Snails - Response on Threads Part 3
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~~~~~ Snails.
Just under 80 here. Not too bad. Turned sunny. Hot in sun even.
Should be nice tomorrow too.
Just under 80 here. Not too bad. Turned sunny. Hot in sun even.
Should be nice tomorrow too.
still hoping for rain here 
btw - i see baby squashes this year! got the crook neck variety instead of the straight ones!
btw - i see baby squashes this year!
got the crook neck variety instead of the straight ones!
Didn't even plant this year.
Have wood for raised beds though. Who would have thought dirt was so expensive? lol. Seriously. Don't really have decent dirt to dig up from somewhere....lots of clay around here. Can compost, but it will take years to build up decent dirt. So it's compost heap time and planting in the future.
Have wood for raised beds though. Who would have thought dirt was so expensive? lol. Seriously. Don't really have decent dirt to dig up from somewhere....lots of clay around here. Can compost, but it will take years to build up decent dirt. So it's compost heap time and planting in the future.
Didn't even plant this year.
Have wood for raised beds though. Who would have thought dirt was so expensive? lol. Seriously. Don't really have decent dirt to dig up from somewhere....lots of clay around here. Can compost, but it will take years to build up decent dirt. So it's compost heap time and planting in the future.
i recycle geoff
lol.
I'll bet you do.
Doesn't work for dog-stuff though. No good. IDK why, but they say don't use it. :/
I'll bet you do.
Doesn't work for dog-stuff though. No good. IDK why, but they say don't use it. :/
here goes and brb
Wire lengths
Charger (both) - 2 1/2"
Battery Negative - 3 1/4"
Battery Positive - 4 1/2"
510 (both) - 1"
Bend and break off the bent flange on two of the contacts.
Install contacts without flange in the battery tray top contact slots.
Install normal contacts in the battery tray bottom contact slots, and then fold over. I stop just short of the bottom so when you fold them over they aren't bending in the same place.
Tin wires, contacts, and fuses.
Solder fuses to bent contact tabs.
Layout and mark positive and negative wire for removing wire shielding. I use positive on the top contacts and negative on the bottom contacts (see note below). Remove shielding from marked areas, then tin and solder wires to the contacts. Notice the orientation and route of the wires on the battery tray, the top wire needs to cross over at the top so it doesn't interfere with the 510. I mark the wires then use wire strippers to cut the shielding on both sides of the mark, then I use a razor knife to cut the shielding, then remove the shielding and tin the exposed wire.
(Be aware that I am fusing on the negative. Convention for DC is to fuse the positive. I have tested this and it works fine. If you want to fuse the positive then use the bottom contacts as positive and top as negative. I just found that it was instinct to put positive up, so that is why I am going against convention.)
I like to glue the top wire in the channel in the bottom of the battery tray for about 1/2". This helps keep the wire where it needs to go when installing the battery tray. I typically use super glue.
From the backside of the dna tin the battery and charger +&- pads.
From the backside of the DNA tin the out - pad (it is the outside pad).
From the front side of the DNA tin the out + pad.
Disassemble the Fat Daddy 510 and tin the center pin. Then solder the 510 wire at a 90* angle to the center pin. Also note that you only want the end of the wire to about the center of the center pin, this will help when your installing the spring/o-ring/threaded retainer. Once cooled install from wire to center pin, the spring, then the o-ring, then rear retainer. Then screw the insulator back into the rear retainer.
Tin the 510 solder tab washer, then solder the 510 wire to the solder tab.
Solder the 510 center pin assembly to the DNA out + pad on front side of the DNA at a ~45* angle.
Solder the 510 solder tab washer assembly to the DNA out - pad from the backside of the DNA parallel with top or 90* to side.
Solder the charge and battery wires to the DNA from the backside of the DNA.
You should now have something that looks this. This is also a good time to install a battery and make sure the DNA powers up and etc.
Set the DNA assembly inside the housing and install the 510 housing and tighten the nut.
VERY IMPORTANT STEP....INSTALL THE BUTTONS!!!. Then work the DNA in place and install the DNA clamps. Then get the screen in place and install the screen clamp.
This can be the hardest and most frustrating step. Thread the 510 center pin assembly into the 510 housing. Don't try to force it!!! It will start threading easily once you get it aligned correctly. Once I have got it started threading with my fingers, I use a pair of needle nose pliers to finish threading and tighten down.
Glue in the charger, both super glue and epoxy work. I like to use a cheap plastic clamp to hold it in place until the glue is dry. I just use a minimal amount of glue, and apply the glue to the housing and then install and clamp the charger in place.
Install the battery tray.
One thing I didn't take a picture of is installing the light pipe. The light pipe isn't necessary as you can still see the charger leds through the hole, but it just gives it a cleaner and more professional look. Cut a piece of the 1/16" acrylic rod or similar, sand flat if needed, then install so it is flush with the outside of the door, then glue in place. I have used both super glue and epoxy.
Now install your batteries and verify everything is working like it should. Then install and the rear door and enjoy!!!
Wire lengths
Charger (both) - 2 1/2"
Battery Negative - 3 1/4"
Battery Positive - 4 1/2"
510 (both) - 1"
Bend and break off the bent flange on two of the contacts.
Install contacts without flange in the battery tray top contact slots.
Install normal contacts in the battery tray bottom contact slots, and then fold over. I stop just short of the bottom so when you fold them over they aren't bending in the same place.
Tin wires, contacts, and fuses.
Solder fuses to bent contact tabs.
Layout and mark positive and negative wire for removing wire shielding. I use positive on the top contacts and negative on the bottom contacts (see note below). Remove shielding from marked areas, then tin and solder wires to the contacts. Notice the orientation and route of the wires on the battery tray, the top wire needs to cross over at the top so it doesn't interfere with the 510. I mark the wires then use wire strippers to cut the shielding on both sides of the mark, then I use a razor knife to cut the shielding, then remove the shielding and tin the exposed wire.
(Be aware that I am fusing on the negative. Convention for DC is to fuse the positive. I have tested this and it works fine. If you want to fuse the positive then use the bottom contacts as positive and top as negative. I just found that it was instinct to put positive up, so that is why I am going against convention.)
I like to glue the top wire in the channel in the bottom of the battery tray for about 1/2". This helps keep the wire where it needs to go when installing the battery tray. I typically use super glue.
From the backside of the dna tin the battery and charger +&- pads.
From the backside of the DNA tin the out - pad (it is the outside pad).
From the front side of the DNA tin the out + pad.
Disassemble the Fat Daddy 510 and tin the center pin. Then solder the 510 wire at a 90* angle to the center pin. Also note that you only want the end of the wire to about the center of the center pin, this will help when your installing the spring/o-ring/threaded retainer. Once cooled install from wire to center pin, the spring, then the o-ring, then rear retainer. Then screw the insulator back into the rear retainer.
Tin the 510 solder tab washer, then solder the 510 wire to the solder tab.
Solder the 510 center pin assembly to the DNA out + pad on front side of the DNA at a ~45* angle.
Solder the 510 solder tab washer assembly to the DNA out - pad from the backside of the DNA parallel with top or 90* to side.
Solder the charge and battery wires to the DNA from the backside of the DNA.
You should now have something that looks this. This is also a good time to install a battery and make sure the DNA powers up and etc.
Set the DNA assembly inside the housing and install the 510 housing and tighten the nut.
VERY IMPORTANT STEP....INSTALL THE BUTTONS!!!. Then work the DNA in place and install the DNA clamps. Then get the screen in place and install the screen clamp.
This can be the hardest and most frustrating step. Thread the 510 center pin assembly into the 510 housing. Don't try to force it!!! It will start threading easily once you get it aligned correctly. Once I have got it started threading with my fingers, I use a pair of needle nose pliers to finish threading and tighten down.
Glue in the charger, both super glue and epoxy work. I like to use a cheap plastic clamp to hold it in place until the glue is dry. I just use a minimal amount of glue, and apply the glue to the housing and then install and clamp the charger in place.
Install the battery tray.
One thing I didn't take a picture of is installing the light pipe. The light pipe isn't necessary as you can still see the charger leds through the hole, but it just gives it a cleaner and more professional look. Cut a piece of the 1/16" acrylic rod or similar, sand flat if needed, then install so it is flush with the outside of the door, then glue in place. I have used both super glue and epoxy.
Now install your batteries and verify everything is working like it should. Then install and the rear door and enjoy!!!
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