After 2 years of being in this and before Vari Voltage was even released (other than stacking 2, 3 volt batteries to get 6v) their was no "variable" voltage", the very 1st device that did have multiple voltage settings and is considered a "multi-volt" design was/is the 'fistpak". I have 4 of them, 3 of them I built myself to make them more efficient and give them an added 5.5 volt setting just for kicks. Now for my point. You ever notice what Ω (ohm) atomizers come in every V V device kit ? 3 & 3.2Ω, not 2Ω, not any DC's. Why? Mainly because a 3.0 or 3.2Ω atty is more efficient on a V V Device. And the Device can be used in it's entire range of voltages (for the most part), I think/feel 5.2v -6v is a little too much to ask of a 3.0Ω atty/carto but people do it. I just usually get a burnt taste at 5v on a 2.8-3.0Ω carto. All atty/cartos at 3.0Ω and up are/were made/designed for a VV Device. Just like LR (Low Resistance was "1st/Originally" made and designed for 3.7v devices to simulate a 5v vape, plus that's really all you could use them on anyway cause their were NO V V Devices at that time. Am I saying you can't use LR on a VV .....No way....people do and some prefer it and really like it. Is it ideal ? .....Not in "my opinion". It takes awaty from battery life and your voltage range is now limited and somewhat completely defeating the purpose of buying a V V Device in the 1st place.(my opinion again) A lot of new, "green" vapers are getting some mis-information it seems by thinking they should get the lowest resistance atty/carto then get a V V device and use the highest voltage they can with it to get the best vape, the most vapor, and the best throat hit. And then left wondering why every draw they take is "burnt". They burn up every carto/atty they use and then assume it's a bad batch or brand of cartos. Nothing could be further from the truth, they just had a less than desirable setup. Any VV Device with a 3 or 3.2Ω carto @ 4.3v is a VERY satisfying vape in flavor, vapor production, and TH. And keeps efficiency and "full" funtionality of the device with no limitations. DC's at 2.0Ω or higher are also a nice alternative with a V V Device "if" the Amperage limit is high enough to accommodate it. The LT V1, was a fairly decent unit with a 3 or 3.2Ω single coil atty/carto. As soon as you put a LR or DC on it the unit crashed to a whopping 3.52v underload no matter what voltage you had it set on. Thats not real good in my opinion....BUT it also came with 2, 3.2Ω atomizers which is what the unit was designed for, with those or cartos in the same ohm resistance the V1 LT performed as it was made to.....pretty well. That being said, their were an abundance of people who griped and complained about the LT V1 not being able to push DC's to a even halfway reasonable vape. I didn't disagree yet I might not have been as verbal and outspoken as others...but agreed none the less. ..................Then..........da da da daaaaaaaaaaaa!!!! Smoktech listened to all those complaints.........and started to put their engineers to work. 9 months later, give or take, THE VMAX WAS BORN. This device pushed DC's (which are made also by Smoktech) like no other device on the market to date. And with little to no drop in voltage underload. Where a lot of others failed miserably, the VMAX used a PWM tuning slope that is so mind boggling that from a $80 dollar to a $3400 dollar Oscilloscope couldn't really keep up with it. But the AVG Voltage was dead on. BUT....if you want to push a 1.5Ω Dual Coil at 3,4,5,or yes 6 VOLTS......Their is now a device that will do it without even a hickup, and it's called the Smoktech VMAX. Although I highly recommend using a 2.0 or 2.5Ω DC instead of the 1.5Ω but only because it's such a nice satisfying vape. I hope everyone enjoyed my ......whatever you want to call this......useless information maybe ????
Sorry it was so lengthy....I honestly meant it to be like 4 statements.......how does this happen.....lol .... Take care ALL !!!
WAAAALLLL OF TEEEEEEEXT...MY EEEEYYYYYYEZZZZZ
