SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device

[Joshuasculptor]

Or just buy some brass rod the same dia. and cut it to the same link + whatever. Slide it in-put carto on - push brass rod up and screw battery sleeve back together so it just puts pressure on the rod may have to ajdust the plastic disc near switch. you can just adjust it up and screw the screw all the way up as well if screw is long enough.

Just cut some slots for air with a Dremel. No need to buy anything.

 

[Joshuasculptor]

Looks very nice! Was this a drop-in piece, or did you have to mod the 'saw blade arbor hole'? And where would I locate such an item?
Thanks!

This was a diamond blade for a 4" grinder I work in a granite shop it was a little sloppy little I just used a little bit of ca glue (super glue) to hold it in place. Then I put it on my wood lathe and trimmed it up. The lathe part was over kill just faster. Definitely could all be done buy hand. I would look at lowes for a brass insert don't steal but if you find one on the side of the road you just grab the brass part wiggle it back and forth and it pops out.

 

[HOYO]

Cant stand the gap between atomizer and the battery tube. I sanded down the 510 connector. Sadly the gap moves down between the tubes. When I use button top battery, the gap is at least 1mm. I hve limited resources,really difficult to find a proper washer. Finally I come out like this: I use the spare rubber rings from my IGO-L. Bingo! It is perfect for me.

View attachment 221898

 

[Mitey F]

That's because you have to sand down the positive screw the same amount as the 510 connecter (usually about 0.020")

Cant stand the gap between atomizer and the battery tube. I sanded down the 510 connector. Sadly the gap moves down between the tubes. When I use button top battery, the gap is at least 1mm. I hve limited resources,really difficult to find a proper washer. Finally I come out like this: I use the spare rubber rings from my IGO-L. Bingo! It is perfect for me.

View attachment 221898

 

[Heavyrocker]

I didn't bother to take the nut off and switch. Jesus, imagine getting that bolt back in there? Instead I sanded my sh|t from the inside. Probably would have been quicker to to take the bolt off the switch. I still for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get the center rod out. It's like embedded in a piece of plastic. No idea how to get it out. Thought the rod might be threaded into each other on the top and bottom sides since they are both slotted. I sanded the rod by stuffing sandpaper inside and rotating the rod and holding the sandpaper against the rod with a screwdriver, turning the rod with another screwdriver. All to get .0000001 of a volt. LOL. Just bustin ya guys. If I didn't want a gain, I wouldn't have done it. I did both of mine.

The plastic inside circle cap with all the holes unscrews toward top of the mod,just get it started from the bottom with a small driver and the use a long paper clip from the top and wind it up too the top.

 

[Heavyrocker]

would these work with protected 18650 3000mah batteries?

DO NOT EVER use ''protected batts in a Mech Mod.

 

[VapingTurtle]

DO NOT EVER use ''protected batts in a Mech Mod.

I call misinformed misinformation here. (I prefer to use IMRs, but...) There is nothing wrong with using good quality protected ICRs in a mech as long as you are using a low current draw atty/carto.

But regardless of chemistry or protection circuits, please use a battery rated for a current draw (considerably) above your application.

 

[Heavyrocker]

I call misinformed misinformation here. (I prefer to use IMRs, but...) There is nothing wrong with using good quality protected ICRs in a mech as long as you are using a low current draw atty/carto.

But regardless of chemistry or protection circuits, please use a battery rated for a current draw (considerably) above your application.

I read that ''protected'' batts can explode like bomb if they malfuction as opposed to the safe chemistry batts which just vent gases,also the battery protection in ''protected batts produce less power than the high drain safe chemistry batts because of their circutry, so IMR`sare better and safer.Most vendors recommend high drain safe chemistry for Mechs.

 

[HOYO]

That's because you have to sand down the positive screw the same amount as the 510 connecter (usually about 0.020")

Yes! Thx for the great idea => samding down the positive screw! So simple! Thx again, bro.

 

[Kiva]

I didn't bother to take the nut off and switch. Jesus, imagine getting that bolt back in there? Instead I sanded my sh|t from the inside. Probably would have been quicker to to take the bolt off the switch. I still for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get the center rod out. It's like embedded in a piece of plastic. No idea how to get it out. Thought the rod might be threaded into each other on the top and bottom sides since they are both slotted. I sanded the rod by stuffing sandpaper inside and rotating the rod and holding the sandpaper against the rod with a screwdriver, turning the rod with another screwdriver. All to get .0000001 of a volt. LOL. Just bustin ya guys. If I didn't want a gain, I wouldn't have done it. I did both of mine.

I don't know if you figured this out yet ( I'm only on page 15 of the thread in Tapatalk) but the white plastic part that holds the negative post can be screwed out the top half of that section. I used a straightened paper clip to do so. It's pretty easy. Did the same thing to get it back in. And the negative pin does come apart. Just be careful with losing the small washer that's in there. I've heard of a couple people of doing so. Thank God I didn't. Lol.


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[Heavyrocker]

UPDATE:

The firing pin on the inside of my button seems like was not reaching the positive center post as solid as it was when i first got the Natural,what ive done is wrapped a thin piece of copper sheeting around the post too make a bit fatter,about 5 thousands/in thick.It does fire way better and it seems too affect the taste of my juice,maybe its firing more efficiently i dont know.The throw is shorted a tad too and it feels good and working great.BTW,copper is way better than brass as a conductor,except for silver,which is the best.

 

[Kiva]

UPDATE:

The firing pin on the inside of my button seems like was not reaching the positive center post as solid as it was when i first got the Natural,what ive done is wrapped a thin piece of copper sheeting around the post too make a bit fatter,about 5 thousands/in thick.It does fire way better and it seems too affect the taste of my juice,maybe its firing more efficiently i dont know.The throw is shorted a tad too and it feels good and working great.BTW,copper is way better than brass as a conductor,except for silver,which is the best.


View attachment 231497 View attachment 231498

Where did you get the copper ??


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[Kiva]

Hey guys I have a problem/question. I shaved down the bottom of the negative post with my dremel until the slot for a screwdriver was gone and used a cutting wheel to cut a new one in like I've read about so many other people doing.
I did this right before I left my house to pick my girl up and threw my AGA on and went out the door. It feels like it doesn't hit as hard now. There's a chance it's my atty because its had the same coil and wick in for awhile (am going to change it after I get my new RSST going tonight). So I'll check that when I get home. But any other ideas? Also could be battery. Lol. I need to eliminate those variables. But it didn't do this right before I sanded the post down.


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[Cyrus Vap]

buddies, it seems my natural has come apart and gone back together a few too many times

can someone confirm something for me...is the battery post supposed to have a spring between the flat screw portion and the white plastic disc? I noticed my batteries were all fitting loose then a I found a spring sitting on my vape desk...I dropped it in as above and everything is snug again LOL

 

[VapingTurtle]

buddies, it seems my natural has come apart and gone back together a few too many times

can someone confirm something for me...is the battery post supposed to have a spring between the flat screw portion and the white plastic disc? I noticed my batteries were all fitting loose then a I found a spring sitting on my vape desk...I dropped it in as above and everything is snug again LOL

Yes .

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Thanks Turtle!

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Err, here's another mystery

I finally got my switch assembly apart of the PV. How do you actually get the firing pin out of the housing? Seems there is a nasty rusty washer attached to my pin that is in the way?

EDIT: NM, got it.

 

[lagittaja]

Nowadays using a KFL+ on my Natural

 

[Heavyrocker]

My Natural is collecting dust ever since i got my Private V2 and the M16.

 

[muzichead]

I still rock my Natural w/ Rsst... It just works, and works well....