Some basic questions from a first time modder

[Janusxvii]

So I have been vaping for about 8 months now and I would consider myself capable with electronics/DIY projects so I'm thinking about building my own mods. From what I can tell, the electronics required can be extremely simple if the only objective is to fire an atomizer. It's because of this simplicity that I wanted to make sure I'm not missing something. Basically for my first attempt I was going to just make a simple circuit between the batteries (haven't decided what type yet) and the atty with a switch in between. Can it really be this simple or am I going to blow something up? Second, do atomizers have any sort of polarity? I can't see why they would but perhaps there is a generally observed convention on this. Lastly, can variable voltage capabilities be added by incorporating a potentiometer into the previously mentioned circuit? As I've mentioned before I've done more than a few non-ecig related projects but this would be my first experimenting in this arena so I would like to go as basic as possible.

Thank you in advance for any and all input.

 

[Razloz]

It's really easy if you're comfortable with soldering. I just started on my first DIY box mod and it's nearly done just waiting on the battery connector to arrive. You've got the idea, you create a circuit from the batteries to the atty with a switch in between (I'm using two, one push button and a slider for a kill switch). You are correct in thinking there's no polarity for the atty. As long as there's a complete circuit to power the coil you're good (center post and outer casing of the atty connector are separated by a little silicon gasket to prevent a short). Just pay attention to the wire gauge you're using and the supported amps on your switches. Depends on what kinda voltage you're gonna be running at but I'm sure you know that having worked with other projects on the subject. Oh yea and about variable voltage, that's exactly how it's done but it's usually attached to a voltage regulator. I haven't made one yet so can't help too much with that, tis my next project

Edit: Just a quick note, from what I've seen it's pretty common practice to attach the positive to the center post of the atty connector. I like having my kill switch/trigger between that as well. Happy modding, and don't forget air holes incase of battery failure!

 

[cskent]

1. Yes, it can really be that simple. I've built several boxmods with the switch simply wired into the + side coming off the battery. It would work equally well wired into the - side though. This leaves it as an unregulated mod so the voltage drops as the battery drains, add a voltage regulator and it's a bit more complex but not much.

2. Atomizers are simply a heating coil, they don't care about polarity. They're basically the same as a lightbulb, which if you wired it incorrectly it wouldn't suck light out of the sun .

3. You really should regulate a VV device, adding a pot to the circuit to control output voltage.

 

[Rader2146]

My suggestion is to start off with a simple "NicoStick" type box mod. Then venture into the Evercool or a simple OKR VV mod.

Polarity technically doesn't matter for the connector. I'm a fan of positive centers just so there is not an exposed positive potential. If you box/housing/case/body is at all conductive, I would say that positive center is a must so that it cannot create a path to ground if you were to lay your mod on a conductive surface; ie: metal table.

 

[BJ43]

Four solder points and you put it in a box.
$20 VV with meter.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/259577-just-lm2596-users.html

 

[Janusxvii]

Thank you everyone for your responses. I was 99.9% certain of my assessment, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to get input from others who have done this before. Razloz, I completely forgot about vent holes in case of battery failure. Cskent, I see your point about it being unregulated... definitely would want it to stay at a given output voltage. Raider2146 makes a good point about using the center post for the positive connection. Finally, thank you BJ43 for the link. That looks like a really simple setup right there. I wasn't even thinking about a meter or having a recharge input for my first attempt. With that you could focus more on how/what you want to do for the housing.

Again, thank you.

 

[Lance_Wallen]

just slapping a pot on a battery isn't gonna get you VV

some other random bits of info...

a standard lion/lipo single cell battery is 3.7v.
atomizers will work however you fire em up as long as theres no short, but the 'standard' is center pin +, thread body -. There are deviances but they are few and far between.
There are a lot of "cheap" options for doing VW/VV and osme expensive ones. the DNA board, the evercools, etc. shop around for what matters to you, I'm personally going DNA because I prefer the form factor and options that come with that board.
check and double check your ratings. any ol switch won't work... well, it will, just not long calculate your loads in advance and spec your components accordingly.

Finaly tip... read, read, read, read. Scroll through the pages on these forums and look at other peoples builds. They vary from "battery > switch > Atty" simple to some of the breaktru and other mods out there that will actually do your laundry, walk your dog, and vape at the same time.

 

[Mrgreen819]

Start simple and learn to solder well and read schematics. Once you have the basics you can build anything and even make your own modifications to a ckt. Find a online ohms law calculator if your not already fluent in ohms law. Learn about IMR batteries, C ratings etc. Then the sky's the limit you can totally do it.