i made the coils by twisting four 26G SS wire and then twisting some amount (i dont remember lol) of something G Nicrome 80. I intertwined the 2 SS wires with the nicrome in an over under over under loop style. its basically 2 wraps of parallel twisted wire entwined with twisted nicrome.
So confused. I dont wana die.
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Your "intertwined" wire does nothing, like 80% of it isn't even in contact with cotton and it only gets passively heated due to it's higher resistance with very little heat transfer from the actual heating wire.
If I were you I'd try to make a coil that actually vaporises juice with all its components and doesn't have useless wire flapping in the breeze. I'd bet you can get at least twice the flavor from a 0.8mm*0.3mm chunky flat wire all while saving battery power... but that's just me I guess.
If I were you I'd try to make a coil that actually vaporises juice with all its components and doesn't have useless wire flapping in the breeze. I'd bet you can get at least twice the flavor from a 0.8mm*0.3mm chunky flat wire all while saving battery power... but that's just me I guess.
Actually it spikes into the cotton thats on the other side as the loops do go both ways. it warms it up before the main wires vaporize it. its actually the first build for me that doesnt spit oiling hot juice to the back of my throte as much. but ya i just like it cuz it looks cool and i spent a while making it
Spitback is more an issue of wicking than it is of the coil, you can get a simple spaced round wire to spit if wicked the wrong way.
What the wire does on the other side isn't really relevant as obviously there is a lot of it not having contact or is anywhere near cotton. Also, it can't heat up anything if there's no current going through it... compare the resistance of your fat wire to the "intertwining" wire and you'll easily see which way the angry pixies will prefer.
If you like the looks of builds then take a look at "coil porn" on instagram, most of those at least make some kind of sense (there also may be occasional titties that don't really belong there so be warned)
#coilporn • Instagram photos and videos
What the wire does on the other side isn't really relevant as obviously there is a lot of it not having contact or is anywhere near cotton. Also, it can't heat up anything if there's no current going through it... compare the resistance of your fat wire to the "intertwining" wire and you'll easily see which way the angry pixies will prefer.
If you like the looks of builds then take a look at "coil porn" on instagram, most of those at least make some kind of sense (there also may be occasional titties that don't really belong there so be warned)
#coilporn • Instagram photos and videos
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ill change coils next time i rewick. in the mean time i came up with another idea thats probably more effective. however i expect it to be just as stupid
You should wick hard, this guy has done some testing ("how hard should you wick")
Morten Oen
and it reveals not only that stuffed wick reduces spitback considerably, it also improves wicking.
You also should stay away from fluffing your cotton.
I vape daily on some single coil rdas with the coil some max 1.5cm from my mouth and I don't get any hot juice spits.
He has some additional videos that might prove interesting to you regarding airflow around different coils.
The gist of it is you might want some disturbance in your surface but not big ones as those will reduce flow around the coil (eg 28g wrapped in 40g good for flow, 26g wrapped in 32g bad for flow).
When planning a coil you should have in mind
-surface to mass ratio, you want as big a surface for as little mass as you can get away with
-room you have to built and distance to airhole, you want as little "dead" room as you can get, size your coil appropriately to your deck and use cotton wicks to further help guide the air
If your build can do all that then it won't be stupid, doesn't waste battery/energy and will give you a great taste and a good amount of vapor.
For a cloud competition there's other rules for building but they are not after great taste or energy efficiency but after big clouds exclusively, afaik in some competitions they even vape on high VG flavorless juice only.
Morten Oen
and it reveals not only that stuffed wick reduces spitback considerably, it also improves wicking.
You also should stay away from fluffing your cotton.
I vape daily on some single coil rdas with the coil some max 1.5cm from my mouth and I don't get any hot juice spits.
He has some additional videos that might prove interesting to you regarding airflow around different coils.
The gist of it is you might want some disturbance in your surface but not big ones as those will reduce flow around the coil (eg 28g wrapped in 40g good for flow, 26g wrapped in 32g bad for flow).
When planning a coil you should have in mind
-surface to mass ratio, you want as big a surface for as little mass as you can get away with
-room you have to built and distance to airhole, you want as little "dead" room as you can get, size your coil appropriately to your deck and use cotton wicks to further help guide the air
If your build can do all that then it won't be stupid, doesn't waste battery/energy and will give you a great taste and a good amount of vapor.
For a cloud competition there's other rules for building but they are not after great taste or energy efficiency but after big clouds exclusively, afaik in some competitions they even vape on high VG flavorless juice only.
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Thanks. i like a variety. sometimes i do enjoy some huge clouds as well. thanks for all the advise
I hope you are kidding about vaping that.... Ive seen some terrible builds before, but that one defies all the general laws of coil making...
For clouds, you need surface area. You should try making some claptons, later try fused Claptons.
The guy who said that it doesn't do much is right. Most builds you see that look sweet are what's termed 'vanity builds'.
I call them hannity builds in my head, because they're full of .... and they don't do much of anything.
But for real, simple is best. I find that the biggest difference between coils comes from the material. I like 316L (stainless steel) and nichrome. I prefer nichrome 90 and nichrome 80. The number describes the nickel content in the alloy, btw.
I am running dual Claptons in my goon. 24 awg nichrome 90 wrapped with 36 awg kanthal.
ok well whats the difference in coils for clouds vs flavor and how does it work scientifically? like i would like to know the various vaporization processes that take place that determine wether you get bigger clouds VS more flavor. i know about the vg/pg stuff, im just interested in the heating aspect
Well if you're vaping higher wattage, you'll want to have more metal. The smaller the RDA, the more condensed the cloud, and the flavor will be that much more pronounced.
However, if you're using a larger RDA (28mm diameter or greater) then you'll be able to put in more metal, and heat it hotter. Here's a picture of a few of my RDAs
Above is my vaperzcloud Buddha. Inside is a pair of a type of Claptons. The point of these coils is the create pockets that juice can sit in on the coil, increasing it's surface are and points of contact with the coil. The large coils and lots of airflow allow it to be fired at a higher wattage.
It still provides great flavor, but this RDA is built for clouds.
This is my flavor RDA. I can run it at max 150 watts. Its a small coil with lots of surface area in a small RDA.
It condenses the vapor and causes it to be more pronounced.
Basically, the idea is that you should build smaller in a smaller RDA, and bigger in a bigger one.
Edit: As far as the science part of it goes,
it comes from the idea of what a watt even is.
A joule is the amount of energy required to produce one watt per second.
One joule is equal to the amount of heat dissipated when a current of 1 amp is passed through a resistor of 1 ohm for 1 second.
Tying them together is ohms law. Those calculations give you everything you need, and with some basic math, you can derive formulas for each one.
Think about this stuff like water in a pipe.
Voltage can be thought like a difference in pressure from point A to point B on the pipe.
A resistor can be seen as a section of pipe with a smaller diameter than the rest of the pipes.
The current can be looked at like the amount of water in the pipe, at the diameter of pipe at the beginning of the system.
Using this analogy, it's easier to visualize how electronic circuits work
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The popping is caused by excess juice on the cotton, or juice being heated up too fast to be vaporized.
Imagine throwing an ice cube in a pot of boiling water. It will do the same thing (don't try that. it's dangerous. you could get burned).
Also, you shouldn't hate math. Hate how it was explained to you lol.
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Yes, but the board does not read the packaging and diagnose the internals of a battery. Regulated mods still have to abide by ohms law. You could use a 5a battery in a regulated mod with no problems... as long as you vape a wattage low enough to not call for more than 5 amps from the battery. I have used 5amp batteries in my 15W vamo back in the days.... There was no problem with that. But I dare not use a 5a battery in my 75w Eleaf Aster.... Even if I decided to vape only at 15W, there have been times I pushed the button and realized it jumped to 75w in my pocket.
Knowing Ohms law is highly suggested.. whether you use regulated or mechanical. If you do not wish to learn ohms law, get 30A batteries only. To my knowlege, most mods cap the amperage limit at 20 amps.. but if I remember correctly, one had an amperage limit a bit higher.. but I might be wrong on that.
you are right, but there are no 30 amp 18650s, per mooch.
Mooch has rated some LG cells at 30A. Also the VapCell Black. Albeit at lower mAh.
Mind if I see a link? It's been a while since I did any research on batteries for my own use.
Ok, so you're using Stainless steel which is a non resistant wire, then some Ni-80 is nichrome, which is resistance wire. so just what are your expectations here? Did you know that resistances change on stainless as it gets hotter? Did you know that Nichrome flexes and bends as it gets hotter? the twisting over and under of nichrome and stainless is the dangerous part.
that build is great you say... But as the wire bends and twists... it just takes one time for it to bend the wrong way... and add to the fact you don't wish to learn ohms law... All I have to say, is it's not a safe build. Please do some research. Caveat Emptor to you.
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