SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device

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USinchains

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Pardon my ignorance, but aren't you adjusting the mod's positive pin from the bottom? I'm having a hard time understanding why you can't just lower it into the mod to give your atty connector some room.

I probably sanded too much. When I did it squished the top of the pin outwards too, making the (+) connection too close to the (-) on the ATTY. But the real issue is that on my Birkshire AGA T+ you can't secure the center pin, if your (+) pin on the MOD is up too high, it will push the center pin of the AGA T+ up and squish the bushing and short out. I've yet to be able to solve this. What the AGA T+ needs is some threaded nylon inserts in the top and bottom of the device and the center rod needs to be threaded so you can adjust the height. But we're talking crap Chinese design. Maybe in 100 years they'll catch up and understand what I'm taking about. So when I sanded the top of the MOD as well, the part the pin goes into (to make the AGA T+ sit flush on the top) the center pin on the MOD pushes up the center pin on the atty, squishing the bushing and shorting out. Make sense?

Also, I can't figure out how to get the bottom pin of the MOD out to sand it down to brass. This is my fault, I didn't realize the plating was so thin, I went too hard with it. But after adjusting the mod and the atty, all is well. I just have to make damn sure not to tighten the AGA T+ down too tight, or the bushing gets squashed and it shorts out.

So I also backed the center pin of the mod out (top pin) but now I have gaps in the device. It's really the fault of poor design on the atty, not the MOD. But I'm afraid to leave a battery in it overnight for fear of a fire.
 

EDO

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I am doing some research before pulling the trigger to get the natural.
May I ask what do you use to sand the pins? is there any specific tools?
Thanks!

Just plain sand paper....the plating on the screws/pins are real thin...so it doesn't take much to remove it.
 
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muzichead

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I probably sanded too much. When I did it squished the top of the pin outwards too, making the (+) connection too close to the (-) on the ATTY. But the real issue is that on my Birkshire AGA T+ you can't secure the center pin, if your (+) pin on the MOD is up too high, it will push the center pin of the AGA T+ up and squish the bushing and short out. I've yet to be able to solve this. What the AGA T+ needs is some threaded nylon inserts in the top and bottom of the device and the center rod needs to be threaded so you can adjust the height. But we're talking crap Chinese design. Maybe in 100 years they'll catch up and understand what I'm taking about. So when I sanded the top of the MOD as well, the part the pin goes into (to make the AGA T+ sit flush on the top) the center pin on the MOD pushes up the center pin on the atty, squishing the bushing and shorting out. Make sense?

Also, I can't figure out how to get the bottom pin of the MOD out to sand it down to brass. This is my fault, I didn't realize the plating was so thin, I went too hard with it. But after adjusting the mod and the atty, all is well. I just have to make damn sure not to tighten the AGA T+ down too tight, or the bushing gets squashed and it shorts out.

So I also backed the center pin of the mod out (top pin) but now I have gaps in the device. It's really the fault of poor design on the atty, not the MOD. But I'm afraid to leave a battery in it overnight for fear of a fire.

If you look at the other thread where the guy sanded his down originally, he also sanded the complete top cap down as well. Pretty much cut it in half, and then made new pins to go into the device. It was a total mod job all together. Since you sanded down the 510 connector as well to make your AGA sit flush with the unit you will need to cut the pin down as much as you took off the 510 connector to make it even out. That should make take care of your problem....

Here is a link to the other thread I saw: http://forums.aussievapers.com/modd...ok-natural-did-hybrid-upgrade.html#post179560
 
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muzichead

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I would also like to know this!

It is because he actually sanded down the 510 connector housing itself to make the AGA sit flush with the top cap on the device. The pin is now too long for the unit to go together seamlessly.... He can't lower it into the mod because there is no excess room in there for the adjustment..... He needs to, as I already pointed out, cut 2mm+ off the positive pin to be able to make the device seamless once again....
 

Absintheur

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I bought mine really for use as a 18350 device, will probably never see a 18650. I am using E-Fest flattops in it, fit is perfect. I screwed om a Kamry X6 4-Wick Tank to try it out, vapes great. The Kamry was a cheap buy at 5 bucks but not one I would recommend because replacing the wicks in it will be a major pita as the tank does not come off the base. It does vape very well however for now.

In 18350 mod the button falls nicely under my ring finger and is easy to use. I am really starting to like this size, besides the Natural I have an Ikarus and Caravela...both 18350 mods. Stealth can be a nice thing. The Drunker tank gaps quite a bit on this mod but a simple felt battery washer fills the gap for a nicer look.

Over all I am happy with this mod. Threading is very nice, very smooth. I like the adjustable pins, seams are very tight, and the button is comfortable to use. For the money it would appear to be a good mechanical mod.

natural1_zps0f552ae4.jpg
 

DJ RyckRak

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Those are some really nice looking units Absintheur !
I like the look of the 'Cube'- Very Handsome.

My Natural came in Vapemail today.
Running a 18650 Panasonic in it with a Vision Clearo on top...just to try it out.
The vape is great, not too hot like I get with my twist or my eVic- If I don't turn it down.
I fiddled with the post in the bottom before I put the battery in....now the first 'section' appears to be one thread too long.
By that I mean- the gap between the first and second section looks like 1 thread too wide....
I will play with it tonight to see if I can tighten the gap up.
The size is small- but very nice.
Will post the pictures with the Black RDA when it comes in tomarrows mail.
My first mechanical mod...and I am pleased.
 

VapingTurtle

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...
I fiddled with the post in the bottom before I put the battery in....now the first 'section' appears to be one thread too long.
By that I mean- the gap between the first and second section looks like 1 thread too wide....

Panny button top?
Unscrew the bottom cap (where the vents are) so that the gap is down there. It doesn't look too bad with the gap at the bottom.

ST designed about 1mm of adjustment room with the bottom cap with no gaps at the tube joints. (No, no... really... they did. At least that is what I've been told :unsure:)
 
I am really so tired of hearing " that is a clone" , "that looks like a *&%$#" , "That is a knock off" Well honestly yall, the Chinese started the whole dam thing to begin with and you can only make a tube so many dam ways, you can only put the button up top in the middle or on the bottom, get over it. You like the mod buy it you dont like the mod dont.

Someone get this guy a drink
 

jjallen57

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Have had my Natural for about a week now. Appreciating it more each day. Sanded down the contacts and got a bump up of .3+ in voltage -- very cool and thanks for the info. on that guys.

Got it set up in 18350 w/ a vapeonly tank on it. Simple, clean, stealthy, and a satisfying vape.

My only knock on things now, as has been mentioned, is the button. Wish it had less tension. Gotta figure out how to get that nut off on the inside w/o messing up the tube. Then can cut the spring and/or replace w/ something less stiff.

Anyone take the button mechanics apart?
 

finagle69

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Have had my Natural for about a week now. Appreciating it more each day. Sanded down the contacts and got a bump up of .3+ in voltage -- very cool and thanks for the info. on that guys.

Got it set up in 18350 w/ a vapeonly tank on it. Simple, clean, stealthy, and a satisfying vape.

My only knock on things now, as has been mentioned, is the button. Wish it had less tension. Gotta figure out how to get that nut off on the inside w/o messing up the tube. Then can cut the spring and/or replace w/ something less stiff.

Anyone take the button mechanics apart?

I just got mine yesterday and fully disassembled it, including the button assembly. I just found this thread, so I'll be sanding all the contacts tonight.

The switch assembly is a pain to get back together, tighten, then still be able to spin the locking ring. But it's not too terrible.

I played with the stock spring a bit, it's definitely too stiff. I'm thinking of taking a spring from a ballpoint pen, widening it, and putting that in its place. Should decrease the amount of force needed for it.

Lastly, the bottom pin that recesses into the bottom cap I think can be shortened with a dremel. For my Efest 18650 2000mah battery, it's too tight and I can't screw everything tight without putting the positive post way high. Which obviously causes whatever device on top to sit too high.
 

mccawley

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Have had my Natural for about a week now. Appreciating it more each day. Sanded down the contacts and got a bump up of .3+ in voltage -- very cool and thanks for the info. on that guys.

Got it set up in 18350 w/ a vapeonly tank on it. Simple, clean, stealthy, and a satisfying vape.

My only knock on things now, as has been mentioned, is the button. Wish it had less tension. Gotta figure out how to get that nut off on the inside w/o messing up the tube. Then can cut the spring and/or replace w/ something less stiff.

Anyone take the button mechanics apart?

Hey, I dont suppose you could post a photo of how that Vape Only tank looks can ya!
 

EDO

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I played with the stock spring a bit, it's definitely too stiff. I'm thinking of taking a spring from a ballpoint pen, widening it, and putting that in its place. Should decrease the amount of force needed for it.

The spring definitely loosens up after a week of use. If you put a thinner spring it might heat up on you.
 
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