I think he also meant 18500 as well. I can tell you the 18490 won't fit with the standard tubes that came with my Natural. It is about 1/4" shy of fitting. It was originally advertised to fit, but description was changed between the time I got a shipping notification and it actually arrived to me. Was very displeased to say the least because I purchased it with the intent of using the 18490 configuration. I don't regret buying it as it has been a very good APV for me, but had I known prior to purchase, I probably would've passed and went with something that did.
SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device
- Thread starter Adam the Aussie
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I think he also meant 18500 as well. I can tell you the 18490 won't fit with the standard tubes that came with my Natural. It is about 1/4" shy of fitting. It was originally advertised to fit, but description was changed between the time I got a shipping notification and it actually arrived to me. Was very displeased to say the least because I purchased it with the intent of using the 18490 configuration. I don't regret buying it as it has been a very good APV for me, but had I known prior to purchase, I probably would've passed and went with something that did.
How are you swapping tanks, do you just screw them on and go, or do you take the natural top cap off to adjust the positive pin? If it's the former, you're doing it blind and if the pin is adjusted too high it could push the tank's pin up and cause a short. You should remove top cap, loosen positive pin enough that none of your tanks would ever make contact, remove the tank, screw on new tank, tighten positive pin in until finger snug only, replace top cap and vape. 
How are you swapping tanks, do you just screw them on and go, or do you take the natural top cap off to adjust the positive pin? If it's the former, you're doing it blind and if the pin is adjusted too high it could push the tank's pin up and cause a short. You should remove top cap, loosen positive pin enough that none of your tanks would ever make contact, remove the tank, screw on new tank, tighten positive pin in until finger snug only, replace top cap and vape.
both tanks have the spring loaded pin, and worked fine without any adjusting earlier in the day. will try that out when i get home tonight. should i assume the batteries are toast?
Not necessarily, did they over-discharge and what chemistry are they? When it happens to me, I recharge them in a lipo-safe bag, haven't had one vent yet, although I've had a few protected Li-ions die completely in the past. If you recharge them, do it first in a place where a venting won't burn the house down, afterward keep an eye out for swelling or leaking, they could be fine. Disclaimer: they could be dangerous too so if you're not comfortable, don't take my advice, and only take it at your own risk.
Edit: I haven't seen a spring loaded pin but I imagine it could make it even more likely to push up and short, 1) because there's less resistance to avoid too much movement, 2) because it would be harder to judge when the the connection is tight enough to stop turning.
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as far as the spring loaded thing is concerned, do you think it would be worth testing via a 510-510 adapter instead of threading it directly into the mod?
as far as chemistry goes,these were the batteries used (18650 first, then 18350 after it cooled down)
18350 800mah 3.7v IMR LiMN Battery
Amazon.com: 4pcs Panasonic CGR18650CH 3.6 Volt Li-ion shipping free 18650 Battery 2250 mAh: Everything Else
as far as chemistry goes,these were the batteries used (18650 first, then 18350 after it cooled down)
18350 800mah 3.7v IMR LiMN Battery
Amazon.com: 4pcs Panasonic CGR18650CH 3.6 Volt Li-ion shipping free 18650 Battery 2250 mAh: Everything Else
That would be adding more to the equation, not to mention I've had this problem a few times simply by using an adapter. I would think my first suggestion would be good enough.
I'd be most worried about the 18650s. I have shorted those efest 350 flat tops without issue. YMMV
Search evilbay for lipo safe bag, refine it to US sellers, it would be one of the smartest $5 you've ever spent.
I'd be most worried about the 18650s. I have shorted those efest 350 flat tops without issue. YMMV
Search evilbay for lipo safe bag, refine it to US sellers, it would be one of the smartest $5 you've ever spent.
thanks for the suggestions. last question, would using a fresh 18350 be the best place to start with troubleshooting?
Ya, it would be wise to leave those others alone until your sure they didn't completely discharge and aren't ruined from the short (safe person's advice would be trash them now). The best way would be to use a multimeter to check for a short after you connect the tank and top cap, before the battery goes in. You can measure ohms on the underside of top cap when the tank is attached, by clipping the negetive onto the cap threads and touching the positive to the bottom of the positive pin. A short will read as zero or erratic ohms.
Sounds like you might have a short in the natural. How? Dunno. I've been chain vaping on mine (switch batteries when they drop to 3.8-3.9v) and the button hasn't ever gotten warm (no modifications). I don't know if battery terminal has to do with anything, but I've always made sure to drop them in positive side up. I'm using two EH IMR 2000mah 18650s on 1.8-2.0ohm coils (viva nova, CE4 V2, and mini vivi nova).
Take it apart and clean it, maybe some juice or other particulate is casing a short?
Take it apart and clean it, maybe some juice or other particulate is casing a short?
after reading all the warnings about this type of battery, i've been super careful with loading them in right and keeping an eye on them while they're charging. now that the fear of spontaneous combustion from hot batteries has passed, i can safely return to troubleshooting!
thanks for all the replies. you guys are NATURALS at this!
Yeah 18500 extension. The other batteries are too small and die in like 2 hours and the other size is too big.
This may need to be verified by a more experienced member, but I think I've read that the IMR batteries stop short(ing?) as soon as the pathing for the electricity dissapears, so removing it from the mod will prevent a leak/explosion if there hasn't already been one, even more so with a protected battery.
Speaking of a protected battery, why do I seem disclaimers and warnings to use them in VV/VW mods, but not mechanical?
Speaking of a protected battery, why do I seem disclaimers and warnings to use them in VV/VW mods, but not mechanical?
One reason would be that the ohms might be so low that the IC built into the top of the protected battery would see it as a short and cut off.
There are more.....
There are more.....
Or you could support the vaping community and purchase one from one of the best battery vendors... Battery Cases : Safe Charging Bag
I really don't understand the charging bags. It seems a huge majority of chargers plug into the wall, with no cord etc. They are supported entirely by the socket, in which case, there's no way to put them in a bag while charging.
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