So what's the deal with RBA's?!

[Chikenbok]

I'll answer half your question - I always oxidize my Kanthal before I use it. It makes it easier to work with and fixes up hotspot problems from the get-go.

 

[SirSteve]

Like my AGA T+ and AGI, but I really do want to try the octopus, however I have told myself that I really don't need any more vape gear at the moment. Three things I would like to have, the octopus, a Provari, and one more mechanical, and just as soon as I give myself permission to order them, I will.

 

[USinchains]

After 2 failed rebuilds on the A7 I finally got a working coil! - 1.8ohms, (too bad I was using crappy juice I hate) my second one was jumping all over the place...3.0/4-5ohms what the heck! Why does that happen?

Anyway confidence restored as I was going to chuck the A7 and go back to my Vivis - ordered 2 Igo-L's as I've heard great things...
The A7 is leaky and I'm not feeling the adjustable connecter as it always sinks up. I see the Igo has a sealed connector which I appreciate
Now i gets it-at least a taste of these things called rebuildables.
Any other suggestions of good RDA's?
View attachment 208193

I found a plastic straw the same diameter as the adjustable screw's thread shaft, cut a ring maybe 2mm wide off and slid it onto the screw threads. It hits the base when you screw the pin back in, stiffens it up and keeps it from wiggling back and forth. Anything fatter like an o-ring can cut air flow. Mine didn't leak but I also got advice to put an o-ring down inside the bottom of the base before the main repairable part is screwed in.

The straw piece helps but I still have a hard time getting a good resistance reading unless it's screwed onto a mod top-cap. One time it was hitting at 1.8 on the mod, but I reattached it and it went back to 1ohm, where it was intended. Could have been a few things but I suspect the A7 +pin. It seems to help to have the pin about 1mm up inside the 510 connector.

Pheonix DRA XL and XL2 are wide drippers, quirky IMO but nice looking.

 

[Buddychuck]

I love to build things and been wanting to try RBAs so here is my question.
What is a good starter RBA/RBD to use on eGo Twist?

 

[Commie]

I can't speak for ALL genesis and no one else should either. While they are similar in design they are not identical in operation. I carried a mech with an AGA-T2 and a Vamo with an AGA-T2 with me to work today. One stayed in my coat pocket and the other was either in my hand or my front pants pocket... while I was sitting down. I leave the "fill" screw/plug out of mine too and have *never* had a leak. Other genesis? Maybe. My AGA-T2s, not yet.

On the flip side of that coin every dripper I have will leak when it's overfilled or tipped on it's side *while* it's freshly filled. My IGO-L is the least "leaky", my Smok RDA (with the factory bottom air hole) ties my A7 for most "leaky". My Phoenix clones fall somewhere in the middle. (The Smok RDA is still my all time favorite vape though... with the AGAs in a close second and the IGO-L in third.)

This is funny, but I have opposite results
My AGA leaks like a sister, even with the fill screw in place.
And my A7 was the most leak proof atomizer I've had so far.
We must be setting them up differently.

 

[evgeny131]

just wanted to share....View attachment 208331

 

[Statistic]

I love to build things and been wanting to try RBAs so here is my question.
What is a good starter RBA/RBD to use on eGo Twist?

Rebuildables can be harmful to eGo style batteries if you coil them with too little resistance. They'll work just fine as long as you don't short the battery, which you can avoid by making sure resistance is at least 1.4ohms or more. 1.2 would probably be ok but better to not push your luck.

So, that said, if you want to get into rebuilding atty's and use them on your twist it is imperative you use a multimeter to double and triple check resistance before putting it on your battery, and stick to silica wicks also.

Two suggestions for RBA's for an eGo battery: the IGO-S and the Vision Eternity