TY just got one, was looking for this xtra tube for a few weeks. Was letting my Natural idle, till i had batteries that fit with the kick. Now with flat tops coming, and this xtra tube. I should be able to get it running better. Till then, my bolt is fine with the kick.
SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device
- Thread starter Adam the Aussie
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I think I get the question, if he means 650 can you use the 500 tube to replace one of the shorter tubes to extend the length to accommodate a kick with a 650 battery.
Personally I'm looking to use a 350 with a kick so hopefully that works too...can anyone out there with a 500 tube verify this and the above question
On the smok Natural:
The bottom (switch section) + the top (510 connector section) provide 15mm
The center tubes are 20mm, 30mm, and the optional 34mm.
The bottom cap can be adjusted out a mm or so, and the pos pin in the top section has a half a mm (maybe more) adjustment room.
So, we use:
Seems that the 30mm + optional 34mm tubes would provide room for an 18650 + a Kick (with the bottom cap maybe gapped out 0.5 to 1mm depending upon the battery used).
The bottom (switch section) + the top (510 connector section) provide 15mm
The center tubes are 20mm, 30mm, and the optional 34mm.
The bottom cap can be adjusted out a mm or so, and the pos pin in the top section has a half a mm (maybe more) adjustment room.
So, we use:
- the 20mm tube for an 18350;
- the optional 34mm tube for an 18490/18500 (or an 18350+Kick);
- the 20mm + 30mm tubes for an 18650 (or an 18490+Kick).
Seems that the 30mm + optional 34mm tubes would provide room for an 18650 + a Kick (with the bottom cap maybe gapped out 0.5 to 1mm depending upon the battery used).
That's where I got mine since they had a cheap $2 shipping deal a week ago. Got Vapes has them as well.
:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
Hey fordski, looks like I'm gonna have to give a satin one a shot. I ended up dropping my natural today... the IGO-L took most of the hit, but the natural got a tiny one as well. I think I'll start with the IGO and see how that goes and if it will hide the scratch I made. I've got some kind of scotch bright pad at home, but I'm not sure if it's the right kind. It's the one you used the kinds solid hard side of the spoung that it's like ruff sand paper? Or is it the green side kind that have like ruff bird nest kinda threads all smooshed down? Not sure how good of a description that was, lol.
Here's the scratch I'm trying to get rid of... the one on the natural was to small for my phone camera to even show.
Hey fordski, looks like I'm gonna have to give a satin one a shot. I ended up dropping my natural today... the IGO-L took most of the hit, but the natural got a tiny one as well. I think I'll start with the IGO and see how that goes and if it will hide the scratch I made. I've got some kind of scotch bright pad at home, but I'm not sure if it's the right kind. It's the one you used the kinds solid hard side of the spoung that it's like ruff sand paper? Or is it the green side kind that have like ruff bird nest kinda threads all smooshed down? Not sure how good of a description that was, lol.
Here's the scratch I'm trying to get rid of... the one on the natural was to small for my phone camera to even show.
Haha nice description. The green side sounds like what I used. I've got a sheet of it I bought and cut up into the size I need. One thing I've learned is not to overwork it as it starts to get too shiny but still has marks on it. Good luck.
A sheet, humm... I got the one that's attached to the sponge. One side its a regular sponge, and the other side is the ruff stuff. It's made by scotch bright.
:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
Use the ruff stuff, it's the same as what I've got by the sheet...just no sponge stuck on the other side....
Well, the scotch bright I had didn't seem to do anything, so I tried out sand paper.
Before:
After:
Might need to try a higher grade and maybe spin it with the drill to get it a little more pro looking.
:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
Before:
After:
Might need to try a higher grade and maybe spin it with the drill to get it a little more pro looking.
:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
Looks like a good starting point. What grade sandpaper did you use? I want to do a couple of my AGA-T2s.
So I've had my natural and my RBA for about two weeks now. Loving it
How do you guys deal with this gap though?
The GAP between the atomizer and the mod
How do you guys deal with this gap though?
The GAP between the atomizer and the mod
U can adjust the gap by screwing the pin... also if u want it flush u can sand the top
... is that nimbus rba? It looks good on the natural!sent from mars
I started with 260, then 340, then 600. I think if I spin it with a drill and use the 600 it will come out nice. I might even try some 800 on it, but that might be to shiny looking.
:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
U can adjust the gap by screwing the pin... also if u want it flush u can sand the top
sent from mars
Sanding down the top is the best thing I ever did to this mod... it will force you to sand down the top screw as well since it will be to long after taking away the length of the 510 post that sticks up above the mod. But you'll get a better connection with less voltage drop from it, do it's a win win.
:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
I love the way the nimbus looks too, just trying to get it to sit flush. I ran hexa-coil in it but only 4 fired so I had to remove the other two and now only 3 coils are firing. Too lazy to fix it again so I just kept it. It's still excellent flavor and vapor (I can blot out the ceiling lights after one session of chain vaping) but vaping on 12-18mg hurts my throat and chest now so I'm vaping 6-9mg. First time running SLR and multiple coils, burns through juice like crazy.
1. "Screwing the pin" - This is the flat headed pin right under the mod cap right? Touching the positive terminal of the battery?
2. "Sand the top" - This is the positive terminal touching the ATOMIZER right?
3. "Sand down the top screws" - Ego adapter thread?
4. I have a lot of scratches in my Natural, is it possible to polish it out? What kind of polish?
1. "Screwing the pin" - This is the flat headed pin right under the mod cap right? Touching the positive terminal of the battery?
2. "Sand the top" - This is the positive terminal touching the ATOMIZER right?
3. "Sand down the top screws" - Ego adapter thread?
4. I have a lot of scratches in my Natural, is it possible to polish it out? What kind of polish?
I cleaned mine up nicely with a green scotch brite pad made for scrubbing pots. I use those for quite often when I need to scuff something up to paint it, or give something a brushed satin finish. Sanding the top means sanding the connector the atomizer screws into. I sanded mine down flush and cut air grooves in it and the top of the mod so it works fine with my vivi nova. Sanding the top screw means sanding the part that touches the positive terminal of the atomizer.
Sanding down the top so it will sit flush means sanding down the solid 510 threaded part that sticks up above the top of the mod. Its part of the mod and can't be unscrewed or removed. If you look at the mod from the side, its the part poping up above the mods flat top (the part you screw you nimbus into). Once you do this, your atomizers will flush with the top of the mod... but, it also means that you can't use atomizers that get air from the bottom anymore because they can't breath anymore since when the atty touches the top of the mod flush, it cuts off the air flow.
Once you do this, the screw inside of the 510 post you just sanded down is to long since you took off a good amount of length of it. So, if you can sand the screw down so it will be shorter to go with you new shorter 510 post. This also helps a lot to give a better connection since when you sand it down it will expose the brass that the inside of the screw was made with before it was coated. If you unscrew the top tube of your mod, you will see the underneeth of the screw (its got a line for a flat head screw driver). Just unscrew it all the way out and sand down both sides (the side your battery touches, and the side the bottom of your atomizer touches). Your gonna wanna take off more of the side the atty touches since if you take to much off the side with the line then a screwdriver won't work with it anymore. I used 340 grit paper, then finished with 600 grit so it was smooth. You'll start to see the brass color show threw after a wile. I recomend sanding off a bit, then putting it back in the mod to see if that was enough... you'll know if it wasn't enough if its screwed all the way in and there's still a gap between the mod and your atty... that means the screw is still to long.
Hope this answers some of your questions... not sure how clear I was, I'm at the DMV right now and a little frustrated.
:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
- Status
