So - 3 atomizers, less than a minute - Poof
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no problemo johna ...
If you still can't figure it out, you are free to shoot it back to us at your convenience and I can pin it for you so it won't move
I used your ticket system to send you guys a note. I appreciate the help.
It should, assuming your USB used is a PC (or Mac) USB2 port, per USB2 spec.
That spec allows for up to '5 USB load units' of 100ma each.' basically, 500mA, or .5A.
A 5v device like the Prodigy uses batteries which can deliver 4A on up.
Now, 'higher isn't better,' you just need enough for the circuit being used.
in this case, you have a fixed (ish, some variances for batteries full charge, and USB inconsistencies, under load, etc). 5vDC.
A 510 atty is ~2.5Ohms resistance.
A 801 atty is ~3.4Ohms resistance.
So, a 'pure' 510 5v device, would draw ~2Amps current, assuming the power source can provide it. Which a PC/Mac USB2 port can not. It may provide a bit over, like .6A, but that's still a far cry from the 2A.
A wall wart USB adapter, or powerpack, may provide up to ~2A, or at least 1.5A, which is closer.
CR2s/18650 etc can all provide > 4Amps, 'more than enough for any e-cig atty today' basically..
The attys *do* seem to change resistance as heated due to the nichrome coils, but I believe it's < 10% change, so that still leaves us with :
1. I have no idea what standard ecig batteries can sustain for discharge, but I suspect not much more than a USB2 spec port.
2. USB2 isn't the same on a PC, versus wall wart vs power pack on output.
3. The more common batteries, CR2/123, 18650s etc all can output more than enough current for any attys out there today (ok, common ones, anyways).
If we go back to the 3.x vDC of e-cig batteries, for a typical 801/pen atty, it works out to roughly a draw of 1A. And, as many *prefer* a direct USB to their screw-on e-cig batteries, it seems likely that the e-cig batteries also are underpowered, from a discharge/Amperage standpoint, which may well be why some prefer a USB PT, even on a PC, to their e-cig batteries, plus the higher voltage.
We can also see that Watts is: P = I(current/Amps) x E(Volts)
So basically, increase current flow or voltage = more Watts, basically = more vapor/hotter burn, blah blah blah.
But, considering the attys we have are 'designed' to run at lower...presumably there's a tradeoff in there somewhere - increase too much and attys will pop, not from solder joints or 'crud buildup' (which is valid as well), but will burn up from the current being passed through them.
If you have a device that is able to get the amperage it requires by it's design, but want *more*...easiest alternative = increase voltage, which will in turn produce higher current, higher watts, etc.
Measuring your USB output, and atty resistance will let you plug in your own values of course, but that shouldn't change, unless you have added components, flaky grounds or contacts, etc.
But 5vDC USB2 port != 5vDC power pack != 5vDC battery or Prodigy.
Sorry for the thread derailment.
Thanks for the detailed post, wegster. Unfortunately, I've read it repeatedly and I still don't get it. Somebody walked me through the A and mAh concepts, at which point I thought I understood the whole thing. Now, with the introduction of Watts and Ohms, I am totally confused again.
I apologize if I am a little slow with this stuff. I know almost nothing about electricity.
The one thing that I think I understand is that you are saying that a USBpass plugged into a Kensington Power Pack produces significantly less power than the Prodigy. That is what seems to conflict with the rest of the posts I've read.
I do think I recall CaSH saying that there is *slightly* more power with the Prodigy (vs. a USBpass and Kensington), but is it significant?
CaSH, if you happen to read this, will you weigh in?
It might be worth noting too that when you get these products with a switch there are some things you should keep in mind.
1. There is a little coil that heats up to create the vapor. That coil is cooled either by air or by the liquid. If you are not sucking on it or it's too dry it's going to get too hot and break. This is the issue with the short 401 batteries that activate by themselves and burn up atomizers.
2. Most batteries have a 3-7 second shut off, so if you are pushing the button with more voltage for a longer period of time chances are you are going well beyond the manufactures specs for that atty.
3. When you push the button you are going to get vapory and my guess is that it will continue to create vapor for a few seconds after you press the button. When I get mine, I will be starting with short bursts and moving up from there. I'd think short bursts of button push will extend the life of the atty.
Think about what is going on in the products you use, and act conservatively.
Just my 2 cents.
1. There is a little coil that heats up to create the vapor. That coil is cooled either by air or by the liquid. If you are not sucking on it or it's too dry it's going to get too hot and break. This is the issue with the short 401 batteries that activate by themselves and burn up atomizers.
2. Most batteries have a 3-7 second shut off, so if you are pushing the button with more voltage for a longer period of time chances are you are going well beyond the manufactures specs for that atty.
3. When you push the button you are going to get vapory and my guess is that it will continue to create vapor for a few seconds after you press the button. When I get mine, I will be starting with short bursts and moving up from there. I'd think short bursts of button push will extend the life of the atty.
Think about what is going on in the products you use, and act conservatively.
Just my 2 cents.
A good USB Powerpack with the PT can likely come quite close to Prodigy vaping. Either will do better than a PT on the normal USB2 port of a PC or Mac. That simplify/help?
@tescela
Going to try one more, perhaps bad, analogy, maybe it'll help 'drive it home' for ya.
Cars have both horsepower and torque. HP is sort of 'how fast can it go, top speed?'
Torque is 'how fast can it get there?'
A car can have high HP and low torque, which means it may go 200MPH...eventually; it'll take a while to get there. Torque is how 'quick' a car is. (yeah ok, I'm simplifying this, but close enough..)
Think of voltage as HP, and current/Amps as torque. For a given voltage(hp) level, if your battery doesn't have enough discharge current capacity (torque), you won't get maximum performance.
Going to try one more, perhaps bad, analogy, maybe it'll help 'drive it home' for ya.
Cars have both horsepower and torque. HP is sort of 'how fast can it go, top speed?'
Torque is 'how fast can it get there?'
A car can have high HP and low torque, which means it may go 200MPH...eventually; it'll take a while to get there. Torque is how 'quick' a car is. (yeah ok, I'm simplifying this, but close enough..)
Think of voltage as HP, and current/Amps as torque. For a given voltage(hp) level, if your battery doesn't have enough discharge current capacity (torque), you won't get maximum performance.
Horsepower: How much energy the car can generate.
Torque: How much of that energy the vehicle is capable of delivering to the road.
Just clarifying, because your description wasn't exactly accurate.
Torque: How much of that energy the vehicle is capable of delivering to the road.
Just clarifying, because your description wasn't exactly accurate.
Actually, neither is yours. I know where you're trying to go with it, but you can have high torque and sucky tires, or high drivetrain losses...and really, it doesn't help the analogy, either.
As I said, not a great analogy, but your definitions are not entirely correct, either.
Mental note - leave HP/torque analogies out of electrical explanations, or may have to go dig up dyno sheets and 1/4 mile times, too much work!
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was thinking of getting a power pak for my pass- thru, it has 3 voltage settingh i can use 5,6,7.2. i know that i will only run my PS pass on 5 volt, but a few questions. it is pushing 2850 mAh @ 5 volts is that gonna be ok ? it has 14.4 watt-hour, will that last all day medium vaping?
thx for any help
thx for any help
Do you have a link to that powerpack? That sounds interesting if it really allows selectable voltages.
mAh is just a measure of time or capacity, not output current.
Have a link?
mini size high capacity power station - PS6600 @ bixnet.com-- 50 bux
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they have a battery box with usb port, pushes 5 volts uses 4 AA batterys, only 20 bux , i might try that, could you let me know what you think of these 2 products wegster? you are more knowledgable than i, thx
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I looked at the one (first), but their output is sorta jacked. I don't think Watt-hours is directly translatable to output current..it's just another time measurement.
I like the selectable output voltages...that's pretty cool. Although no idea what it's max output is, it could be 1A, and may or may not lock output voltage to 5v when power out is via USB.
Gotta find the mfgr of it to find out more
I like the selectable output voltages...that's pretty cool. Although no idea what it's max output is, it could be 1A, and may or may not lock output voltage to 5v when power out is via USB.
Gotta find the mfgr of it to find out more
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