SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device
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Alright, so I'm looking for some help from the Natural gurus.
I got my Natural in the mail yesterday as my first mechanical mod, just to see what all the hype with SLR rba setups is about. My first impressions were that for the price, it seems like a great little device.
Here's my issue. I'm using it in 18350 mode (that's why I bought it) with button top Efest 800mah IMR's. I got the Natural in the mail yesterday (along with the brand new 18350 batts) and proceeded to look it over, charge my batteries, then give it a go. When I screwed my AGA-T on top (not overly tight mind you) It worked OK (nothing spectacular) for a while. Then I decided to go ahead and wrap a lower ohm coil, so I disassembled the AGA, wrapped some 28 wire to a 1.1 coil, and stuck it on. I quickly shorted the battery through the body. I could see the positive post on the AGA was pushed up something fierce, forcing out one of the O-rings on the bottom (AGA users know what I'm talking about).
So I figured I'd adjust the positive pin. Took the mod apart while my battery cooled down, and to my dismay, I can't get the slotted positive post to turn. It was my understanding that this is the correct way to adjust the post... I tried this and that, adjusting the positive pin of both the AGA and the Natural, and about 50% of the time (again, never really tightening the atty on the 510) it would short.
What I ended up doing temporarily was getting a rubber washer I had laying around, and putting it against the body of the AGA, around the 510. I can snug it down, and it seems to work OK, but shouldn't there be a better way to fix this?
Any insight is appreciated, as like I said, this is my first mechanical. It just seems I'm doing something very simple completely wrong, and once I figure out what it is, I'll have that forehead-slapping "DO'H" moment.
I got my Natural in the mail yesterday as my first mechanical mod, just to see what all the hype with SLR rba setups is about. My first impressions were that for the price, it seems like a great little device.
Here's my issue. I'm using it in 18350 mode (that's why I bought it) with button top Efest 800mah IMR's. I got the Natural in the mail yesterday (along with the brand new 18350 batts) and proceeded to look it over, charge my batteries, then give it a go. When I screwed my AGA-T on top (not overly tight mind you) It worked OK (nothing spectacular) for a while. Then I decided to go ahead and wrap a lower ohm coil, so I disassembled the AGA, wrapped some 28 wire to a 1.1 coil, and stuck it on. I quickly shorted the battery through the body. I could see the positive post on the AGA was pushed up something fierce, forcing out one of the O-rings on the bottom (AGA users know what I'm talking about).
So I figured I'd adjust the positive pin. Took the mod apart while my battery cooled down, and to my dismay, I can't get the slotted positive post to turn. It was my understanding that this is the correct way to adjust the post... I tried this and that, adjusting the positive pin of both the AGA and the Natural, and about 50% of the time (again, never really tightening the atty on the 510) it would short.
What I ended up doing temporarily was getting a rubber washer I had laying around, and putting it against the body of the AGA, around the 510. I can snug it down, and it seems to work OK, but shouldn't there be a better way to fix this?
Any insight is appreciated, as like I said, this is my first mechanical. It just seems I'm doing something very simple completely wrong, and once I figure out what it is, I'll have that forehead-slapping "DO'H" moment.
This AGA post issue happened to someone else and I'm not sure they were aware that the natural post can be adjusted from underneath the top cap. If yours is not turning it may be cross thread, I believe it's insulated in delrin or something. I would give it reasonable amount of force using a good size flat head screwdriver, maybe a drop of machine oil on it from the top, and if it still doesn't budge I'd return it for another that gets inspected before it's shipped. That's one of the more crucial parts which make this mod versatile, so it's an important one IMO, and the fact that the threads are in delrin kind of makes it a weak point as I think some of us will find in the future.
If or when you get it out, put your atty on all the way before screwing the pin back in, easy way to find your lowest profile.
If or when you get it out, put your atty on all the way before screwing the pin back in, easy way to find your lowest profile.
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I tried several times to get the positive post to unscrew on mine before I got it. It was tightened up pretty good from the factory and I just wasn't trying hard enough. The screwdriver slot is narrow and shallow for one that size, so I wasn't able to use a bigger screwdriver. I ended up loosening it with a pair of needlenose pliers. I took it completely out and screwed my mini nova on where I wanted it and then just snugged the screw up by hand, like USinChains said.
I gave this mod some grief and scrutiny when I got, still not sure it's worth 50 clams, but it has become my main, all day mod now that I'm completely converted to rebuildables, working my way up in wattage at 15 now. The fact that it's not a limited run piece of art makes it ok for me to pocket it and take it to work, and ok to modify it however I choose. My other mechs are/were not so pocket friendly, ie the SB. I'm also so used to the bottom-side button now that triggering an ego batt is bothersome, and I like it much more than straight up bottom buttons like on my Precise.
Yep, I ruined 2 of my small batteries (18350?) with the genesis aga t+
The issue is the rubber seal at the bottom of the aga. If your pin is too far up on the mod it will push up the center pin in the atty and squish the rubber or silicone seal, shorting the thing out. Remedy in my case as mentioned was to back out the pin on the top of the mod. Which of course will make mod have gaps now depending on the battery. So the remedy to that is to grind down the slotted portion of the pin on the mod head (inside part) just so it makes contact with the battery.
The issue is the rubber seal at the bottom of the aga. If your pin is too far up on the mod it will push up the center pin in the atty and squish the rubber or silicone seal, shorting the thing out. Remedy in my case as mentioned was to back out the pin on the top of the mod. Which of course will make mod have gaps now depending on the battery. So the remedy to that is to grind down the slotted portion of the pin on the mod head (inside part) just so it makes contact with the battery.
grind down the inside part? really? I wouldn't do that? Id sand down the 510 connection side, no?
There's different ways to solve the problem. You can unscrew The mod pin so that it does not push up the Atty pin and short the battery. This will cause you to have to unscrew the mod parts and have gaps. Or you can do as you said and grind down the pin on the mod a little bit
I have AW button top 18350s and I have an IMR flat top 18350 battery. Both batteries are working just fine with my original knurled aga-T with no gaps in the mod. When I am using 18650 batteries, button tops demand a gap in the mod, even with the center pin adjusted just enough to push the aga-t center pin in a tiny bit. When using flat top 18650s my natural is fine. What I am thinking about doing is sanding down the naturals center pin a teeeny bit to see if I can use flat top batteries in it. But I would not be sanding down the screw that is under the top cap of the natural. I would take the whole center pin out and sand down the side that comes in contact with my atomizers, not the side that contacts my batteries. If I grind down the side that comes in contact with the batteries, it'd be hard to get it unscrewed, because it would make the screw driver slot more shallow, right?
I ground both sides down, no more driver slot on the bottom and I can still turn it just fine with my fingers. I had to take off more since I also shortened the 510 skirt height to bring my tanks down flush onto the mod. So the slots are also ground off on the negative post to drop the battery down as far as it can go. Be careful grinding the top of the positive post, be aware of how much space is needed, I believe it's possible to grind too much off making it impossible to contact some atty +posts even when it's screwed all the way in. Different attys have different length connectors.
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Yes it would make it hard to get a screwdriver in there you would have to use needle nose to adjust after that
I wonder why they would design it like that when most people use AW/Efest IMR batteries in mech mods? Is it that way with a typical AW/IMR button-top battery? Could the bottom spring be removed to make up the gap?
I could try taking a bit off both posts rather than just the 510 post.
I'd be careful as I could be to not make anything too short.
I'll probably sooner not sand enough than sand too much.
Honestly I just want to up the voltage drop. I don't mind the small gap in the aga to lid.
I'd be careful as I could be to not make anything too short.
I'll probably sooner not sand enough than sand too much.
Honestly I just want to up the voltage drop. I don't mind the small gap in the aga to lid.
I ended up ordering a EFEST IMR 18650 2000mAh 3.7V LI-MN RECHARGEABLE and ill grab some 18350s in the same battery at 800mah when they're back in stock.
As for any little gaps, couldn't you put a nice looking washer of some kind in there ?
I don't know if they'll bug me too much as this mod will be mostly for RBAs and probably won't leave the house too too often, my evic will a carto tank will probably stay my daily pocket mod.
As for any little gaps, couldn't you put a nice looking washer of some kind in there ?
I don't know if they'll bug me too much as this mod will be mostly for RBAs and probably won't leave the house too too often, my evic will a carto tank will probably stay my daily pocket mod.
Hint #37 gaps can be filled with a felt washer which will still allow air flow. Look at the auto parts store for battery washers.
What's hint number 36?
Say not to gaps. Good mod, but needs a couple more revisions before it's perfect. Damn close though. Needs a tad more adjustability.
Say not to gaps. Good mod, but needs a couple more revisions before it's perfect. Damn close though. Needs a tad more adjustability.
The spring on the bottom of mine was useless because the pin bottomed out in the bottom cap long before the spring compressed. I removed probably 2 or 3 mm off the bottom of the pin and have full use of the spring now.
Hint 36 is a secret, only to be revealed with NTK clearance.
Now I just started vaping not long ago so forgive my ignorance here. With the washer thing couldn't you use brass or SS for the washer ? Cause the only thing it will touch is the outside of the 510 connection which is just a negative ground anyhow , so the washer is just acting as a ground? Airflow wouldn't be an issue with something like a genesis or the IGO.
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