Some advice on my EPipeMod Pipe

[moJoe]

I really wanted a pipe, so I bought one. The form factor and look are fantastic, now I just need to kit it out so that it hits properly. I got a small one (holds an 18350,) so the in line eGo Booster isn't going to help I don't think.

I have a ViVi Nova that... meh, it's not working great at the moment. I really want something that wicks well, or draws from the bottom or something. Right now I'm pretty sold on the idea of setting it up with an rba. Most sites say it's best left to advanced users, but I'm fairly certain that with a multimeter, I can get it sorted out. I want to be able to drop my resistance down and dial in my wattage manually so that my pipe kicks.

I was looking at the Phoenix and the AGA T+ or DID. I've watched a number of videos that show how to rebuild these atomizers. Most of them say the Phoenix is a good place to start with rba's, but honestly, it looked like a way bigger pain in the ... to rebuild than the bigger rba's.

Does anyone currently have a good setup for an EPipeMod or other 3.7v mechanical mod that draws well? Alternatives to an RBA?

I'm also kind of worried that the RBA's might leak if the pipe is left on its side or in a pocket. The wick hole and fill hole look loose on the DID, and several videos recommend that you leave the fill hole screw out for better air draw. Thoughts on that?

Thanks!

--Joe

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

My AGA-T+ and DID clone never leaks. Planning to use the DID clone when i get a pipe, as it is less bulky.

 

[muffluvin]

i have an epipe mated to a cobra 3ml and it works great man. It's my all day vape mod. I did try an AGA-T on it but I avoided i because of the leaking/sweating of juice on it. Ejuice or any other liquid damages the finish on the wood. An AGA-S is also good on epipe. Here are pictures of a pipe I used to own and the RBAs I used on it. I never had issues with them aside from short battery charge life .

HTH

with Igo-L

with AGA-S and Tanbur Tip

With Cobra and BDS90 Drip Tip

with Atom Bomb and 8" Churchwarden Pipe Stem

with Kanger T3

with defcon RBA

my daily vape

 

[mistinthewoods]

King Pipe made by Beautiful with my frosted Phiniac Cobra atty. Hits real well if I build the coil to 1.2 to 1.4Ω.

Cheap li'l X-Cube with a Vision Eternity atty built to a similar resistance. I find it's best to build your own coils when using a fixed voltage / wattage device like most pipes.

 

[DocNukem]

I really wanted a pipe, so I bought one....(holds an 18350,) so the in line eGo Booster isn't going to help I don't think....

Thanks!

--Joe

Your post raises two questions in my mind. First, why wont the eGo Booster help with variable voltage on the 18350 battery? Second, are there still eGo Boosters available? I checked the Canadian web site of the manufacturer and it says they're no longer making the Booster (v 1.0), but to keep checking the site for information on v 2.0
I have an order in with ePipeMods and I was thinking about getting an eGo Booster. Now I'm not sure if that's a good idea - even if there are still some v 1.0's available.

 

[Antoly]

I've found eGo Mega Dual Coil cartos work better of all on my epipemods e-pipe. They look good with bent mouthpiece I've got from epipemods. Easy to fill, cheap enough. Yes, they are low-resistance so they drain 18350 batteries fast. To live with that I have ten 18350 batteries and 6-channel charger. I have eGo Booster as well.

My e-pipe on the avatar is with eGo-T which I was trying to use initially. It was waste of time and ton of money.

 

[DocNukem]

I tried to research "IMR" but the only explanation I could find is on a vendor's web site. As I understand it, lithium ion batteries can utilize several different chemistries. There are "ICR" lithium ion batteries that utilize a lithium-cobalt oxide chemistry. They can easiliy overheat if charged or discharged at too high a rate. Thus, they require a current-limiting protection circuit.
The "IMR" type batteries use a lithium-manganese oxide chemistry. These are not as severely effected by higher rates of charging and discharging. They don't have a current-limiting protection circuit.
I trust that this information is correct. Please let me know if it isn't.

The problem is....I still don't know what "IMR" and "ICR" stand for. I would have thought that the designation for these two types of chemistries might use the first letters of the primary reactants (Li-Mn Reaction and Li-Co Reaction). Unfortunately, the letters don't quite match up.
At this point, it's just a matter of curiosity - but a definition would help to keep me from staying awake at night thinking about it.

Doc

 

[DocNukem]

A bit more research has answered my question about the availability of eGo Boosters (v 1.0). The Canadian supplier site HappyVaper.com still lists them. I purchased one for ~$60.

Doc

 

[ScotchOnTheRocks]

I bought an ego booster about a month ago, filled out the warrenty and it worked well with my pipemod... for about a week. Then it died, I have sent a couple of emails to ArtisanVaping.com per their contact instructions and cannot even get a response from them.

Hope you had better luck than I did, and I hope you have better luck than I did, because apparently their year warranty is worthless.