I still think the original smoktech natural looked more like a GG then the new one they are coming out with, I prefer the flat tops over the coned shaped tops
SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device
- Thread starter Adam the Aussie
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I had to remove about 2mm from the bottom of the pin where the switch hits it. I did also take the switch apart and sand the part that touches the pin.
This is what I was getting at in the earlier post when I suggested the guy remove the cap. I took my bottom cap off and was able to tighten the rest down. The pin is indeed too long. I cut about 2mm off and added the slot back with a Dremel. I don't know about you, but my Dremel has been worth its weight in gold
I will make a new pin at base. I am not cutting up the stock parts yet.. Yes the dremel is a fine tool, also.I had to remove about 2mm from the bottom of the pin where the switch hits it. I did also take the switch apart and sand the part that touches the pin.
This is what I was getting at in the earlier post when I suggested the guy remove the cap. I took my bottom cap off and was able to tighten the rest down. The pin is indeed too long. I cut about 2mm off and added the slot back with a Dremel. I don't know about you, but my Dremel has been worth its weight in gold
Nice, I wanna do this as well. Sanding down the top and bottom of the very top screw, and sanding down the top of the bottom screw defenitaly reduced the voltage drop... but getting the side of the bottom pin and the back of the firing pin that touches the pin/pole/screw as well I think should help it even more.
Do you know how much of a gain you got from just that? I know most people are just sanding down the parts the battery and atomizer touches for the most part. Doing the firing section is an added step I'm thinking of doing. Not sure if its worth the reduction in voltage drop if its not that much though. I'm kinda new to following the drops I'm getting in mech mods.
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Nah, I never measured the difference. The main reason I took the switch apart was to see how it was made.
I'm not even sure if I could get it apart and back together, lol.
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18500 tube from e. vapers. I have 18350 flat tops, fitting with kick. No gaps. you are correct that you can remove the bottom, switch rod. Then cut 3-4 mm off of bottom. But when i removed this & say ..... is this itty bitty thread on here?? sits right over were the fire button runs threw tube & makes contact... I made a solid bottom battery rod, stainless is all i had. Now this hits great & kick is in flush.. If i can figure out how to post pix, i would. I did take pix, just so i will remember in the am. Oh with kick & all sealed up, it is under 4 inches long, took pix next to a bic lighter. Just a great Natural now. Satin finish aga t looks great resting on top. I did not cut top pin, but polished to brass.
Just got a natural today. How do you remove the negative screw? Not the switch but the screw that goes through the rubber disc in the bottom of the mod.
also...testing under load just from sanding the positive screw on both sides I saw a .25v increase. I think I read somewhere the button pin is solid stainless so I guess im only doing the negative and done. The spring so many seemed to dislike on mine is really soft so the chinese are listening
edit: found it...have to hold bolt with plyers and unscrew the little post from the bottom.
also...testing under load just from sanding the positive screw on both sides I saw a .25v increase. I think I read somewhere the button pin is solid stainless so I guess im only doing the negative and done. The spring so many seemed to dislike on mine is really soft so the chinese are listening
edit: found it...have to hold bolt with plyers and unscrew the little post from the bottom.
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Just got a natural today. How do you remove the negative screw? Not the switch but the screw that goes through the rubber disc in the bottom of the mod.
also...testing under load just from sanding the positive screw on both sides I saw a .25v increase. I think I read somewhere the button pin is solid stainless so I guess im only doing the negative and done. The spring so many seemed to dislike on mine is really soft so the chinese are listening
edit: found it...have to hold bolt with plyers and unscrew the little post from the bottom.
Yep, you got it. As for the switch, the part you push is stainless. It's threaded to the part that makes contact with the center pin, and that part is brass underneath the plating. It's pretty thinly plated, mine cleaned up nicely with a piece of autobody sandpaper. 400 grit, if I recall.
Hi guys.
i have a question about the natural... I would appreciate it if you could answer my question...
i have a flat top natural and i want to use it with 18350 battry and kick. Do i need an optional 18500 tube?
i have a question about the natural... I would appreciate it if you could answer my question...
i have a flat top natural and i want to use it with 18350 battry and kick. Do i need an optional 18500 tube?
Normally that would be the right solution. However I found the 18500 tube doesn't work all that well with the kick as there is a large gap required to get everything to fit. I'm using AW 18350 batteries. Perhaps others have had a better experience. It works ok just doesn't fit back together very well.
you need to cut the bottom pin to get a kick in the device with no seems. read back a few pages.. It will fit, i just am leaving mine with 18350 flat tops now, nice .8 ohm coil set up working fine.
Quick ? For you pros. I swear I've read most of this thread......just too lazy to dig. Sorry.
My natural doesn't fire every time I hit it...and the button gets warm sporadically.
It might fire 5 times in a row then nothing the next time. Then nothing, nothing, nothing, fire, nothing, fire fire....lol....get the point?
I sanded down the contacts....using AW imr 18650 batts with an Igo-l....
As far as the hot button goes....that's sporadic also. When it's in a fire every time mode, it might get hot....then not, not, not, hot hot, not...
I'm perplexed.
My natural doesn't fire every time I hit it...and the button gets warm sporadically.
It might fire 5 times in a row then nothing the next time. Then nothing, nothing, nothing, fire, nothing, fire fire....lol....get the point?
I sanded down the contacts....using AW imr 18650 batts with an Igo-l....
As far as the hot button goes....that's sporadic also. When it's in a fire every time mode, it might get hot....then not, not, not, hot hot, not...
I'm perplexed.
it could be a short this was happening to me when i first got the natrual and didnt adjust the center pin before screwing in my agat2.
but that was not intermittent it was fire or no fire.
Thanks guys....
Up on the center pin thingy....and I'm at 3.7 on a .9 ohm coil....soooooooo...
I sure this will come down to user error, because I have it on good authority(wife) that I'm a dumbass...lol...
Just don't get the sporadic activity.
Mech mod....fires or no...right?
I'm confused....and apparently a dumbass.....but I keep trying....
Up on the center pin thingy....and I'm at 3.7 on a .9 ohm coil....soooooooo...
I sure this will come down to user error, because I have it on good authority(wife) that I'm a dumbass...lol...
Just don't get the sporadic activity.
Mech mod....fires or no...right?
I'm confused....and apparently a dumbass.....but I keep trying....
I have had no fire.. not a warm button. reading other peoples results, the warm button is the bottom rod. It gets hit by the button contact. try an clean it with rubbing alcohol. IE wipe the button inner end & clean the bottom rod with alcohol. Also make sure the button is tight inside the lower tube. Some people said they found there button loosening in tube. HOT button is usually a poor contact some were, also no fire is poor contact. I hope you dont have my old wife, thats what she called me all the time.
Lol....
Thanks man. These are all good pointers.
I'll chase it down eventually.
Nope....I don't have your old wife. Just my old wife.
Hmmmmmm....do you think they ALL call us that? Lol...
Thanks again.
Sporadic firing and hot button sounds just like a short to me. I would reconnect the igo first, with the natural top cap off and positive pin screwed all the way down, when the igo is fully screwed in screw the natural pin up until it makes contact. If that doesn't work, check the coil, make a new one if necessary. This happens to me with an A7 all the time because it's stupid hot pin is so quirky, can't even get a steady resistance reading unless it's on a top cap. Heat in the mod is a dead giveaway. There's nothing I can think of on a natural that can short out unless someone had a staple or some other big metalic piece wedged above the battery.
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