You probably have digested that waffle by now, Mad......but, g'morning!
@tiburonfirst : Top two images above fixed *my* ABS/ESP/Brake lights (all 4 of them).
"Half shafts" (behave, @Katmar) and "tone rings".
Plus ignition module, meaning two new "keys"...
Driver air bag...
Horn button/switch.
They also reprogrammed the receiver for the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring
system).
"Half shafts" (behave, @Katmar) and "tone rings".
Plus ignition module, meaning two new "keys"...
Driver air bag...
Horn button/switch.
They also reprogrammed the receiver for the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring
system).
You had new axles put on? Really?
$54 (tax included)
How many miles? It was still under warranty?
I have "Maximum LIFETIME Care". So yes, $50 deductible. I save up problems
(unless it's a danger) and just pay 1 deductible for multiple fixes. Look at all
they did!!!
Are half-shafts axles? I don't know these things. And I do not understand
why those ^ and "tone rings" have anything to do with ABS/ESP/Brakes.
Found this... but does not mention "half shafts" (behave @Katmar):
The wheel speed sensor is built into the wheel bearing hub assembly.
A metal "tone ring" with a predetermined number of teeth sits
between the inner and outer bearings. A Hall Effect sensor plugs into
a carefully machined hole in the forging, locating it just above the
tone ring. As the vehicle's whee lturns, the tone ring teeth pass by
the sensor. The gaps between the teeth trigger the sensor in direct
relationship to their speed. As the wheel turns faster, the teeth pass
faster under the sensor. Under braking, the anti-lock computer
compares the signals from the wheel speed sensors. If it sees the
wheels are locked or turning at different speeds (skidding), it
triggers the ABS braking system to modulate the brakes.
Since there is no direct mechanical contact between the tone ring
and the sensor, the air gap between them must be precisely
maintained or it will give false readings. The air gap in this type of
system is normally in the range of 1mm.
NHTSA is investigating the likelihood that salt used on the roads in
some states is working its way into the hub assembly via the sensor
hole, contaminating the hub assembly, fouling the all-important air
gap and corroding the sensor itself. When the gap is fouled in any
way, the sensor can report a higher or lower speed than actual, or
send a garbled, useless signal, any of which can confuse the ABS
system into working when it should not, or not work when it should.
Oh.
Let's see. Each axle goes into the the side to the differential in the center. So I just call it an axle but you can call it a half-shaft if you want. Meh. Even unicycle wheels have an axle.
Anyway, "Tone rings" can be done in a number of ways, but basically they are "bumps" and "holes/notches". The magnetic sensor senses the hole or the bump. It makes kind of an on-off-on-off pattern in the sensor. Knowing the size of the things, it can tell how fast the wheel is turning by simply counting those on/off cycles over time (computer controlled, of course).
Thus, if you put them on all 4 wheels, it can tell if one wheel is slipping or if 2 are skidding, etc. If you have the breaks on, and the wheels aren't spinning, it can "pump" the breaks for you (not sure how it knows you're still moving...if it pumps them and they turn, maybe).
Let's see. Each axle goes into the the side to the differential in the center. So I just call it an axle but you can call it a half-shaft if you want. Meh. Even unicycle wheels have an axle.
Anyway, "Tone rings" can be done in a number of ways, but basically they are "bumps" and "holes/notches". The magnetic sensor senses the hole or the bump. It makes kind of an on-off-on-off pattern in the sensor. Knowing the size of the things, it can tell how fast the wheel is turning by simply counting those on/off cycles over time (computer controlled, of course).
Thus, if you put them on all 4 wheels, it can tell if one wheel is slipping or if 2 are skidding, etc. If you have the breaks on, and the wheels aren't spinning, it can "pump" the breaks for you (not sure how it knows you're still moving...if it pumps them and they turn, maybe).
The $50 deductible "policy" was $2300 at time of purchase.
It has WAY-more than paid for itself, even without the latest visit.
Oh fine, make me post that and then look up your own answer and beat me to it. 
Mine was limited to 100K miles. So that's that. IDK that I had a lifetime care option. If so, I blew it not getting it.
I'll need to read the "fine print". 100K isn't really "lifetime" with modern
vehicles. I had the 100K warranty with the '85 Dynasty and '97 Intrepid,
and Chrysler offered further extended coverage after that point. But
both of those vehicles were on last legs by that point, so just bought
another car. I wasn't going to have a car that required frequent shop
visits... covered or not.
That '85 Dynasty had a rear window that was SHEER HEAVEN to clean. Almost-
vertical and close to the seat back. The Intrepid and this Charger are hell hell
hell. (Same with the front.) My arms are NOT that long and I do not bend in
the needed directions anymore.
vertical and close to the seat back. The Intrepid and this Charger are hell hell
hell. (Same with the front.) My arms are NOT that long and I do not bend in
the needed directions anymore.
just a pit stop and back out i go
