Ok so how can the newer mods Safely run at 250 or even older mods at 200W (regulated not mech) if most high drain 18650 batts are at 20W continuous discharge? even the bigger mods with 3 batteries should not be able to do this safly. like 20W (continuous discharge) X 3(batteries) = 60W of safe continuous discharge. not 250. So what am i missing here?
So confused. I dont wana die.
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First, there's a difference between watts(W) and ampere(A). None of our batteries has a watt rating. They have a maximum continuous discharge rating (CDR) and that is listed in ampere (A). That is the maximum load the battery can do safely for a prolonged time.
Batteries are able to provide much higher currents than their CDR rating, there's nothing built into the battery preventing this, but at the cost of safety and at the cost of integrity, they will age very quickly and be unusable (also, accidents could happen if you do this).
The numbers you see on the mods are possible only for a very short time and at very specific resistances, they are mainly for marketing purposes not really an indication of how you can vape with them.
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to add a little bit of guidance - you can calculate 40W-60W per high current battery, so a 2 battery mod can realistically do 80W-120W and a 3 battery mod can realistically do 120W-180W. Like stated, only batteries with a high cdr should be used for high wattages.
Batteries are able to provide much higher currents than their CDR rating, there's nothing built into the battery preventing this, but at the cost of safety and at the cost of integrity, they will age very quickly and be unusable (also, accidents could happen if you do this).
The numbers you see on the mods are possible only for a very short time and at very specific resistances, they are mainly for marketing purposes not really an indication of how you can vape with them.
Edit:
to add a little bit of guidance - you can calculate 40W-60W per high current battery, so a 2 battery mod can realistically do 80W-120W and a 3 battery mod can realistically do 120W-180W. Like stated, only batteries with a high cdr should be used for high wattages.
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It's marketing, whoever has the device that has the largest watts is the selling point, even if it cannot deliver those watts.
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Ok i feel like a (Not Appropriate) now XD. So i have a panzer200W and its internal lipo is (Not Appropriate). can anyone suggest a good replacment? if it cant fit inside, i may just end up duct taping it to the back of it. too broke for a new mod
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I don't have a panzer but obviously a lipo with the same specs and size would do the job 
I'd look around some RC parts suppliers and RC battery vendors, you should find one that's pretty damn close.
I'd look around some RC parts suppliers and RC battery vendors, you should find one that's pretty damn close.
a bit off topic but how dumb is it to be vaping this build i made on an old lipo that gets discharged wayyy too fast?. also in escribe, how do i know if its actually damaged? this build is 0.03 ohm
or just dieng?
Hi and welcome. Where to begin... Ok, you've been hearing some good advice. In many cases, the ridiculously large watt factors on many mods are hype and nothing more. They can't really attain them or at best momentarily. And yes, there is a difference between amps and watts; the rule of thumb you were given is a good one. If you have an 18650 rated at 20A CDR, you can safely get 60 watts our of it.
Oddly enough, the board in Panzer-- advertised as a true DNA200-- is one of those which can make its rated wattage. Therefore the selection of the LiPo replacement is going to be critical. A DNA board requires a 3S cell-- a 3S LiPo is usually just three 1S LiPo cells wired in series and shrink-wrapped together-- of sufficient current capacity to support the board's draw. Details for the battery spec can be found on Evolv's website. If you can get the mod open, there's probably a manufacturer's name and part number on the battery pack; Google is your friend on that. A direct 1:1 replacement would probably be best, especially is the pack comes with a connector of some sort, of which there are several in common currency. If the pack will require a soldered connection, and especially if the connections will have to be made to the cell tabs themselves, either to connect the pack or to build the pack before connection, do not try to do this yourself without a good bit of practical knowledge of electronics. If you overheat that tab, you're in for some fireworks. Neither is just taping a too-large LiPo pack to the back a good idea. The charging board is almost certainly built for the 4500 mAh cell the mod comes with, and will balance charge it nicely (or not, that might be why the LiPo went south). Lengthening the leads to get the pack outside the case is not a good idea either. LiPos are safe enough if used in their designed manner. But designing a manner in which they might be safely used is a job for somebody with a lot of knowledge of electronics, not a casual user.
If you know what you're doing in electronics, fine: have at you and good luck. But the title of your thread is "I don't want to die." If you don't, remember the proverb beginning with "a little knowledge..." and stay away from repairing a LiPo mod unless the cell replacement is a 1:1 match with a connector you can just plug in. I know you say you can't afford a new mod, and believe me when I say I've been there. But you'd do better selling the board in the Panzer to a modder who knew what they're doing-- DNA200s are expensive-- and buying a smaller mod with the money.
Good luck, welcome to the board, and try to stick around a while.
Oddly enough, the board in Panzer-- advertised as a true DNA200-- is one of those which can make its rated wattage. Therefore the selection of the LiPo replacement is going to be critical. A DNA board requires a 3S cell-- a 3S LiPo is usually just three 1S LiPo cells wired in series and shrink-wrapped together-- of sufficient current capacity to support the board's draw. Details for the battery spec can be found on Evolv's website. If you can get the mod open, there's probably a manufacturer's name and part number on the battery pack; Google is your friend on that. A direct 1:1 replacement would probably be best, especially is the pack comes with a connector of some sort, of which there are several in common currency. If the pack will require a soldered connection, and especially if the connections will have to be made to the cell tabs themselves, either to connect the pack or to build the pack before connection, do not try to do this yourself without a good bit of practical knowledge of electronics. If you overheat that tab, you're in for some fireworks. Neither is just taping a too-large LiPo pack to the back a good idea. The charging board is almost certainly built for the 4500 mAh cell the mod comes with, and will balance charge it nicely (or not, that might be why the LiPo went south). Lengthening the leads to get the pack outside the case is not a good idea either. LiPos are safe enough if used in their designed manner. But designing a manner in which they might be safely used is a job for somebody with a lot of knowledge of electronics, not a casual user.
If you know what you're doing in electronics, fine: have at you and good luck. But the title of your thread is "I don't want to die." If you don't, remember the proverb beginning with "a little knowledge..." and stay away from repairing a LiPo mod unless the cell replacement is a 1:1 match with a connector you can just plug in. I know you say you can't afford a new mod, and believe me when I say I've been there. But you'd do better selling the board in the Panzer to a modder who knew what they're doing-- DNA200s are expensive-- and buying a smaller mod with the money.
Good luck, welcome to the board, and try to stick around a while.
Are those rings your turned into coils? I mean they look cool but I wouldn't vape a 0.03 ohm coil setup, even with a DNA board as it's out of spec.
Welcome to ECF. First of all, you are going to die. We are all going to die. If you want to not die from a battery explosion, I'd suggest reading up on battery safety and etc. Rather than go into long explanations, I am going to suggest reading this: Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum
It's a great resource on battery safety and Mooch also has a you tube channel concerning battery safety and it's also excellent if you prefer not reading a lot. But basically, you are going to have to learn to build in such a fashion that you don't require ridiculous wattages to get there. You are vaping resistance way too low, and wattage much to high. Stop doing that, and you may, eventually, stop fearing death by battery explosion.. With what you are doing now, it's a real possibility. Just like rewrapped batteries inflate their specs, mod makers can do it too. Partially because "more" is seen as "better" and maybe mod makers think a higher wattage capable board may be appealing. And it may well be, but it's pretty useless if you can't get safe batteries high enough to power it. Most people leave some "headroom" on their mods, too, vaping at lower wattages than the highest capable. Vaping at the top end of your mod stresses the batteries, the nod, everything really. It's not good practice.
Welcome to ECF, glad you showed up here.
Anna
It's a great resource on battery safety and Mooch also has a you tube channel concerning battery safety and it's also excellent if you prefer not reading a lot. But basically, you are going to have to learn to build in such a fashion that you don't require ridiculous wattages to get there. You are vaping resistance way too low, and wattage much to high. Stop doing that, and you may, eventually, stop fearing death by battery explosion.. With what you are doing now, it's a real possibility. Just like rewrapped batteries inflate their specs, mod makers can do it too. Partially because "more" is seen as "better" and maybe mod makers think a higher wattage capable board may be appealing. And it may well be, but it's pretty useless if you can't get safe batteries high enough to power it. Most people leave some "headroom" on their mods, too, vaping at lower wattages than the highest capable. Vaping at the top end of your mod stresses the batteries, the nod, everything really. It's not good practice.
Welcome to ECF, glad you showed up here.
Anna
@untar and @suprtrkr were spot on as well as @stols001 on the dieing part.
To elaborate on Untar's post, Batteries have a max AMPERAGE discharge rating. Electricity is managed by Ohms Law.. it something that simply cannot be surpassed. The electronics on an Ecig change the parameters by supplying what is called for by the user, but usually they have an amperage limit. For example, the 18650 usually has a 4.2 volt limit per cell. Some boards allowed you to go above that by charging capacitors and let the capacitors pulse a higher voltage. In one of my old mods, it was a single 18650 battery that allowed you to up the voltage to 6 volts on a single 18650... it would pulse the coil at 6 volts. It would sound like a rattlesnake when you vape. I suggest you go to Ohms law calculator and play around with the numbers there.As far as the battery replacement... remember, 18650's aren't meant to be batteries for consumer use. They are called "cells" by the manufacturer and are designed to be soldiered together to create a battery unit. If you were to open up a laptop's battery, you'll notice that most of them are simply 18650's soldiered together. Same thing could be said for hoverboards, electric bikes, electric airplanes, and so on. It takes quite a bit of knowlege of electricity and soldering to make those, and it's something I do not recommend to just anyone.
Lastly, would I use those coils... no. there are so many potentials for a loose connection. I'm assuming that is kanthal wire, and kanthal tends to stretch a bit when heated. So, looking at those coils, I can just imagine some stretching going on, and some resistances changing quite a bit when those coils are heating. It's something I would not use because it looks fairly dangerous.
That build is ......ed and I don't believe you vaped it even once... if you want help, ok, but if you want to be funny you need some more practice
You need to order one of these coils
Really? Are you kidding me! I have been vaping since 2012 and that build takes the cake! WHY!!!!!!!!
Hi dude. Welcome and just to repeat. Don’t fiddle with batteries. If you’re broke, you’re broke.
Better to be broke and have all your fingers to hand
Better to be broke and have all your fingers to hand
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