I'm thinking about purchasing an smpl amod clone, I would like to know if anyone has experience with them and can let me know which finish has the least voltage drop?
smpl amod voltage drop
- Thread starter kellybomer
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I have the black over brass A-mod SMPL and a copper SMPL clone of unknown manufacture. Both have the brass snap ring switches. Using the same battery (fairly new VTC4) and same rda built to .21ohm, the black over brass had a drop of 0.58 and the copper 0.64. Testing was performed with a cheap inline voltmeter. I guess it should be noted the copper clone was several months old at the time and had never been cleaned. The black A-mod was only about a week old at the time.
What's the lowest (build) u would go on the black over brass without it getting hot using vtc5's?
I usually run mine ~.20-.25. Never an issue with VTC4/5 or Samsung 25R.
Copper will have the least voltage drop, followed by either Brass or aluminum. Stainless or coated/plated contacts will result in the most. The more points of connection the more drop will be evident, More pieces equals more resistance.
I love my SMPL clone...... stainless steel. I frequently drop my mods and was worried about damage. There have been reports of the Copper tubes getting bent in an "oval" shape since copper is a soft metal. I know that I've dropped my SS numerous times. It has dings on the end but hasn't warped enough to affect unscrewing the switch. Love it.
The voltage drop between the difference in metals is something like hundredth's of an ohm. Your battery is touching your atomizer and the switch (spring loaded) has this huge brass plate for battery contact. I've used the SMPL clone for months now and have NEVER got a hot switch. This is a big plus coming from other mods where you have a little contact point that you frequently have to polish so you don't have corrosion and shorting issues.
I'm not going back to the telescoping tube days where threadings had to be cleaned almost every day to find out why one was getting a "hot" switch.
The voltage drop between the difference in metals is something like hundredth's of an ohm. Your battery is touching your atomizer and the switch (spring loaded) has this huge brass plate for battery contact. I've used the SMPL clone for months now and have NEVER got a hot switch. This is a big plus coming from other mods where you have a little contact point that you frequently have to polish so you don't have corrosion and shorting issues.
I'm not going back to the telescoping tube days where threadings had to be cleaned almost every day to find out why one was getting a "hot" switch.
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