Tried w/ one 18650 and it wasn't even close; think you'd need to drop to 18490/1850.
SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device
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Tried w/ one 18650 and it wasn't even close; think you'd need to drop to 18490/1850.
I'm using an 18500 with a kick. The kick adds around 15mm. The battery number reflects its size. An 18500 is roughly 18mm diameter x 50mm long. Add a kick to it and it's roughly 65mm, the same length as an 18650. An 18350 is 15mm shorter than an 18500, so if you were to purchase the tube for the 18500, it should work with an 18350 and a kick.
AW 18350 + kick is still a bit big with the 500 tube but it works with gaps.
It's pretty dependent on what battery you're using. Mine didn't fit either, until I shortened the lower pin where it goes into the bottom cap. It's too long and doesn't let the spring under the negative post compress fully, if at all. Hopefully they'll address this issue in future revisions. As it is, it's pretty easy to shorten the pin.
I also have some Efest flattop 18500 and they are longer than than the EH.
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I know this was discussed elsewhere in this big thread , just couldn't spot it. I'm not real excited about the gap between the IGO and the natural , mine is pretty large at least a few mm, if i never have to care about airflow is the top of the 510 I want to sand down, where the airflow slots are ? It seems like my center pin is also stopping the travel a bit , gonna try to back that off and still fit my battery too.
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Does anyone know if a vendor out there sells just the 18490/500 tube? I'd like to get one.
Yeah, you're gonna find that between different battery models and manufacturers. The basic dimensions are the standard, but there are variations.
If they have them in stock, GotVapes carries the 18500 tube by itself.
So, I closed it up a bit by backing off the pin, and now I can see that you just need to take that mm off the top of the 510, answered my own Q lol. Now to figure out the best way to do that.
It's been a long thread and I can't recall if you've done this or not.
On mine, the bottom pin was the issue. The way I checked it was to take off the top and see how far the battery could be pushed down, compressing the lower spring. On mine, it didn't push down at all. I removed the lower cap, the one that exposes the switch, and I was able to push the battery down 2 or 3 mm. That told me the pin was bottoming out in the bottom end cap. I used a dremel to cut mine down. I ground the bottom of the pin down just until the scewdriver slot went away, then checked it again. It was still a little long, so I took a little more off. Once I was satisfied the spring had full range of motion and the lower pin still functioned, I used the cut off wheel on the dremel to cut a new screwdriver slot. I'm betting on future revision you'll see they shorten that pin.
*EDIT*
When I say I checked if the bottom pin functioned, I mean I checked that it still went into the cap with no battery in place and the spring extended fully. The bottom cap stabilizes the pin, otherwise it would move when firing. Hope that makes sense.
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I don't think changing the bottom would help this at all. The bottom of the IGO is simply hitting the top of the 510 on the device and won't go down any further.
Backing the top screw back a few turns helped get me a mm or so, the rest can't be helped without taking the top of the 510 off in effect getting rid of the air slots. Which I don't think ill do cause I may be buying a killer 705 soon and I *think* you need them ?
What backing the pin off did do however is make it so the button top I got today doesn't quite fit. It creates a few gaps on the mod , which to honest I don't even mind that much. Shortening the bottom pin would probably help with that though.
Backing the top screw back a few turns helped get me a mm or so, the rest can't be helped without taking the top of the 510 off in effect getting rid of the air slots. Which I don't think ill do cause I may be buying a killer 705 soon and I *think* you need them ?
What backing the pin off did do however is make it so the button top I got today doesn't quite fit. It creates a few gaps on the mod , which to honest I don't even mind that much. Shortening the bottom pin would probably help with that though.
Grind the 510 collar down with a dremel grinding stone or a file. Add new air slots with a dremel cutting wheel, I also added a slot to the top of the positive post. After that is done you will most likely need to remove a few mm from the bottom of the positive post, and the top and bottom of the negative post to make room for your batteries, as I did. I took enough off to fit protected batts, which leaves unprotected high drains loose, so I have a piece of thick rubber from a carto cap stuck in the little hole on the bottom cap to act as a second spring. I'm not home to take a pic of that but I do have one of the top after I finished.
I don't think changing the bottom would help this at all. The bottom of the IGO is simply hitting the top of the 510 on the device and won't go down any further.
Backing the top screw back a few turns helped get me a mm or so, the rest can't be helped without taking the top of the 510 off in effect getting rid of the air slots. Which I don't think ill do cause I may be buying a killer 705 soon and I *think* you need them ?
What backing the pin off did do however is make it so the button top I got today doesn't quite fit. It creates a few gaps on the mod , which to honest I don't even mind that much. Shortening the bottom pin would probably help with that though.
Here's the bottom cap with carto cap rubber in the center hole, this keeps IMR's tight while allowing room for protected batts. I tried various solid objects of different length but the size discrepancy in batteries of the same make and type, and the length of different atty adapters brought me to this solution. Excuse the dirty noalox, time to clean my mod.
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I sanded mine so it's flush. I used coarse sandpaper instead of a file or dremel because I didn't want to chew up the top of the mod. Just put some coarse sandpaper on the table, take out the center screw, then sand away. Once you've sanded it flush screw your atomizer on then start working on the screw. I like to sand the screw on the top of the mod instead of the bottom pin. The reason being, if I mess something up or need a longer screw for some reason you can find those screws anywhere. Screw your body together without the top cap on. Make sure it's tight. Then back off the atomizer 3 turns in the top cap. Sand the screw, then check it by screwing it back in the top cap and screwing the top cap back on the body. Repeat until everything fits nicely. By doing the top screw you still have adjustability for other atomizers not just the one you used when doing this. When everything fits nicely clean it up with really fine sandpaper so it looks good.
I'm also kickin around the idea of sanding the body so all the seams dissappear. But I wanna wait a week or two before I fiddle with this thing again.
Forgot to mention I don't use the washer on the bottom post, mainly because it was causing stability issues on the post. I don't think you can get the full potential for adjustment at the bottom with that thing in place. Incidentally, I find the mod way easier to break down and set up when the whole post is able to drop right out of the mod when I turn it over, I think reassembling that post before was kind of a PITA.
Yeah it is. I usually use a hemostat clamp to get the screw started. It makes sense removing the washer. The only purpose it serves is to keep the pin from falling out if turned upside down with no battery. Not really an issue with me and it'll be easy enough to put back if it does. Yep, I'm leaving it out next time. I need to take it apart and measure inside the switch anyway, to see if it's possible to use magnets in it instead of a spring.
*EDIT*
Got it measured. It's going to be next to impossible to find magnets that will work. The magnets would need to be no more than 6.4mm wide, no more than 1.5mm thick, with a 4mm hole. There would only be room to use 2. I'm not even sure that would be enough material to have a strong enough field to act as a spring. Oh well.
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Someone mentioned using a rubber grommet or o-ring on the bottom to secure it. If dropping out is a big deal for someone, I think that is still a better option than the washer, especially since you can strip the chrome and have a completely brass contact where they connect.
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