So many questions...

[embee214]

Hi. This is my first post. I've been vaping for just a few weeks now and enjoying the exploration, but there is just so much information to sift through! I'm hoping someone can answer a few questions.
I'm using a 650 mAh ego with a smok dc mega cartomizer, which I chose after doing a lot of research. I haven't had any problems, and have been loving it...until now. I got a new batch of sampler juices in the mail and after letting them steep for a while, I filled a new carto with juice just as I had with every other flavor/cart I have used til now. I did everything the same, but it tastes like burning electrical things smell, with some burnt sugar on top. Any ideas what caused this?
Also, I've read some conflicting things about the set up I'm using, re: dc mega cartos being bad for ego batteries. Can anyone clarify this using newbie speak?
And finally, is it bad for juices to sit in the cold, like in my mailbox when it's freezing outside? It's that time of year, and I have a few more orders on the way.
I have many more questions, but suppose too many might be inappropriate for this forum. Not sure of all the etiquette yet.
Thanks to anyone who wants to reply.

 

[dash]

Welcome!
As far as the burning taste, my best guess is you may not have given your juice enough time to prime the wicks. Next time give the atomizer a couple of draws BEFORE putting power to it. If that is the case, there is no hope for the coil now. Once it has been burned it will always have a burnt taste to it.
Secondly, I have no problem with my juice being cold. I believe it is worse for it to get too hot.
Vape on!

 

[Contagium]

Hi and congratulations on the switch! I can try to answer some of your questions but I'm definitely not an expert.

I filled a new carto with juice just as I had with every other flavor/cart I have used til now. I did everything the same, but it tastes like burning electrical things smell, with some burnt sugar on top. Any ideas what caused this?

This could be caused by a few things that I know of. If the resistance in your coil is very low it could be causing too much heat and buring the juice or even the rubber grommet in your coil. Juice does get thicker when it's cold so it's also possible you were getting a dry hit as the juice was unable to absorb into the wick fast enough.

I'm not sure if the dc mega coils can be changed but you may want to try a coil with a little higher resistance. My wife doesn't like her vapor nearly as warm as I do and uses a 2.5 Ohm coil in her tanks. I tend to like mine around 1.5.

Hope it helps!

 

[devauto]

I can't speak to anything here but the cold. No, it will not hurt your juices to be cold. In fact, many folks recommend steeping them in a refrigerator. The VG and the PG in the juice has a very low freezing point, in fact there is a thread here on that specifically (somewhere, I can't find it right now). I recommend reading through it, there is a lot of good info on cold temps and juice.

HTH!

 

[flossinon24s]

Over the last 4 years of using cartos mostly, I have received probably 20 defective ones that immediately tasted burnt. It sucks to waste liquid, but I just threw it out and started over.

 

[Credo]

Hi. This is my first post. I've been vaping for just a few weeks now and enjoying the exploration, but there is just so much information to sift through! I'm hoping someone can answer a few questions.
I'm using a 650 mAh ego with a smok dc mega cartomizer, which I chose after doing a lot of research. I haven't had any problems, and have been loving it...until now. I got a new batch of sampler juices in the mail and after letting them steep for a while, I filled a new carto with juice just as I had with every other flavor/cart I have used til now. I did everything the same, but it tastes like burning electrical things smell, with some burnt sugar on top. Any ideas what caused this?
Also, I've read some conflicting things about the set up I'm using, re: dc mega cartos being bad for ego batteries. Can anyone clarify this using newbie speak?
And finally, is it bad for juices to sit in the cold, like in my mailbox when it's freezing outside? It's that time of year, and I have a few more orders on the way.
I have many more questions, but suppose too many might be inappropriate for this forum. Not sure of all the etiquette yet.
Thanks to anyone who wants to reply.

Dual Coil cartomizers typically aren't recommended for a smaller EGO battery if it is one of the older models. The 1.5Ohm type draw a good deal of current from that little battery. A 2 Ohm dual coil will have problems working well with that small battery (It might be quite good right off the charger, but would quickly drop off in performance).

A number of things can cause the burnt taste. Usually it happens when the cartomizer isn't properly full. Once it happens with these type cartos, it's probably easiest to just toss it and use a new one if it gets bad tasting.

It also tends to happen when the carto is just 'spent'. I.E. It has been used a while and just doesn't work so well any more.


With the regular EGO battery, I personally prefer something like this:
MINI Vision Vivi Nova Tank System - Metal Tube

That's just one of many models of wicking tank systems available these days. Yes, it is possible to get a 'bad taste' from these type atomizers as well, but many of them can be washed, recoiled, etc to last a little longer.
A PBusardo Tutorial - Vivi Nova Cleaning & Rebuilding - YouTube

Many people still prefer the traditional cartomizer with filler inside. With a regular ego Battery I personally would go with a single coil version from 2Ohms (for warmer vape...shorter puff/draw style) to 3 Ohms (slightly cooler vape, longer slower draw styles).

If you find that you prefer the traditional cartomizer with filler inside, a good tank can be a good investment: http://www.steammonkey.com/AGR_Carto_Tank_p/agrtank.htm

For such a tank, you'd use cartos with holes punched in them (buy them that way or get a tool to punch your own). Adding a tank and a properly punched carto helps insure the batting inside maintains a good and consistent amount of liquid without having to constantly drip in more liquid.

 

[embee214]

You all are great. Thanks for the fast replies!! Will try a tank soon, looking at vivi novas. I really like these big cartomizers, though. What type of batteries are more compatible with them?

 

[Baditude]

Will try a tank soon, looking at vivi novas. I really like these big cartomizers, though. What type of batteries are more compatible with them?

An APV (advanced personal vaporizer) or "mod" that uses replaceable rechargeable batteries or an iTaste MVP which has a built-in rechargeable battery that lasts 2 - 3 days per charge.

Advancing Up the Vaping Ladder with Mods

 

[Credo]

You all are great. Thanks for the fast replies!! Will try a tank soon, looking at vivi novas. I really like these big cartomizers, though. What type of batteries are more compatible with them?

If you really like the dual coil mega sized cartos and the small size of the EGO:
Newer/larger EGO type batteries such as the Twist should be ok (1000mah and up...they also have more modern safety features and offer some ability to fine tune the coil temperature a bit).
Joyetech eGo-C twist battery Promotion
Similar range:
iTaste VV | Innokin


At the next level there are multitudes of choices, sizes, shapes, and price ranges.
Some are boxy and have built in LIPO batteries like the MVP:
iTaste MVP | Innokin
Notice how the MVP is fully regulated, offers Variable Voltage/Wattage, and has an ego style connector on top? It'll take your beloved mega-dualie type cartos.
One nice thing about this style is that the charger and all is built right in...a great option for anyone that lives in a USB world.


If you like something tube shaped instead with easily changeable batteries...for extended use with the dual coil platform you'll probably want something that can at least hold an 18500 size IMR High Drain battery. There are dozens of these to choose from...ranging from really simple tubes that just hold the battery up to really fancy stuff. If you like the tube shape better and wish to stay with EGO style mega cartos/tanks, remember to check that it has room for EGO type cartos and tanks, or comes with some kind of extension/adaptor to hold them.

As a first APV (advanced personal vaporizer) It's recommended you go with something that is 'regulated' which provides variable voltage/wattage functions.
Examples:
http://www.joyetech.com/product/eVic.php
SMOKTech ZMAX Ecig Mod Variable Volt & Watt
Innokin iTaste SVD | Innokin
ProVari - ProVape
The reason for this is primarily battery safety. Such PVs will have safety features built in that will help take better care of your batteries and avoid accidents with them. The gravy, is how they allow you to fine tune the heat to your atomizer, and have a consistent temperature all the way through a battery charge. The vape will be similar from the first draw off the battery to the last before it needs to be recharged...where an unregulated APV will start out really hot, and 'sag' in performance as the battery gets weaker.

There are also 'unregulated' APVs out there. These are often called 'mechanical' mods, even though some of them are not 'fully mechanical (might have wires and/or semi-conductive switches)'. For the most part they are simply a tube to hold the battery and atomizer/cartomizer. These can often be attractive due to their durability, low cost, and looks, but they do require extra thought in battery choice, care, and safety precautions.
Examples:
Kamry K100 Empire Mod
Smoktech Magneto
Smoktech Natural fully mechanical e-cigarette.

With unregulated devices it is also possible to drop a "Kick" button into it for added safety and fully regulated style adjustments (variable wattage/heat). (Highly recommended...especially if it's your first mech and you don't already own a regulated VV or VW mod).
Evolv Kick 2
Smoktech Kick VW Booster

 

[joemar4]

Question. I have a regular Evod setup with the 1.8 ohm coils. I see they sell the replacement coils in either 1.8 or 2.2 ohms. Is there an advantage to one over the other? The 2.2 means the coil won't heat up as much correct? Does that result in a taste difference or just the amount of vapor?....or none of the above? The battery is the standard Evod 3.7V constant output voltage battery @ 650mah.

Thanks in advance for your help

 

[nobreak1970]

I'm vaping with a 2.2 ohm carto on an ego 650mah @ 4.2volts. It has variable voltages. (just click 3 times and it goes up or down) 3.2, 3.7, 4.2
No problems ever with this setup. Not sure what everyone is talking about...the little batteries can handle most basic setups. Just my 2 cents.

 

[nobreak1970]

OH and welcome to ECF!!!!!

 

[embee214]

Thanks for all the info. What gets me is that, if egos and dc mega cartomizers are not a good match, why are they sold together as a "starter kit"?
Also, any suggestions on which tanks are best for thick, high-VG juices? Preferable a glass one as I tend to prefer flavors that can crack plastic (or so I've read, haven't had the experience yet).

 

[Credo]

Thanks for all the info. What gets me is that, if egos and dc mega cartomizers are not a good match, why are they sold together as a "starter kit"?

It depends on which EGO battery you have...how old it is...how many times it has been recharged, etc.

Using Ohm's Law: A 1.5 Ohm carto can draw from 2.2 to 2.8 Amps from a 3.7v Ion battery over its charge cycle. Older models of the EGO battery were not intended to do more than 2 amps, many of them would even cut themselves off when exceeding 2 amps.

Some of the first models of EGO batteries had switches/buttons in them that were not meant for use above 3 amps. While that fits the range of our application here...it barely fits. While those models are some years old...it's quite possible that older models are still in stock around the world and being sold.

Newer and larger versions (Mah rating) of the EGO might be just fine. It's just that these have been out there for a long time and it's not always easy to tell if you have an older one, a newer one, a 'clone/fake', or the real thing.

Next, the chargers themselves come into play. The quality and status of these are also something we have no way of knowing. Some can over-charge a bit. Some charge too fast, etc. Lots of little things can occur that can lead to a less safe set-up for a rig that is pulling a 2+ amp load from a small Ion cell.

Notice that earlier I provided links for some newer EGO sized stuff known to give a bit more head-room for set-ups in the 3 amp range. Those would still be pretty stressed by a 1.5 Ohm set-up, but it would be the minimum that I personally would run 1.5 Ohm dualies with on a regular basis.

If you baby your equipment (keep it clean and don't beat it up much), a fresh, new (recent model, not one that's been in someone's warehouse for 3 years), genuine EGO battery may well do you if you're a light to moderate vaper. Just be mindful that more than 2 amps load on such a small battery is added stress...inspect it regularly, and consider retiring the unit after a year or so of use (slightly over-killed safety margin...).

Essentially, think of it like this:
If you needed to pull a trailer 70 miles a day, primarily with freeway driving/traffic from 50mph up...you'd choose a vehicle with an engine, breaks, tires, and safety equipment optimized for that kind of driving right? Choosing something with light breaks, mushy tires, and an underpowered engine would be a road hazard waiting to happen, would be more difficult to control, and would not last nearly as long before it started falling apart (UNSAFE).

For safer/longer operation of a 1.5 Ohm system...choose a battery that can handle that load easily...without being stressed to its upper limits.

Why would they be bundled as kits? It's not the most regulated industry out there...vendors often import sea vans full of stuff then smash together their own concoctions. It's difficult for people here offering advice to assess the quality/age of what you are currently using, so many of us are going to suggest a bigger battery for anything constantly drawing loads over 2 amps.

If your vendor is someone you know and trust to have hand selected QUALITY stuff...and will stand by the safety of your kit, then it's your own judgment call. Go ahead and use what you have...I just highly recommend you get rid of it after a year or so of charge cycles. Battery chemistry does stretch over time...since it's in your face...don't take chances...toss the battery after a year if you're constantly running it under a 3ish amp load. Overkill? Maybe...but it is your face/hands/pockets/purse/home at stake, and the cost will be less than a few pennies a day to retire it from every day use after a year (emergency back up maybe)...and totally GET RID OF IT at 2 years tops...worth it to be safe

Clones/Fakes
This can be a problem that is difficult for people in the forums to assess. There have been considerable reports of dangerious/substandard counterfeit products being out there (rejects, untested batches, etc.). Such products tend to be slapped together with parts that were never intended to be used at all...let alone within inches of a human face. This is another reason many of us make recommendations with some extra head-room for battery safety.

 

[embee214]

Wow. Thank you for all the info. Will heed your advice.

 

[DaveP]

I'm suspecting that your carto wasn't sufficiently saturated with juice when you started vaping it. Use the condom method in the video to make sure it gets fully filled and your carto tank will taste much better. Once you vape a carto that's starving for juice, you just might ruin it for taste.

Try a new carto and prime it this way. Leave it in the cap for at least 15 minutes before assembling the carto tank.

 

[Credo]

Also, any suggestions on which tanks are best for thick, high-VG juices? Preferable a glass one as I tend to prefer flavors that can crack plastic (or so I've read, haven't had the experience yet).

For the cinnamon bombs...I'm sad to say I've yet to find a tank or carto that I really like. Cinnamon is just too tough on the equipment. If I find one that the tank part doesn't fall apart...then I run into problems with O rings, wicks, etc.

For my cinnamon bombs I just drip into a bog standard 510 or 306 bridge-less atomizer and make sure to pick out a good metal, glass, or ceramic drip tip. When I'm about ready to put that atty away, I'll add some no-flavor liquid and vape most of that away before storing the atty...and be sure to clean up the drip tip.

I'll sometimes use a rebuild-able atomizer with a stainless mesh or silica wick for a cinnamon bomb vape if that's all I have at hand...but I try not to leave it rigged with liquid still on/in it. In my experience the strong cinnamon (and some super sour flavors) is just too rough on the bits and pieces in the atty to bother with a tank, or anything with fibers/fillers inside.

Same for some of the super sour flavors with a higher PH level. I keep them away from tanks, wicks, etc.

Also for those stronger flavors...I get them into glass bottles ASAP if they don't already come that way. I learned the hard way how fast they'll absorb a 'plastic taste'.

Finally on the higher PH stuff...I've learned to take it easy...it's easy for me to get carried away with it and wake up with a raw throat and/or sinus

On the VG...
I can't offer much advice since the most VG I've used was in 50/50 mixes. On the 50/50, I've never had serious wicking problems with cartos or top coil CE style tanks.

With filler type cartos...I have experienced that the 'first fill' can sometimes be a little more difficult with a thicker liquid. A little more patience to let it soak in well and start the wicking action...but once it gets going it's usually just fine.

Most of the tanks out there these days are pretty good. It'll be subjective as to which you prefer. They'll all have different quirks, pros, and cons that go with them. Just read the threads...check out reviews on Youtube, etc...and see what looks good to try.

 

[embee214]

"Clones/Fakes
This can be a problem that is difficult for people in the forums to assess. There have been considerable reports of dangerious/substandard counterfeit products being out there (rejects, untested batches, etc.). Such products tend to be slapped together with parts that were never intended to be used at all...let alone within inches of a human face. This is another reason many of us make recommendations with some extra head-room for battery safety."

What about batteries from FastTech? I've read threads in which lots of people swear by them, so are they a trustworthy source? I've also read that most batteries and other pv parts are all made by the same manufacturers in China, regardless of the name on them. Is that true? And if so, how do we know which are safe and reliable?
Oh, the confusion...

 

[Credo]

"Clones/Fakes
This can be a problem that is difficult for people in the forums to assess. There have been considerable reports of dangerious/substandard counterfeit products being out there (rejects, untested batches, etc.). Such products tend to be slapped together with parts that were never intended to be used at all...let alone within inches of a human face. This is another reason many of us make recommendations with some extra head-room for battery safety."

What about batteries from FastTech? I've read threads in which lots of people swear by them, so are they a trustworthy source? I've also read that most batteries and other pv parts are all made by the same manufacturers in China, regardless of the name on them. Is that true? And if so, how do we know which are safe and reliable?
Oh, the confusion...

Sorry, I don't know about FastTech. I have a few favorite vendors near by (In the USA) that I prefer to use. For the most part I've gotten to know the vendors well enough to know what they like, how they balance out their prices on PV gear, how they'll treat a customer if they have a problem, and what hoops they go through to ensure some quality control. Out of my list, I've also pretty much learned which ones have local post offices that are on the ball and which ones seem to have a MISSION to slow all mail down to a crawl on purpose.

I like vendors that try to do a little more than just be a bargain bin. Do their owners and partners personally sample the stock they sell, and put their real name and faces out there (heart and soul...standing by what they sell)? Are they active in their community, providing jobs and playing active roles in their cities'/states' civil activities? Are they ECF members who put some time and money into forums like these? Do they participate when it comes time to lobby a city council or capitol hill on the behalf of their industry and customers?

On Batteries...

Michelobe, Budweiser, and Bush beers can all come from the EXACT same VAT, but there's a big difference in the consistency, color, taste, and quality of each 'brand'. In a sense, this analogy can also be applied to battery technology. A small hand full of companies have the facilities and resources to put together Lithium batteries. As units roll off the line, they are put through series of tests. The more tests they pass, the more intense the tests get. For a multitude of reasons each batch of batteries can range in quality, abilities, defects, etc. The creme of the crop goes to the high end applications and has the higher price.

When you get the real deal, it usually means more steps have been taken in the quality control realm to ensure you've a safer and better performing battery.

The Rejects:
What happens to a unit that totally fails a quality control check? Ideally it gets destroyed somehow and will be recycled, but in some countries there are very loosely enforced or non existent regulations for industries...they might go to the highest bidder for black market trade, or someone might LIE and say he's buying them to power 0.2 Amp LEDs on a tower in the middle of Lake Michigan (miles away from PEOPLE), but then find a way to falsely pass them off as a higher end battery (such as one that'll be driven to 3amps while in a person's pocket or face).

Some countries have environments where a counterfeiter can easily set up a shop overnight...make a run of 'true clones', and fade into non-existence literally over night. In the case of batteries...some even collect used batteries out of garbage bins, and then apply 'fake' jacket with premium specs, brands, and logos. (So far I've only heard of these coming from outlets like eBay or Craig's List...but they can easily trickle into small mom and pop stocked stores from there).

Age:
The technology does get BETTER every year. The stuff does get improved and upgraded with every single batch (where possible). Still, older units are stocked around the world waiting to be sold. The longer they've been on a shelf...the more likely they are to become 'bargain bin' items, or to be pushed off on the least experienced consumers.

I'm not trying to advocate that this is such a serious problem that every vaper will be burned with a reject or fake. The PV industry has a good record so far, and part of that reason is people being a little over-cautious when handling a battery that's operated right in her face. It's not THAT WIDESPREAD of a problem...it's just one that exists and influences what I feel safe about recommending to others in a public forum. I'm just attempting to point out one of the reasons many of us recommend getting a bigger battery when using a set-up that draws more than 2 amps. Rather than stressing a small battery to its upper limits (quality control is more critical if you're stressing something to its max), you're operating a different size/chemistry battery right in its 'sweet zone' for safety (less likely to be a problem if quality is a little lower), performance, and efficiency.

If you like the dual coils, and you vape pretty frequently (2ml of liquid or more a day)...consider a bigger battery next time you buy. It's highly likely you'll be glad for the upgrade.