Great thanks! Does the plastic disk adjust or remove? Also could you explain the sanding/modding the 510 pin? Hate to bother you. I dont seem to have any of these issues with my China GG or my Legacy.
Great thanks! Does the plastic disk adjust or remove? Also could you explain the sanding/modding the 510 pin? Hate to bother you. I dont seem to have any of these issues with my China GG or my Legacy.
Great thanks! Does the plastic disk adjust or remove? Also could you explain the sanding/modding the 510 pin? Hate to bother you. I dont seem to have any of these issues with my China GG or my Legacy.
I used two multimeter probes like chopsticks, in the holes of the disc from the underside and twisted it out through the top.Sanding is really not bad but it depends how patience u r lol... u can start with 400 grit then 800 to finish it... the plastic disk is there to hold ur negative post but im pretty sure it is removable if in the future u wish to mount ur post permanently at the bottom cap... but I havent tried to remove the disc yet but I am planning to put a permanent negative brass posthope that helps!
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not sure what caused the heat up initially, but after taking apart and reassembling, everything works fine. i took the 18650 that caused the initial problem out of the rotation for good, but ran the 18350 down to the point where it wouldn't fire on the natural, and it took just around the same time to charge as another one that was similarly drained.Sounds like you might have a short in the natural. How? Dunno. I've been chain vaping on mine (switch batteries when they drop to 3.8-3.9v) and the button hasn't ever gotten warm (no modifications). I don't know if battery terminal has to do with anything, but I've always made sure to drop them in positive side up. I'm using two EH IMR 2000mah 18650s on 1.8-2.0ohm coils (viva nova, CE4 V2, and mini vivi nova).
Take it apart and clean it, maybe some juice or other particulate is casing a short?
not sure what caused the heat up initially, but after taking apart and reassembling, everything works fine. i took the 18650 that caused the initial problem out of the rotation for good, but ran the 18350 down to the point where it wouldn't fire on the natural, and it took just around the same time to charge as another one that was similarly drained.
i'm assuming when i put the 18650 extension on, it was caused a constant battery connection and that's where the extreme heat came from.
It's not a good idea to let your batteries get that low, they don't like that. It's best to keep them at a fairly high charge, say, above 3.5 volts. I believe the minimum your supposed to drain them to is about 3.2.
It's not a good idea to charge lithium batteries on your wall, either.![]()
The difference is that charging batteries without a "safe" spot has a 1 in 100,000 chance of causing a problem, and over-draining your batteries has a nearly 1 in 1 chance of causing a problem, albeit more minor.
You're at 6 - 7.5w with those cartos and a normal 3.7v battery. Get a lower ohm carto or a Kick to bump up what you have now.
A 1.5 or 1.6 ohm carto would be around 9w for the bulk of the batteries life.
I wouldn't be too upset if I lost my natural in lieu of a SuperT.
I need to sand the top of mine down as well so things sit flush... for now I just have to use a plastic washer (which don't look very cool). I don't have a belt sander or anything like that... not sure if i can do it with just a loan piece of sandpaper and a block of wood.
View attachment 200156View attachment 200157
Sweet, looks like I'm gonna have to grab some sand paper on the way home then... how many steps do I need? Like 3 or so... I see you said 240, then finished with 400. Not sure how many steps in between (been a while since I sanded anything).
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