Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

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fuzzione

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My not so expert opinion regarding the RAs and the VMax/ZMax (will be receiving ZMax soon), is that any variation in OHM reading may put the circuitry into confusion. It's trying to figure out 'ok, how much power should I be feeding this thing?'. I have noticed on many of the mesh wicks I have built, and even with some of the fiber wicks I have built, the initial OHM reading on my ProVari starts out quite low, and then shoots up to what it reads after the coils get warmer. I have moved toward the most uniform winds that I can get and see less of it happening. On the mesh I have been using the cig paper and tight winds, and on the fiber wick I have been using a spacer rod quite a bit thicker than a thick paper clip also with tighter winds. Still experimenting here, so YMMV.

One other tidbit of a suggestion I found, and can't remember if I saw it on this thread, is to 'break in' the new coil assembly on another PV for a bit before using on a VMax/ZMax (maybe also a ProVari, can't recall). Anyways, thought I'd throw that in.

Good ideas and suggestions, thanks TBin.
 

Phoenix07013

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Though I love my ss vmax, I've had a sour taste of ST when I look at my yet to mod tank, if I end up getting the zmax at a later date and pay a little extra, I'll consider it the price for the beta testing that'll be done by any and all first geners. A service if you will, but I'm not completely sold on vw yet, at this point the vario looks more appealing.
 

BlueSnake

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I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.

Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.

I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.

Please help.
 

Phoenix07013

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I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.

Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.

I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.

Please help.

Change and check each battery,
Try a diff carto
Could just be a short in the carto, maybe vaping too hot melting the connections
 

Cyrus Vap

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I do have the problem, and that's why I gave up. Only with mesh though.

I refuse to think my set up(s) are 'off' in anyway. In fact I would say without hesitation they are perfect. I've shed enough blood and sweat on SS to say that without shame.

I blame the Vmax. When there is an issue, the Provari and Multimeter, and my taste buds, all agree. Its only the Vmax that creates the issue.

Just my pennies.

I had to rebuild a wick and coil on my DID today and for the first time I got this dreaded buzzing. Any further info on this from your ST contacts J????

I've been attempting to troubleshoot this myself and thus far have concluded that the buzzing happens when shorts/hot spots are present on the coil. Also, it appears to get worse as the board heats up from repeated use. Buzzing disappears when the vmax (v1) is left alone to cool right down but repeated use seems to promote progressively louder buzzing as the vmax heats up. I suspect some of the heat is being transferred to the board from the hot DID, through the positive pin, and the vmax doesn't like that.

Anyone else with this problem? I'll take a stab at reoxidizing my wick and see if eliminating shorts might correct this.
 

Phoenix07013

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I've changed and checked the batteries and it does it with any 1.5 dc carto.

Any voltage in particular? Or just all around?
The only thing I can think of is the board's protection is off, and instead of the f1 error, you get what you get.
I'm only speculating here, I hope someone else can chime in.
 

donesmokin

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I had to rebuild a wick and coil on my DID today and for the first time I got this dreaded buzzing. Any further info on this from your ST contacts J????

I've been attempting to troubleshoot this myself and thus far have concluded that the buzzing happens when shorts/hot spots are present on the coil. Also, it appears to get worse as the board heats up from repeated use. Buzzing disappears when the vmax (v1) is left alone to cool right down but repeated use seems to promote progressively louder buzzing as the vmax heats up. I suspect some of the heat is being transferred to the board from the hot DID, through the positive pin, and the vmax doesn't like that.

Anyone else with this problem? I'll take a stab at reoxidizing my wick and see if eliminating shorts might correct this.

Mine was buzzing last night with a 2.23 ohm single coil carto in a tank. It quit buzzing at some point. I thought maybe it was because of a fresh set of batteries but it's not doing it now with new batts. The carto was fairly new when I put it on the VMAX, maybe that was it. I'm at a loss!?!?!
 

fuzzione

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Success! I've solved my DID/Vmax buzzing problem and I hope this helps anyone else in the same predicament.

It was the center positive pole of the DID. If the bottom connector does not protrude far enough out it creates a short. I discovered this accidently as I was rocking the DID a little back and forth on the vmax....you could hear the buzzing start and stop. I took the DID off and adjusted the center pin so it sticks out just a hair further out the bottom and presto. Buzzing stopped, ohm reading stabilized and it's perfect once again. Vaping like a bloody steam engine in fact.

After cleaning and reassembling my DID last time I must have tightened the bottom nut a little too much, forcing the bottom connector up the shaft too far.

So check those positive posts if you're experiencing an unwanted buzz :)

I intentionally reproduced this phenomenon by deliberately overtightening that nut and sure enough, the buzzing was back. Adjusting the center post cured the problem. I shudder to think what I've put the poor circuit board through all this time but it's still alive and functioning beautifully!
 

Ravenscroft

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I had my first buzzing just yesterday and found by rocking whilst vaping would make it go away.

I thought it maybe some harmonic at work. I made another coil of higher ohms and it doesn't do it anymore.

I didn't do anything about the center post though. I will try this if it happens again.

Thanks for your findings.

RC
 

BlueSnake

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Change and check each battery,
Try a diff carto
Could just be a short in the carto, maybe vaping too hot melting the connections

I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.

Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.

I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.

Please help.

Can anyone help or add anything?
 

fuzzione

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Can anyone help or add anything?

It's very odd that the difference between your DC's working or not is dependent on whether the screen display is set to on or off. What type of batteries are you using?

Perhaps check to see that your battery cap spring is seated properly.

Also possible the cartos are not connecting properly; try moving the carto pin a bit.
 

BlueSnake

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Change and check each battery,
Try a diff carto
Could just be a short in the carto, maybe vaping too hot melting the connections

I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.

Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.

I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.

Please help.

It's very odd that the difference between your DC's working or not is dependent on whether the screen display is set to on or off. What type of batteries are you using?

Perhaps check to see that your battery cap spring is seated properly.

Also possible the cartos are not connecting properly; try moving the carto pin a bit.

I have AW & Efest. It doesn't matter which batteries it still does it. I have tried adjusting the center pin and it's any 1.5ohm carto. This just started last night.
 

VAPNJ350

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Though I love my ss vmax, I've had a sour taste of ST when I look at my yet to mod tank, if I end up getting the zmax at a later date and pay a little extra, I'll consider it the price for the beta testing that'll be done by any and all first geners. A service if you will, but I'm not completely sold on vw yet, at this point the vario looks more appealing.



The vario is using the same basis and basic chipset as the VMAX,just with a 18650. The Zmax is a whole different device than the VMAX.....trust me, it really is.
 

VAPNJ350

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I have a Zmax v2 red LED with an issue and wanted to know if anyone else has seen this.

Tonight using a DCT with a LR 1.5v carto I got the 123456789 reset for the first time. It doesn't do it with sr cartos. Then if I turn ON the display the LR carto works, but as soon as I turn off the display I get the error again with the lr carto. When this was happening I also noticed the whole Vmax was heating up.

I know, I know, I should be using sr or higher cartos, but I just had a few lr and was using them up.

Please help.




Don't you mean 'V'max...not 'Z'max. 'Z's only have "blue" LED's.
 

VAPNJ350

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Can anyone help or add anything?

"IF" it does this all the time on every 1.5Ω then it has a defective chip on the actual board. This wouldn't be Smoktech's fault but the actual maker of the single chip that has the issue. I would love to be able to tell you exactly what it is but without the board being in front of me and testing every chip, resistor, capacitor, isolator, regulator, etc.... on the board I can only speculate which I really hate doing. IF it were me I would return it for a replacement. And get the new SS blue led eGo top V3. I've got this 1 but with a red button led and blue screen and it really it far better in every way than the other 5 previous units I have.
 

BlueSnake

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"IF" it does this all the time on every 1.5Ω then it has a defective chip on the actual board. This wouldn't be Smoktech's fault but the actual maker of the single chip that has the issue. I would love to be able to tell you exactly what it is but without the board being in front of me and testing every chip, resistor, capacitor, isolator, regulator, etc.... on the board I can only speculate which I really hate doing. IF it were me I would return it for a replacement. And get the new SS blue led eGo top V3. I've got this 1 but with a red button led and blue screen and it really it far better in every way than the other 5 previous units I have.

That's what I was thinking. I've already submitted a trouble ticket to the vendor. And you're right it is a Vmax.
 
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