Some help on my next purchase
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I suppose I need titanium wire to be able to take a vantage of the temperature control as in this will be my first time building coils what gage wire will I need to achieve that type of ohms
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Yeah maybe it was the snow wealth that goes down to the .05 I decided on this one over the snow off because of the fact I don't have to buy batteries and a charger and everything else it's almost the same cost when you factor that in
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Just throwing this out here, but is there a specific reason you want to build that low? If you were running a triple parallel mech box, that kind of resistance would be almost reasonable, but with a regulated box you can just crank up the power on a higher ohm coil. There are some builds that will naturally be a very low resistance, but it's simply not safe to run coils that low on almost any gear available. The amperage draw is crazy.
Ok, just checked the dna200 board specs.... looks like 25 amps max if I'm reading that right. There's a fuse in it for 25 amps anyway. At that level, you'd have to use a coil of at least 0.3 ohms to get the full 200 watts.
If you want to go swimming you don't have to jump into the deep end.
If you want to use an rda for the first time, how bout just get the rda, and build something suitable for your current power source.
Once you get your first rda, my bet is you will like some things about it and not like some things about it, then you find yourself eyeing other rda's.
For example, in my case, getting 30mm rda's was a big deal, because most rda's and tanks are 22mm, and it's hard on the eyes and fingers.
Another thing is most rda's are designed for dual coil, and while I don't mind having the option, sometimes (no most times) the airflow ends up being a problem if I do single coil..
Another thing is size of juice well
Posts arrangement.
Screws.
Post holes.
Side airflow, bottom airflow, or the newer top-intake airflow.
Adjustable centerpin? A lot of devices look like they have adjustable centerpin but when you get it in hand, it's a different story.
According to Steam Engine an Evolv DNA-200 is good for 50 amps and will fire at .08, so a Quad coil setup using 22 gauge kanthal wrapped 5 times with a 3mm ID will get you in the ball park of .08 ohms and it will draw all 50 amps.
In my opinion you have set a crazy goal, especially, for a 1st time builder. A goal of .3 ohms or a little less will get you much better results.
Get a real good handle on Ohms law and battery safety before you get started at all.
In my opinion you have set a crazy goal, especially, for a 1st time builder. A goal of .3 ohms or a little less will get you much better results.
Get a real good handle on Ohms law and battery safety before you get started at all.
you can get a coil jig like the kuro coiler, coilmaster etc.
there are coils you can buy but you still have to attach them to the posts.
claptons I would consider worth buying instead of making.
a rebuildable that has post holes can be easier to attach the coil legs to than one where you have to wrap the wire around a screw.
my 30 gauge and 28 gauge coils have been running for months.
they do get brown after awhile though.
some people prefer to change coils frequently so that they always have shiny coils.
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