SMPL Mod (clone) discussion

[mhertz]

Cool, I understand... I love tube mods also for there ultimate simplicity and small formfactor, but it just needs many more battery refills during a day + harder on them...

Btw, I previously thought it a con to have screwdriver operation on cell-changing, but I then didn't thought about how much better it is for longevity than e.g. springs that can easily collapse/loose tension etc. (I understood it while reading about a new full mechanical box mod, where the manufacturer had placed the screwdriver operation instead of e.g. springs on the pros list...) Now I greatly prefer screwdriver/coin/"raptor-style" operation. The newest dos-equis has removed springs for coin-slots and many dos-equis/castigador/etc users complain about collapsed or otherwise broken/loosen springs on the FT forum... Of course I understand it when using the mod for going out/traveling(and airport security), although i've read pennies can come into the long slots of the abaddon...

 

[duc916]

I really need to get better springs. I looked at the site that Duc mentioned, and couldnt figure out what the hell to order XD.

Credit goes to Froth for that info.

When I get around to looking at that site on my PC instead of my phone I'll see what I can figure out.

 

[duc916]

We need Sig Sauer, or even Les Baer to build an SMPL switch. Then there'd be no gaps.

 

[Mrez]

We need Sig Sauer, or even Les Baer to build an SMPL switch. Then there'd be no gaps.

I hate to admit this..but I had to search those names. This is my weapon of choice.

 

[duc916]

I hate to admit this..but I had to search those names. This is my weapon of choice.View attachment 533111

There you go.... is that Valyrian steel?

 

[Nikea Tiber]

Looks like a Spanish or French rapier to me. Good to see someone else is interested in single point fencing.

 

[sonicbomb]

smpl

 

[Bad Ninja]

We need Sig Sauer, or even Les Baer to build an SMPL switch. Then there'd be no gaps.

There would be if a Sig was made of soft brass

I hate to admit this..but I had to search those names. This is my weapon of choice.View attachment 533111

Amateurs.

 

[Mrez]

There you go.... is that Valyrian steel?

I wish.

 

[Mrez]

Looks like a Spanish or French rapier to me. Good to see someone else is interested in single point fencing.

It's actually a custom italian sidesword based on a a few designs that I came across. Though I have a spanish rapier and a later period practice cup hilt french rapier as well. If you think vaping is an expensive hobby...

smpl

Thats funny.

There would be if a Sig was made of soft brass


Amateurs.
View attachment 533159

Never got into the Asian martial schools or weapons. They are pretty, but not as visually interesting as the assortment of rapiers, sideswords, smallswords, etc. The european schools are so much more well developed IMHO from a technical standpoint from what I've seen of japanese sword schools, depending on the country of origin, century, and weapon.

 

[Bad Ninja]

It's actually a custom italian sidesword based on a a few designs that I came across. Though I have a spanish rapier and a later period practice cup hilt french rapier as well. If you think vaping is an expensive hobby...


Thats funny.


Never got into the Asian martial schools or weapons. They are pretty, but not as visually interesting as the assortment of rapiers, sideswords, smallswords, etc. The european schools are so much more well developed IMHO from a technical standpoint from what I've seen of japanese sword schools, depending on the country of origin, century, and weapon.

The Japanese katana is the pinnacle of edged weapons.
Since about 1400 ad.
The Japanese understood metallurgy more than any other sword making society in history.
The sword was designed to be drawn and used efficiently.
It's a cutter, not a stabber.

Unlike European swords which were mass produced by local blacksmiths between making farm tools and horseshoes, Japanese katanas were made by revered specialists, who saw construction as a religious exercise.
They signed their work. Like art.

 

[Mrez]

Ah...the old argument amongst sword folks. Asian vs European

Debunking European Sword Myths.

The weapons were essentially appropriate for their environment. One, the longsword had to be able to go up against steel plate, mail, and good technique. It wasn't a one cut and done weapon. It was a fight, esp if armour was involved, but even unarmoured, where single well placed cut or thrust basically left you maimed.

The other, excellent for use against unarmed peasants, or avenging imaginary slights against one's code of honor with long sweeping fast cuts that probably left two dead warriors on the floor. Of course I jest. Both had their merits and suited for what they were designed to go up against...but dismissing the longsword (or any Euro weapon) as a crudely forged mass produced bludgeoning peasant weapon is very very misinformed. The Euro's had an understanding of steel that is still not entirely understood today. That is almost a direct quote from several armourers I've worked with over the years. The technique required much more than just bludgeoning someone to death. It was a dance, and only got more refined as the years went on, the weapons refined, and armour became replaced by technique.

But I digress....we're derailing the thread. Hide before the Mods come.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Ah...the old argument amongst sword folks. Asian vs European

Debunking European Sword Myths.

The weapons were essentially appropriate for their environment. One, the longsword had to be able to go up against steel plate, mail, and good technique. It wasn't a one cut and done weapon. It was a fight, esp if armour was involved, but even unarmoured, where single well placed cut or thrust basically left you maimed.

The other, excellent for use against unarmed peasants, or avenging imaginary slights against one's code of honor with long sweeping fast cuts that probably left two dead warriors on the floor. Of course I jest. Both had their merits and suited for what they were designed to go up against...but dismissing the longsword (or any Euro weapon) as a crudely forged mass produced bludgeoning peasant weapon is very very misinformed. The Euro's had an understanding of steel that is still not entirely understood today. That is almost a direct quote from several armourers I've worked with over the years. The technique required much more than just bludgeoning someone to death. It was a dance, and only got more refined as the years went on, the weapons refined, and armour became replaced by technique.

But I digress....we're derailing the thread. Hide before the Mods come.

No one dismissed European swords.
They were aproriate for their use.
They were used to arm soldiers.

Katanas were designed to arm the elite samurai class.
They were made better.
It's a fact.

 

[mhertz]

I'm totally "not-in-the-know" about swords, but if the link Mrez posted is credible(?), then:

[...](From the last part of '5. Katana section'...)
Some simple facts:
- There is no video or written evidence that Katana can cut solid steel or do other "magical" things we keep hearing, but thousands of Katana in collections with bent and chipped blades.
- There is no metallographic evidence that Katana are somehow different to other steel swords in the world.
- There is no evidence that Chinese, Koreans, Mongols and Europeans were impressed by japanese swords and bought them in huge amounts to replace their own "crude" swords.

Metallography of a japanese sword:
http://www.yamakawadojo.com/Japanese...per%202009.pdf
There we have a good insight in the inner life of a Katana. Pretty soft body, prone to bending, only the last 5mm of the edge are really hard. Nothing magical or “superior” to other blades.

From the information above it is clearly seen that European swords are on par with Japanese ones, no matter if it’s weight, balance, sharpness, craftsmanship or steel quality. If there were no “crude blunt heavy European swords” the myth of Katana wouldn’t even be there… Who knows?

 

[sonicbomb]

 

[mhertz]

Btw, just read about a great cleaning tool; electric toothbrush! Tired of cleaning manually until fingers get numb of work/alcohol, because of ocd, lol

Also, do you guys think isopropyl or salt/vinegar(or lemon/salt or ketchup; an acid and a "quickener"...) is best for cleaning contacts/threads...

Lastly, lately i've been thinking if it's okay or not to skip the main body(not contacts/threads obviously) if having many mods to clean and not enough time? I mean, can the body, cleaned or not, influence VD? It's the fastest to clean(body), but nonetheless, helps to skip if cleaning e.g. 8 mods.

Semi off-topic, but ok I guess.

 

[Mrez]

No one dismissed European swords.
They were aproriate for their use.
They were used to arm soldiers.

Katanas were designed to arm the elite samurai class.
They were made better.
It's a fact.

Alright Bad, I had a long response all ready to go...and then after some thought decided to delete it. This is not the appropriate forum for it. Let's get the thread back on track...instead of the flaming pile a wreckage it's becoming.

 

[mhertz]

I enjoyed learning something new, though

 

[sonicbomb]

Btw, just read about a great cleaning tool; electric toothbrush! Tired of cleaning manually until fingers get numb of work/alcohol, because of ocd, lol
Also, do you guys think isopropyl or salt/vinegar(or lemon/salt or ketchup; an acid and a "quickener"...) is best for cleaning contacts/threads...

Lastly, lately i've been thinking if it's okay or not to skip the main body(not contacts/threads obviously) if having many mods to clean and not enough time? I mean, can the body, cleaned or not, influence VD? It's the fastest to clean(body), but nonetheless, helps to skip if cleaning e.g. 8 mods.

Ketchup and an electric toothbrush works perfectly for me, and yes it makes a noticeable difference to VD. I sometimes use Brasso on the contacts too.

 

[mhertz]

Thanks mate! Btw, about if it makes a difference with regards to VD, then I meant if cleaning the body, not threads and contacts, also makes a difference to VD

I guess ketchup works because it's got vinegar in it, or some other acidic component + salt, so that's why i've personally gotten straight to the source(vinegar/salt).

Vinegar/salt is great for oxidation on copper/brass, but i'm not sure about it's regular cleaning abilities like grime and dirt or whatever, so i've begun using isopropanol 99.5%, but was thinking if it would make sense to use a vinegar/salt bath afterwards, or to entirelly replace the isopropanol with it, if it's also good for general cleaning... Just interesting to hear what you other folks think... Also, I don't know what to get for threads and contacts, when wanting the very best, amongst deoxit, nyolox, oxguard, nyogel 760 etc etc, lol