesh I had on there previously. The top of the wick sticking out the top is saturated, and my mesh is also wet... so there's a lot of juice in that wick now.
 

zipflint

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I'll say this, I pretty much suck at rolling mesh. As in, I always have to spend quite a while squashing and rolling the mesh to make it fit. So adding the silica is gonna be a PITA....but I'll give it a try anyway.




Yeah.. silica only in there...

Works awesome.. a hell of a lot better than just the mesh I had on there previously. The top of the wick sticking out the top is saturated, and my mesh is also wet... so there's a lot of juice in that wick now.
 

zipflint

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Sounds good man. It was actually my frustrations with rolling mesh wicks that drove me to first try ceramic wicks (not for me) and then ss cable. I'm sold on the cable. But like I said before, I always use a hat/sock for the top of my wick where I wrap the coil. This makes the whole process much easier. It's kind of a pain to get a nice even wrap around the ekowool/silica sleeve, and sometimes I even wrap it free-hand and then place the whole wick in there and adjust.

Still though, I'm definitely gonna give your idea a whirl the next time I need to replace a wick. :)


well... I actually found it a little easier to roll the mesh with a wick in there. I had something to wrap around and have as a reference point.
 

vapolator

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I already add cotton to reduce volume in the top cap which improves the flavor and vape, see pic. Using the new fauxgatti reduced cap with the cotton 1) increases the flavor just a tad over the cotton I use. Note regarding flavor, I liked the stock cap better with the added cotton over the new reduced chamber cap without the added cotton. Best setup was with the new reduced chamber cap and cotton filler. 2) the vape is warmer to hot if I chain vape. I had to add the black drip tip stay cool thingy which you can see in the pic.

Hy chris,

This is the best compromise than i finded, on left, a global homemade reduction :
9336933115_56f5abdd7d.jpg
 
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Chris6204

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Hy chris,

This is the best compromise than i finded, on left, a global homemade reduction :
9336933115_56f5abdd7d.jpg

I like that, great idea! How did you cut the bottom so it is flat/flush? What tool(s) did you use?

With the tools I have the only way I can think of cutting the cap so it is flush (and safe for me) is to mount the cap upside down in a small vise and use a cutting wheel in a drill press.

Thx, Chris
 

vapolator

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In fact you have to modify all the atomizer, that's the dark side. I'm personnally under equiped in tools, so i dont think that my way is the better lol

Cutting the top cap : i find the "plumber's tool" for cutting tube a good idea, but the SS used for the RSST is hard as a rock. Like a pastry cook workspace. Take care.

I used a thin diamond cutting wheel for dremel and a fine file, and a bunch of hours. The goal was to cut the top cap just before the airhole like that :
9194563851_1647a41c82.jpg

It reduce the height of the top cap to around 12 millimeters, from 21.5 millimeters. This give you a working chamber similar to the mini DID in volume, but on a D20 diameter.

But you have to mod others parts or it will not work/fit :

the positive pin : screwed near to the max and cutted off ~9 millimeters

And work the mesh support hardly to have enough height for the air/liquid exchange, or you will have a too short mesh like that :
9306104037_7b7327da4d.jpg

You need to work the mesh support like a foggatty to leave enough space for a nice mesh/coil setup. I've planned initially the atomizer for a cable/mesh500/microcoil, so i done the things in this way with the (holly) dremel :
9733529469_358e785e8e.jpg

I advise the mad guys who want do this extreme mod to test the atomizer during steps, the last picture is not the finished one, i continue to work on when i've the time. It's very "time-eating" with the wrong tools, but damn it value the pain.

I've reduced the tank too, initially to visually balance the heights only. New capacity is 2 milliliters. Take care if you do that too, the axis in center of the tank is not in stainless steel but in brass.

The vapor obtained is similar with something like that :
9078875261_c1ec36246c.jpg
But nervous like a dry atomizer with a good cable setup. A diameter of mesh/cable of 3millimeter is a strict minimum to enjoy the "kik ..." effect without any dry hit.

The vapor is very dense, flavorfull like a DC, on hot side but not so many with a cable and a good air hole. RSST give a good throat hit by nature, but now its simply amazing. I'm very sensible to that, and more addicted to a clean and frank hit than to nicotine levels. So if you search a smoother vapor, this is absolutly not the modification to do.

I love it so much than i decided to rebuild an entirely one from scratch, this mad thing becomed a prototype lol

If you search an experience like me, and than you have the tools or the madness to do it with a sylex ... sincerely do it, it will pay you well in return.

I will try to comment all the pictures in the future but you can follow it there : Mod RSST - a set on Flickr

(sorry for my approximative english, by the way :oops:)
 
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