Apparently, there were a couple of 'cancellations' in Sheks new(er) ZMax co-op. May be filled already, but never know.
Already have an excuse. I want one![]()
Already have an excuse. I want one![]()
My not so expert opinion regarding the RAs and the VMax/ZMax (will be receiving ZMax soon), is that any variation in OHM reading may put the circuitry into confusion. It's trying to figure out 'ok, how much power should I be feeding this thing?'. I have noticed on many of the mesh wicks I have built, and even with some of the fiber wicks I have built, the initial OHM reading on my ProVari starts out quite low, and then shoots up to what it reads after the coils get warmer. I have moved toward the most uniform winds that I can get and see less of it happening. On the mesh I have been using the cig paper and tight winds, and on the fiber wick I have been using a spacer rod quite a bit thicker than a thick paper clip also with tighter winds. Still experimenting here, so YMMV.
One other tidbit of a suggestion I found, and can't remember if I saw it on this thread, is to 'break in' the new coil assembly on another PV for a bit before using on a VMax/ZMax (maybe also a ProVari, can't recall). Anyways, thought I'd throw that in.
I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.
Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.
I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.
Please help.
I had to rebuild a wick and coil on my DID today and for the first time I got this dreaded buzzing. Any further info on this from your ST contacts J????
I've been attempting to troubleshoot this myself and thus far have concluded that the buzzing happens when shorts/hot spots are present on the coil. Also, it appears to get worse as the board heats up from repeated use. Buzzing disappears when the vmax (v1) is left alone to cool right down but repeated use seems to promote progressively louder buzzing as the vmax heats up. I suspect some of the heat is being transferred to the board from the hot DID, through the positive pin, and the vmax doesn't like that.
Anyone else with this problem? I'll take a stab at reoxidizing my wick and see if eliminating shorts might correct this.
Change and check each battery,
Try a diff carto
Could just be a short in the carto, maybe vaping too hot melting the connections
I've changed and checked the batteries and it does it with any 1.5 dc carto.
I had to rebuild a wick and coil on my DID today and for the first time I got this dreaded buzzing. Any further info on this from your ST contacts J????
I've been attempting to troubleshoot this myself and thus far have concluded that the buzzing happens when shorts/hot spots are present on the coil. Also, it appears to get worse as the board heats up from repeated use. Buzzing disappears when the vmax (v1) is left alone to cool right down but repeated use seems to promote progressively louder buzzing as the vmax heats up. I suspect some of the heat is being transferred to the board from the hot DID, through the positive pin, and the vmax doesn't like that.
Anyone else with this problem? I'll take a stab at reoxidizing my wick and see if eliminating shorts might correct this.
Change and check each battery,
Try a diff carto
Could just be a short in the carto, maybe vaping too hot melting the connections
I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.
Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.
I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.
Please help.
Can anyone help or add anything?
Change and check each battery,
Try a diff carto
Could just be a short in the carto, maybe vaping too hot melting the connections
I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.
Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.
I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.
Please help.
It's very odd that the difference between your DC's working or not is dependent on whether the screen display is set to on or off. What type of batteries are you using?
Perhaps check to see that your battery cap spring is seated properly.
Also possible the cartos are not connecting properly; try moving the carto pin a bit.
Though I love my ss vmax, I've had a sour taste of ST when I look at my yet to mod tank, if I end up getting the zmax at a later date and pay a little extra, I'll consider it the price for the beta testing that'll be done by any and all first geners. A service if you will, but I'm not completely sold on vw yet, at this point the vario looks more appealing.
I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.
Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.
I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.
Please help.
Can anyone help or add anything?
"IF" it does this all the time on every 1.5Ω then it has a defective chip on the actual board. This wouldn't be Smoktech's fault but the actual maker of the single chip that has the issue. I would love to be able to tell you exactly what it is but without the board being in front of me and testing every chip, resistor, capacitor, isolator, regulator, etc.... on the board I can only speculate which I really hate doing. IF it were me I would return it for a replacement. And get the new SS blue led eGo top V3. I've got this 1 but with a red button led and blue screen and it really it far better in every way than the other 5 previous units I have.