Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

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VAPNJ350

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Has anyone used the UltraFire 18350 1200 mAh batts in the Vax?



The VMAX is designed for HIGH DRAIN IMR batteries, and needs the constant/sustained amperage output that the IMR batteries have. The 18350 Ultrafire XSL's are a protected battery and don't have the amperage output needed for the VMAX. Most protected batteries have a constant amperage output of 3.2-4.5 Amps. A good/GREAT IMR battery has a Max Amperage output of 8-10 Amps and a sustained constant Amperage of 5-8 Amps. The ONLY battery I've tested that has a constant amperage output anywhere near a IMR battery is the AW ICR 2600,2900, & 3100maH or the Panasonic 3100maH. Which AW uses Panasonic cells for their batteries. A lot of people look at maH (miliamps per hour) and think if they have the highest maH rating in a battery they have the best battery for their device. Nothing could be more wrong. In a device case, like our application, you want ""AMPERAGE AMPERAGE AMPERAGE"". You would rather a 200maH battery with a amperage output of 10 amps or better over a 10,000 maH battery with a amperage output of 3 amps. High Drain batteries have less internal resistance than a protected battery which means they have a much higher Amperage output. A higher maH battery may last a little longer but your device is starving for the Amperage it needs and wants to give you the absolute best performance it can give you. BOTTOM LINE.....IF YOUR NOT USING AW OR ANOTHER GOOD IMR BATTERY YOUR ROBBING YOUR DEVICE OF ALL IT CAN DO. The VMAX is designed around the power and output Amperage of a IMR battery chemistry. ANALOGY... It's kinda like you putting the lowest crappiest 87 octane gas in a Racing Indy car that has to have 105+ octane race fuel just to start up. Heres a rule of thumb to go by and my personal motto. "" YOUR DEVICE WILL ONLY PERFORM AS GOOD AS THE POWER SOURCE RUNNING IT "" Don't go get a $100+ dollar mod and then cheap out on the batteries to run it. If people knew the pathetic amperage output numbers that trustfire,ultrafire,soshine,palight, etc... have they would never buy another. Do they work....yep, do they perform....NOPE!!! And believe me, their is a difference...a BIG difference. Ending point, spring the extra buck or 2 for a battery "worthy" of sliding in your expensive device. Take care everyone. ..............J

Oh yeah, almost forgot to answer the question and reason for my post, the ultrafire 18350 XSL (I think the ones your reffering to) are the same size as the crapfires, I mean trustfire 18350 1200maH and are a little too long for the VMAX. This is based on the batteries I have. The ultafire XSL 18350 & trustfire 18350, both 1200maH I believe. I bought both of these along with a few other brands after getting my VMAX's just to test and measure so I could answer questions just like this one to help get the correct info out there to my fellow VMAX users. ....Hope it helps ya keys.

***Would someone mind posting a link to this AVA Atty for me to check out, TIA***
 
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fuzzione

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The VMAX is designed for HIGH DRAIN IMR batteries, and needs the constant/sustained amperage output that the IMR batteries have. The 18350 Ultrafire XSL's are a protected battery and don't have the amperage output needed for the VMAX. Most protected batteries have a constant amperage output of 3.2-4.5 Amps. A good/GREAT IMR battery has a Max Amperage output of 8-10 Amps and a sustained constant Amperage of 5-8 Amps. The ONLY battery I've tested that has a constant amperage output anywhere near a IMR battery is the AW ICR 2600,2900, & 3100maH or the Panasonic 3100maH. Which AW uses Panasonic cells for their batteries. A lot of people look at maH (miliamps per hour) and think if they have the highest maH rating in a battery they have the best battery for their device. Nothing could be more wrong. In a device case, like our application, you want ""AMPERAGE AMPERAGE AMPERAGE"". You would rather a 200maH battery with a amperage output of 10 amps or better over a 10,000 maH battery with a amperage output of 3 amps. High Drain batteries have less internal resistance than a protected battery which means they have a much higher Amperage output. A higher maH battery may last a little longer but your device is starving for the Amperage it needs and wants to give you the absolute best performance it can give you. BOTTOM LINE.....IF YOUR NOT USING AW OR ANOTHER GOOD IMR BATTERY YOUR ROBBING YOUR DEVICE OF ALL IT CAN DO. The VMAX is designed around the power and output Amperage of a IMR battery chemistry. ANALOGY... It's kinda like you putting the lowest crappiest 87 octane gas in a Racing Indy car that has to have 105+ octane race fuel just to start up. Heres a rule of thumb to go by and my personal motto. "" YOUR DEVICE WILL ONLY PERFORM AS GOOD AS THE POWER SOURCE RUNNING IT "" Don't go get a $100+ dollar mod and then cheap out on the batteries to run it. If people knew the pathetic amperage output numbers that trustfire,ultrafire,soshine,palight, etc... have they would never buy another. Do they work....yep, do they perform....NOPE!!! And believe me, their is a difference...a BIG difference. Ending point, spring the extra buck or 2 for a battery "worthy" of sliding in your expensive device. Take care everyone. ..............J

Oh yeah, almost forgot to answer the question and reason for my post, the ultrafire 18350 XSL (I think the ones your reffering to) are the same size as the crapfires, I mean trustfire 18350 1200maH and are a little too long for the VMAX. This is based on the batteries I have. The ultafire XSL 18350 & trustfire 18350, both 1200maH I believe. I bought both of these along with a few other brands after getting my VMAX's just to test and measure so I could answer questions just like this one to help get the correct info out there to my fellow VMAX users. ....Hope it helps ya keys.

***Would someone mind posting a link to this AVA Atty for me to check out, TIA***


AVA Atomizer - YouTube

Expensive.
 

ukeman

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that's one vid and although revealing of an aspect of the AVA, a tendency to have great taste, but less vapor -- that's before getting it dialed in with proper break in, finding best voltage for the particular atty. She is NOT a dripper.

The AVA is a very good atty. It has drawbacks; as commented on in depth by MWA; i agree. But it is the atty with the ceramic coil of some sort, that is perhaps a great idea. It leaks - nand MWA suggests a design
fix for it.
Is it worth twice the cost of an HH357? at this point i don't think so, but if you are a NUT for good vaping, you'll spend the money for "research". I'm glad I did.

*The Vmax is kicking it (LR AVA 1.7 ohms) at 3.5v... getting best vapor so far, and great taste. I'm into my 3rd week, and I usually kill even a 357 in two weeks. I figure if i go 4 weeks I've got my money's worth... compared to analogs ($30+ a week).

There are a few places to get them: Innovapor (20% ecf discount), Thermovape (has the USA 510; only difference is it doesn't have the lip at the top so you can use drip shield, and fit in other applications just like a normal 510).
And Kokomopurevapors.... they have a vid too.
I like 'em, and that's after a couple weeks.... they are DIFFERENT, but the benefits are there.
 

fuzzione

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BTW my bottom cap is a bit grungy from the factory and now it's not seating perfectly. I'll take some alcohol and clean it and put some of that Noalox on threads and see what's up.
THe 18350's are small but take a long time to charge....btw

I've had no problem with my threads but can see they are comparatively delicate. Be careful everyone not to cross thread or strip them by turning the cap too tight. I put a small dab of dialectric grease on mine and it works great. I take some care in screwing / unscrewing the end cap by pushing back against the spring pressure each turn, just enough to unload most of the friction from the threads.

Just got my 4 - AW IMR 18350's from Super T Manufacturing. They're presently on the charger being topped up, having arrived with 3.94v in each cell. They fit perfectly in the end cap.
 

fuzzione

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that's one vid and although revealing of an aspect of the AVA, a tendency to have great taste, but less vapor -- that's before getting it dialed in with proper break in, finding best voltage for the particular atty. She is NOT a dripper.

The AVA is a very good atty. It has drawbacks; as commented on in depth by MWA; i agree. But it is the atty with the ceramic coil of some sort, that is perhaps a great idea. It leaks - nand MWA suggests a design
fix for it.
Is it worth twice the cost of an HH357? at this point i don't think so, but if you are a NUT for good vaping, you'll spend the money for "research". I'm glad I did.

*The Vmax is kicking it (LR AVA 1.7 ohms) at 3.5v... getting best vapor so far, and great taste. I'm into my 3rd week, and I usually kill even a 357 in two weeks. I figure if i go 4 weeks I've got my money's worth... compared to analogs ($30+ a week).

There are a few places to get them: Innovapor (20% ecf discount), Thermovape (has the USA 510; only difference is it doesn't have the lip at the top so you can use drip shield, and fit in other applications just like a normal 510).
And Kokomopurevapors.... they have a vid too.
I like 'em, and that's after a couple weeks.... they are DIFFERENT, but the benefits are there.

Interesting, thanks for the feedback ukeman. On a scale of 1-10 where would you put the AVA and the HH357 on the vmax?
 

ukeman

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Interesting, thanks for the feedback ukeman. On a scale of 1-10 where would you put the AVA and the HH357 on the vmax?

my scale: ymmv

10: just around the corner - don't know what but feel it coming

9.5 : HH357 V2

9: AVA; has potential to be the best, but it leaks, and long break in on this one only i have (2 weeks and it's better than ever!) It could be the #10 soon. imo. When it vapes really good, it's as good as, if not better than the 357.

7: Aero - i06

6: Cisco spec

5: conventional joye etc

btw i don't bother with any other APV for the AVA... won't do it. just the VMax
 

Thraizer

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I used dielectric grease also on my vmax threads, first thing I did when I got it after seeing how fine the threads are and its been working great also. I've been using it for 3 days and power level is still pretty good, 7.3v with AW IMR 18350's. Well I guess its lasting this long because I'm only vaping at 3.3v on a 3ohm carto with a liquinator tank. Made a mistake setting it at 4V with a 2ohm carto, lol it cleared my sinus really good and fast like one of them chinese mustard.
 

fuzzione

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VAPNJ350 is so right. Not that he needed my verification for this, but the genuine AW's are indeed light years ahead of the blue knock offs I was using. The blues would cry for mercy when depressing the v's fire button, dropping voltage as much as 1.1v on my 2.5ohm DCT cartos; meaning you get the 'lo' indicator prematurely imho. With the same carto the real deal AW's drop by a whopping 0.1v in comparison, shouting 'is that all you got?' to the now mesmerized vmax. Maybe a placebo effect but I swear the vape is also better. I notice more vapor production for one thing. If you're still on the fence about spending the extra few dollars for the real AW's then you ought to work harder at talking yourself into it.

VAPNJ, you have certainly distinguished yourself in this thread with your expertise and I for one feel lucky you're among us. I would like to formally apply as your Padawan learner :headbang:
 

Sedateme

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The VMAX is designed for HIGH DRAIN IMR batteries, and needs the constant/sustained amperage output that the IMR batteries have. The 18350 Ultrafire XSL's are a protected battery and don't have the amperage output needed for the VMAX. Most protected batteries have a constant amperage output of 3.2-4.5 Amps. A good/GREAT IMR battery has a Max Amperage output of 8-10 Amps and a sustained constant Amperage of 5-8 Amps. The ONLY battery I've tested that has a constant amperage output anywhere near a IMR battery is the AW ICR 2600,2900, & 3100maH or the Panasonic 3100maH. Which AW uses Panasonic cells for their batteries. A lot of people look at maH (miliamps per hour) and think if they have the highest maH rating in a battery they have the best battery for their device. Nothing could be more wrong. In a device case, like our application, you want ""AMPERAGE AMPERAGE AMPERAGE"". You would rather a 200maH battery with a amperage output of 10 amps or better over a 10,000 maH battery with a amperage output of 3 amps. High Drain batteries have less internal resistance than a protected battery which means they have a much higher Amperage output. A higher maH battery may last a little longer but your device is starving for the Amperage it needs and wants to give you the absolute best performance it can give you. BOTTOM LINE.....IF YOUR NOT USING AW OR ANOTHER GOOD IMR BATTERY YOUR ROBBING YOUR DEVICE OF ALL IT CAN DO. The VMAX is designed around the power and output Amperage of a IMR battery chemistry. ANALOGY... It's kinda like you putting the lowest crappiest 87 octane gas in a Racing Indy car that has to have 105+ octane race fuel just to start up. Heres a rule of thumb to go by and my personal motto. "" YOUR DEVICE WILL ONLY PERFORM AS GOOD AS THE POWER SOURCE RUNNING IT "" Don't go get a $100+ dollar mod and then cheap out on the batteries to run it. If people knew the pathetic amperage output numbers that trustfire,ultrafire,soshine,palight, etc... have they would never buy another. Do they work....yep, do they perform....NOPE!!! And believe me, their is a difference...a BIG difference. Ending point, spring the extra buck or 2 for a battery "worthy" of sliding in your expensive device. Take care everyone. ..............J

Oh yeah, almost forgot to answer the question and reason for my post, the ultrafire 18350 XSL (I think the ones your reffering to) are the same size as the crapfires, I mean trustfire 18350 1200maH and are a little too long for the VMAX. This is based on the batteries I have. The ultafire XSL 18350 & trustfire 18350, both 1200maH I believe. I bought both of these along with a few other brands after getting my VMAX's just to test and measure so I could answer questions just like this one to help get the correct info out there to my fellow VMAX users. ....Hope it helps ya keys.

***Would someone mind posting a link to this AVA Atty for me to check out, TIA***

Good post. To the best of my understanding, it's the C rating of the AW IMR that makes it the best viable choice. How many amps that translates to is directly related to the mah of whatever size battery you are looking at. Instead of saying "AMPERAGE AMPERAGE AMPERAGE" it might be more accurate to say "DISCHARGE RATE DISCHARGE RATE DISCHARGE RATE". It's a small distinction, but an important one.
 

vpsi333

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I've not really tracked my juice usage, but I would guess somewhere around 45 to 50 ml a week. My local supplier is not really stocking any VV APV's other than the EGO Booster. He got me this Howitzer/US-Sub thingy (18650) and told me he had something else coming. Hell little uninformed me purchased 3 of those Panasonic 18650's and a 1A charger online so I’d have battys when it got here (I'm sorta leery/old school on this internet buying thing, I like to touch what I’m paying for). I'd not heard of the Vmax when I got my 1st one, and tried to use the 18650 which would light the LED but not fire my carto. I found out on this forum that it uses 2x 18350’s, but I let it sit in the box until these good reviews started showing up. I went back and brought the other Vmax, and asked him to get me 4 batt’s. They showed up last week, they were not AW’s; the chargers are only .45A, but WOW what a vape. 1 set of batty’s run down before the others are charged and I use my others devices in-between but they now seem inadequate/ unsatisfying.
 

PaulieD

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The VMAX is designed for HIGH DRAIN IMR batteries, and needs the constant/sustained amperage output that the IMR batteries have. The 18350 Ultrafire XSL's are a protected battery and don't have the amperage output needed for the VMAX. Most protected batteries have a constant amperage output of 3.2-4.5 Amps. A good/GREAT IMR battery has a Max Amperage output of 8-10 Amps and a sustained constant Amperage of 5-8 Amps. The ONLY battery I've tested that has a constant amperage output anywhere near a IMR battery is the AW ICR 2600,2900, & 3100maH or the Panasonic 3100maH. Which AW uses Panasonic cells for their batteries. A lot of people look at maH (miliamps per hour) and think if they have the highest maH rating in a battery they have the best battery for their device. Nothing could be more wrong. In a device case, like our application, you want ""AMPERAGE AMPERAGE AMPERAGE"". You would rather a 200maH battery with a amperage output of 10 amps or better over a 10,000 maH battery with a amperage output of 3 amps. High Drain batteries have less internal resistance than a protected battery which means they have a much higher Amperage output. A higher maH battery may last a little longer but your device is starving for the Amperage it needs and wants to give you the absolute best performance it can give you. BOTTOM LINE.....IF YOUR NOT USING AW OR ANOTHER GOOD IMR BATTERY YOUR ROBBING YOUR DEVICE OF ALL IT CAN DO. The VMAX is designed around the power and output Amperage of a IMR battery chemistry. ANALOGY... It's kinda like you putting the lowest crappiest 87 octane gas in a Racing Indy car that has to have 105+ octane race fuel just to start up. Heres a rule of thumb to go by and my personal motto. "" YOUR DEVICE WILL ONLY PERFORM AS GOOD AS THE POWER SOURCE RUNNING IT "" Don't go get a $100+ dollar mod and then cheap out on the batteries to run it. If people knew the pathetic amperage output numbers that trustfire,ultrafire,soshine,palight, etc... have they would never buy another. Do they work....yep, do they perform....NOPE!!! And believe me, their is a difference...a BIG difference. Ending point, spring the extra buck or 2 for a battery "worthy" of sliding in your expensive device. Take care everyone. ..............J

Oh yeah, almost forgot to answer the question and reason for my post, the ultrafire 18350 XSL (I think the ones your reffering to) are the same size as the crapfires, I mean trustfire 18350 1200maH and are a little too long for the VMAX. This is based on the batteries I have. The ultafire XSL 18350 & trustfire 18350, both 1200maH I believe. I bought both of these along with a few other brands after getting my VMAX's just to test and measure so I could answer questions just like this one to help get the correct info out there to my fellow VMAX users. ....Hope it helps ya keys.

***Would someone mind posting a link to this AVA Atty for me to check out, TIA***

This is simple, precise and easy to understand...thank you so much!!
 

Errol

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I've not really tracked my juice usage, but I would guess somewhere around 45 to 50 ml a week. My local supplier is not really stocking any VV APV's other than the EGO Booster. He got me this Howitzer/US-Sub thingy (18650) and told me he had something else coming. Hell little uninformed me purchased 3 of those Panasonic 18650's and a 1A charger online so I’d have battys when it got here (I'm sorta leery/old school on this internet buying thing, I like to touch what I’m paying for). I'd not heard of the Vmax when I got my 1st one, and tried to use the 18650 which would light the LED but not fire my carto. I found out on this forum that it uses 2x 18350’s, but I let it sit in the box until these good reviews started showing up. I went back and brought the other Vmax, and asked him to get me 4 batt’s. They showed up last week, they were not AW’s; the chargers are only .45A, but WOW what a vape. 1 set of batty’s run down before the others are charged and I use my others devices in-between but they now seem inadequate/ unsatisfying.

My VMax hasn't arrived yet but I have several other VV units and for certain any 3.7v PV is "inadequate/ unsatisfying" after any halfway decent VV unit. :)

Errol
 

Thraizer

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I've been vaping on the vmax all day and notice something weird. Vmax power level is at 6.7v according to the voltage check option. I switched option to see how much voltage drop during a 5second vape and saw a drop of 6.6v-6.5v then the voltage goes up to 6.7..6.8..6.9..7.0..7.1, well it doesn't really skyrocket up but kinda gradually cycle up. Then I go to the option for voltage check and its at 7.1v :confused: You would think it would drain the battery but it kinda gained .4v This is with aw imr 18350's and 3ohm boge carto/liquinator tank vaping at 3.4v
 

ukeman

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Btw, I think I messed my threads up... Maybe not permanent but when i screw the cap on with batts, it doesn't snug right. 1 mm lopsided gap. I cleaned and treated it and same... With pressure from spring it's hard to custom snug it. Comes out the same each time..
OK this is my first gripe.. The threads are too dang thin. I think a decent DIY'er could fix it but that's not me.

I am getting hooked on the AVA VMax combo!
Look for a Provari in the classies soon.. These attys are too expensive to have so many VV's, although IMO they require VV.
It may very well be my imagination and tendency toward superstition, but theVMax is "The APV" for my AVA.
 

fuzzione

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Btw, I think I messed my threads up... Maybe not permanent but when i screw the cap on with batts, it doesn't snug right. 1 mm lopsided gap. I cleaned and treated it and same... With pressure from spring it's hard to custom snug it. Comes out the same each time..
OK this is my first gripe.. The threads are too dang thin. I think a decent DIY'er could fix it but that's not me.

I am getting hooked on the AVA VMax combo!
Look for a Provari in the classies soon.. These attys are too expensive to have so many VV's, although IMO they require VV.
It may very well be my imagination and tendency toward superstition, but theVMax is "The APV" for my AVA.

Well that sucks and I agree with your gripe. You'd think with the number of times the cap has to go on and off during the life of the device, they'd have made them a little more robust. This area is definitely an Achilles heel. Fortunately I became aware of this so took the necessary precautions from the start. If you found the right sized steel nut and bolt you could conceivably thread them on and off thus realigning the threads. Just a thought.
 

fuzzione

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Good post. To the best of my understanding, it's the C rating of the AW IMR that makes it the best viable choice. How many amps that translates to is directly related to the mah of whatever size battery you are looking at. Instead of saying "AMPERAGE AMPERAGE AMPERAGE" it might be more accurate to say "DISCHARGE RATE DISCHARGE RATE DISCHARGE RATE". It's a small distinction, but an important one.

Just a quick update on my new AW's. They have far exceeded my expectations. I'm now 6 hours beyond the point I had to recharge my blue knock offs and the AW's are still registering 7.2v. So there is no question the better discharge rate translates into increased vaping time vs. less efficient cells. Again, I don't chain vape and the blue imr's would normally last me 24 hours with my vaping habits. And to think they'll only get better after the 4th or 5th charge. I'm amazed really. Although I expected increased performance, I did not expect anything this dramatic. Oh....the blue imr's were 'rated' 800mah whilst the AW's are 700mah. Just goes to show you how some published numbers can be meaningless in real world applications.
 

VAPNJ350

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Interesting, thanks for the feedback ukeman. On a scale of 1-10 where would you put the AVA and the HH357 on the vmax?


Fuzzi, in a 1 word sum up...... OVERPRICED......WAY OVERPRICED!!!!!!! .......thats just outright insane for 1 atty I, don't care how long it "might" last. Thats just crazy, I thought the HH357 was high.
 
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