SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device

[meatsneakers]

That's why the high price mechanicals exist - they put the R&D into the materials, workmanship etc. For under 50$, this thing is a no brainier, even with the quirks. The shell could be thicker, could have used all brass contacts, 316 stainless, etc. But at this price point I can't fault it.

 

[EDO]

A little off topic but....I can't understand why more manufacturers aren't using aluminum for the tubing since it makes for a much lighter device and conducts far better than stainless steel.

 

[USinchains]

A little off topic but....I can't understand why more manufacturers aren't using aluminum for the tubing since it makes for a much lighter device and conducts far better than stainless steel.

My only experience is with a Silver Bullet, it doesn't hold a polish for a day and gouges like a soap bar when it hits the ground.

 

[meatsneakers]

Same issues with the Roughstack. Painted or anodized fixes that, but then it can chip and the threads have to be clear of any finish.

I like stainless mods for the tarnish resistance and the conductivity of the body is usually not an issue - there is much more metal to transfer the power. Where the issues arise are the small bits of metal carrying the current - switch contacts, springs, atty connectors etc.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

After 2 years of VV mods, I decided to pick up a Natural to see if mechanical mods were adequate. After having custom dual 18650 box mods and a VAMO I wanted something smaller, decently made, attractive and reasonably priced - after reading this thread I decided on the Natural.

The last unregulated mod I used was a Roughstack almost 2 years ago and it wasn't great - bad switch, tarnished, odd button placement etc. This is a 180 - functions amazingly well and the vape is fantastic. I have joined the low ohm, low gauge bandwagon 1 ohm, 28 gauge coil with an AGA-t2, AW 1600 mah IMR's and I couldn't ask for more.

My only negative feedback would be that conductivity was not great out of the box, the switch was getting warm. I dismantled it completely and sanded the chrome plating to expose the brass wherever current flowed. Now under load, the battery drops .2v where it was previously .6v and the switch stays cool even during dry burns. The wattage swing from fully charged to the end of my typical vaping day is roughly 3 watts - 13w to 16w, which is not too noticeable as it is gradual.

Damn meat, great find! I'm forever on your hells (still loving my aluminum OKR feeder )

I've been using this natural all day with my DID, it works so well I have had nothing to post lol. I use it in 18350 mode and use my ring finger on the button, so the stiffness hasn't bothered me.

Can't wait to sand it down a bit and reveal the conductive mystery metal, thank you my NY brother!

 

[USinchains]

This is my new favorite today, 350 mode + AGA-S. The pic makes it look huge.

 

[Devilok]

I just received my Natural today and I have to say, for being a budget mech mod it really is pretty nice! It's simple, and it works great

 

[EDO]

My only experience is with a Silver Bullet, it doesn't hold a polish for a day and gouges like a soap bar when it hits the ground.

Same issues with the Roughstack. Painted or anodized fixes that, but then it can chip and the threads have to be clear of any finish.

I like stainless mods for the tarnish resistance and the conductivity of the body is usually not an issue - there is much more metal to transfer the power. Where the issues arise are the small bits of metal carrying the current - switch contacts, springs, atty connectors etc.

I guess that's why most of the mods out there are stainless steel. I didn't know that even polished aluminum tarnishes badly and was so soft.

I like the vape of a low ohm set up on a mehcanical mod so much, I was thinking of getting a higher end mod for even a better performance. However, after meatsneakers' find that the contacts are actually brass if you sand them down, I don't think I can justify spending money on another mod. I don't think I would get so much better performance and the Natural looks like it was tailor made for my Cobra. So...thanks meatsneakers.

 

[meatsneakers]

haha thanks, but I'm only the messenger - Studiovap http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/members/99962/studiovap.html took the time to dismantle this and mod it. I would have just thought it was a solid piece of Chinese mystery metal

 

[alvinado]

Link is not working?


Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[I B Brett]

I got my Smoktech "Natural" from "Kidney Puncher" ( Kidney Puncher ) It was $59.95 + $6.20 Shipping !
I received it in just a matter of days and I've been really happy with it ! It is a solidly built stainless steel multi-sectional
Mod with 3 tubes a 510 top cap a 12 hole vented bottom cap and a side switch with a locking ring mounted on the bottom
tube. The threading is quite smooth and the tube connection (joints) are hardly noticeable. It is capable of taking
the 18350, 18490 and 18650 batteries with the ability of using a "Kick" in the 18350 and 18490 modes.
All in All I'm Quite Happy With It !

 

[muzichead]

I got mine from Rawr with the understanding it would work with all 3 battery configurations, but the only way it will work with the 18490 battery is with the 18650 tube and the kick installed with it. That is fine and all, but have been using it for 3 days now in 18350 mode and see no need to install the kick in it as yet. I bought it to put a Vapeonly BCC on it and it is more than what I expected to this point. I have gotten awesome flavor and clouds of vapor to this point..... It certainly can only get better from here.....

A friend of mine that has been a 40+ year smoker took a hit off it yesterday, and it promptly set him down in his chair in a daze....not to mention he about hacked up a lung.... He was stunned by the throat hit, taste, and vapor!! To this point the only thing he vaped was the 808 style from the gas station. I warned him before he hit it!!! He is now thinking vaping is a definite option for him at this point in life..... Possible convert I suspect!!!!

 

[StaircaseWit]

I got mine from Rawr with the understanding it would work with all 3 battery configurations, but the only way it will work with the 18490 battery is with the 18650 tube and the kick installed with it.

I've heard so much conflicting information on this. I really want to order one (it seems a no-brainer for the price), but I *need* it to run 18490 batteries, since I have a ton of them from my Provari.

Have you seen the following from this thread? It seems people are using 18490s just fine, including those who ordered from Rawr:

Mine doesn't have the 18500 tube,but if you take off the shortest tube an 18490 will fit and work fine.

Yeah, I noticed that too. I was just reporting back in case someone else was looking to purchase from there.

I personally don't know why anyone would pay extra for the 18500 tube. Looks like in pics I've seen side by side it already has that tube on it.

Because some people are dumb. Like me. I ordered 2 of them. But I order 2 of everything. There is a slight variation in length between the 18500 tube and the one that comes with it.

 

[PuffMagicDragon]

I got mine a few days ago. I am happy with the performance. It looks ok and the button hasn't bothered me. My only complaint is the machining and or quality control. The tubes aren't seamless... on mine and my buddies the seams are off to a side so not like my other mods where the joint is smooth. It might even be a blem because these were only $44.00 I'll have to look into it some more but still not a bad device for the price.

 

[jamesfarrell]

I would not recommend sanding anything on this thing. I sanded the top pin and now it's having trouble contacting the pin on the aga t+ that I use. So I sanded down the top of the Natural to make up for the loss of space and now it's too close and causes the pin in the aga t+ to push up through the bushing and make contact and almost melted the battery. Just leave the thing alone and use it like it is.

 

[EDO]

Jamesfarell...I am sorry your post is a little confusing.....You just have to sand a little to expose the brass (Were are talking about a tenth of a mm at most)...it shouldn't have made such a big difference...especially when you can adjust the positive pin up and sown.

Just like Meatsnickers said...on a one ohm coil I got 3 watts extra with sanding every little contact and exposing the brass....that is very significant.

 

[USinchains]

I would not recommend sanding anything on this thing. I sanded the top pin and now it's having trouble contacting the pin on the aga t+ that I use. So I sanded down the top of the Natural to make up for the loss of space and now it's too close and causes the pin in the aga t+ to push up through the bushing and make contact and almost melted the battery. Just leave the thing alone and use it like it is.

I sanded a lot off of both sides of the pin and the top reservoir skirt to close the gap, no problems whatsoever. Try taking out the positive pin completely, attach the aga, then screw the positive pin in until it makes contact.

I used an Odysseus clone and had to re-slot the top of the reservoir skirt and one on the positive pin to get my airflow back.

 

[jamesfarrell]

Jamesfarell...I am sorry your post is a little confusing.....You just have to sand a little to expose the brass (Were are talking about a tenth of a mm at most)...it shouldn't have made such a big difference...especially when you can adjust the positive pin up and sown.

Just like Meatsnickers said...on a one ohm coil I got 3 watts extra with sanding every little contact and exposing the brass....that is very significant.

I probably sanded too much. When I did it squished the top of the pin outwards too, making the (+) connection too close to the (-) on the ATTY. But the real issue is that on my Birkshire AGA T+ you can't secure the center pin, if your (+) pin on the MOD is up too high, it will push the center pin of the AGA T+ up and squish the bushing and short out. I've yet to be able to solve this. What the AGA T+ needs is some threaded nylon inserts in the top and bottom of the device and the center rod needs to be threaded so you can adjust the height. But we're talking crap Chinese design. Maybe in 100 years they'll catch up and understand what I'm taking about. So when I sanded the top of the MOD as well, the part the pin goes into (to make the AGA T+ sit flush on the top) the center pin on the MOD pushes up the center pin on the atty, squishing the bushing and shorting out. Make sense?

Also, I can't figure out how to get the bottom pin of the MOD out to sand it down to brass. This is my fault, I didn't realize the plating was so thin, I went too hard with it. But after adjusting the mod and the atty, all is well. I just have to make damn sure not to tighten the AGA T+ down too tight, or the bushing gets squashed and it shorts out.

So I also backed the center pin of the mod out (top pin) but now I have gaps in the device. It's really the fault of poor design on the atty, not the MOD. But I'm afraid to leave a battery in it overnight for fear of a fire.

 

[ericlin0122]

I am doing some research before pulling the trigger to get the natural.
May I ask what do you use to sand the pins? is there any specific tools?
Thanks!

 

[EDO]

But we're talking crap Chinese design. Maybe in 100 years they'll catch up and understand what I'm taking about.

LOL....I know what you mean they should use nice and hard silicone insulators instead of these cheapo rubbery ones.

Ok to get to the bottom pin is real easy....secure the pin in place with a screw driver and on the other side where the switch is you will notice the pin has a slot in it....with your finger nail twist it until you can fully unscrew it. Sand the screw side as well the bottom side of it where it makes contact with switch. Once you get the bottom pin out push the switch to expose its pin and just sand the bottom of that. Try not to take out the switch.... a real PITA to get back inside.