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It is watts that == performance.
Watts directly correlate to current.
I use 3.7v Li-Ion batteries (protected but not regulated). 4.17v to 4.2v (unloaded) fresh off the charger.
I prefer something inbetween 10 to 12 watts so I wind my coils to 1.5Ω (+/- 0.1Ω) which results in a current draw somewhere inbetween 2 to 3 Amps. I'd guess probably 80% to 90% prefer things a bit cooler so this is more at the high end of things.
I occassionally use my BB which takes a 14500, 750mAh cell (AW battery, so it's not overrated). It sags a bit but we're not tripping the protection circuit. I'm drawing close to 3C on that battery which would be stressing most batteries which are generally rated for 2C. I typically get around 4 hours out of a charge. It's not completely discharged but the vape is considerably weaker as the voltage drops off.
Most all the time I'm using my SB with a 18650, 2600mAh AW battery. With that I'm only drawing about 1C which would be comfortably handled by any Li-Ion. Those easily last 1.5 to 2 days.
Basically it's all about current draw (rate and quantity).
Run the numbers with something a bit more typical, say 2.5Ω, and we're down around 6.7 watts and 1.6 Amps. With a 750mAh battery you would be close to a 2C draw which most any 14500 is rated for.
Watts directly correlate to current.
I use 3.7v Li-Ion batteries (protected but not regulated). 4.17v to 4.2v (unloaded) fresh off the charger.
I prefer something inbetween 10 to 12 watts so I wind my coils to 1.5Ω (+/- 0.1Ω) which results in a current draw somewhere inbetween 2 to 3 Amps. I'd guess probably 80% to 90% prefer things a bit cooler so this is more at the high end of things.
I occassionally use my BB which takes a 14500, 750mAh cell (AW battery, so it's not overrated). It sags a bit but we're not tripping the protection circuit. I'm drawing close to 3C on that battery which would be stressing most batteries which are generally rated for 2C. I typically get around 4 hours out of a charge. It's not completely discharged but the vape is considerably weaker as the voltage drops off.
Most all the time I'm using my SB with a 18650, 2600mAh AW battery. With that I'm only drawing about 1C which would be comfortably handled by any Li-Ion. Those easily last 1.5 to 2 days.
Basically it's all about current draw (rate and quantity).
Run the numbers with something a bit more typical, say 2.5Ω, and we're down around 6.7 watts and 1.6 Amps. With a 750mAh battery you would be close to a 2C draw which most any 14500 is rated for.
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I have also heard banana flavoring will do the same. And acrylic doesn't like alcohol baths....
The first series is only for Czech users. Their feedback is important to us. Another series will be for all.
I use 14500 750mAh AW, I need two pieces a day. I use bi-spiral (bifilar) solution 0.9 Ohm. Kanthal DSD 44Ohm 0.200 / m.
Performance can not be compared to commercial systems.
Such a response I most often hear from people who have problems create a quality spiral. And they have problems with transition resistances. I recommend eliminating loss, heat and energy. You may then change your mind.
Users do not report any problems. The only problem is the degradation of the surface in bright glowing (manifested after a long time). This problem is only cosmetic.
I agree, the 2.1 ohm 14500 last almost all day. With less resistance, increases performance, decreases stamina.
Quick1 : There is much more variable: contact resistance, the use of Kanthal, Kanthal method of attachment, solder used, the size atomizer chamber, surface evaporation, etc. ..
This is not only use conversions.
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Acrylic tubes have been using for almost a year. I've tried hundreds of liquid and no I did not harm plexiglass. This is fake.
Acrylic is commonly used in pharmaceutical and food industries. Liquid pH is between 3.8 and 5.5. It's not called an acidic environment. That could damage the plexiglass.
If this occurred, the error on the side of poor quality e-liquid.
I was just summarizing, I left out details.
I measure resistance at the male end of the (510 on mine) connector for resistance of the entire circuit.
I use 32 gauge Kanthal and each wrap of the coil, snug around a 2.0 mm diameter wick, is worth about 0.35Ω (so there is negligible resistance in the rest of the circuit).
My kanthal connectors are about 1.75 mm to 2 mm from the mesh and set at the 3 and 6 o'clock positions (so a wrap around the wick is about 1.75 times around. 3 wraps is about 3.75 times around, etc.)
I use a Peaceoffcake Genisis atty (not the hybrid) so I think the chambers are comparable.
3 wraps (actually 3.75) gives me 1.6Ω measured at the connector.
32 gauge kanthal D I'm measuring roughly at 0.048Ω/mm
Each wrap around my 2.0 mm diameter wick is roughly 6.84 mm (center of kanthal wire with 0.1798 mm diameter)
2.0 mm from mesh to each connector.
Kanthal length from connector to connector is roughly 29.65 mm
25.6 mm x 0.048Ω is roughly 1.4
Given that my coils are not tight against the mesh we're in the ball park -- less than 0.2Ω in the rest of the circuit.
I use #400 ss mesh (and kanthal surface information can be derived from above) if you want to compare evaporative surface.
I was just saying a 14500 would be borderline for ME. I think it would be fine for 90% of people. The downside of an 18650 is that you have to carry it around
I can make 2 14500s last me a day. IMR's that is. Without electronics the battery sag would get to me as they reach 3.6-3.7v and I need to switch them out. Boosted to 4.5 or 5v I can take them down to 2.7v and get consistent vaping throughout the charge and I am quite pleased with the evenness. My grey ultrafires are getting a lonnnnng vacation though.
I can make 2 14500s last me a day. IMR's that is. Without electronics the battery sag would get to me as they reach 3.6-3.7v and I need to switch them out. Boosted to 4.5 or 5v I can take them down to 2.7v and get consistent vaping throughout the charge and I am quite pleased with the evenness. My grey ultrafires are getting a lonnnnng vacation though.
Isn't that bad for the battery tho?
Well, when they are available for others, I am in for a couple. These are very elegant. Great work.
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Maybe wrong in the explanation, but I have not had any issues getting genesis attys to work and perform quite well with every battery from RCR-123 to 18650 and everything in between. I'm not big into theory, I grab tools and mods and make them work with what I have on hand. Not very scientific, but it works for me.
HAHAHAHAHAHA! yup, I love to tinker, and if I ruin a part, then i just make a new one
I don't think so, they are high drain and that is what I do from 4.25v down to 2.7, when the booster cuts off. According to Lighthound, lowest discharge voltage is 2.5v
AW IMR 14500 LiMN Rechargeable Lithium Battery
Unless you mean this, which I try to avoid ASAP:
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If you discharge the batteries to 2.5 volts, even to 2.7, their life shortens. Better about minimum 3 volts.
Of course you can discharge accumulators to 2.5-2.7 volts, this will not damage battery instantly, but about 3 volts is much better for their long and happy life.
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Thanks for the heads up. I've been gauging the efficiency of my mods by how low they go, guess I can avoid doing that so much for the sake of batteries.
I had a look at battery university, and did not see a difference for LIMn. I believe it is all part of the Lithium family and so there are common concerns throughout. It isn't that hard to stop vaping at 3.10 or 3.15v as current limiting is noticeable, so I just won't push them for every last drop.
Always wondered why no one makes a protected high discharge rate battery. I suppose there is less need for short protection since the spring will (probably) act as a fuse, but just for undercharge protection alone it would be worth it.
Here's my "poor man's genisis". It's big, ugly, and clunky, but it's working. Having some issues with slow wicking, but I'll get it sorted. Flavor is great.
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