Some homemade attys and genesis

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Quick1

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Hi Quick1

I think the answer your looking for is an O ring..

Maybe with a matching groove inside the acrylic tube for the O ring to 'pop' into.

Ummm, no. Have that. did that. twice. The O ring just didn't work out for me, Either my O rings were larger or the fit tighter or whatever. For an O ring to seal solid and keep it from pulling apart it needs to be really tight. If it's really tight then it's going to fracture the acrylic tube. Maybe not right away then when you knock it over or bang it on something or go to squeeze it together because it's pulling apart slightly. I want to seal/glue mine, semi-permanently, without putting undue pressure on the tube. I haven't ruled out silicone sealer yet. Maybe I just didn't clean or prep the acrylic properly. I would rather nolt epoxy it or JB Weld or something in case I want/need to rebuild it. I suppose with enough effort you could remove that stuff after destroying the tube but that's going to be towards the bottom of the option list (unfortunately that's the only alternative option on the list at the moment).
 
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asdaq

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Quick, sorry to hear of your troubles. Really the silicone will be too soft and the epoxy/jb weld too hard. As an alternative I would propose epoxy putty, as it will dry hard as a rock, but you can pick it off relatively easily when the time comes. To keep it healthier I would suggest a thin membrane of food grade silicone between the putty and liquid, which will be easy to apply (relatively) on one end, say the bottom but will need to be applied at the same time as the putty for the other. That will most likely be a PIA and remember you will eternally see everything once it is done. Doable, but best of luck. :)
 

UA72Riddle

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Im not sure if I am just lucky, or if my maintenance of my wick and coil are working....but I have been using the same wick and coil for five days now with no issues. All I have had to do is scrape around the coil where it touches the mesh with a tooth pick to knock off some of the MINOR build-up, dab it with a paper towel, blow it off....then Im right back to vaping. I loosened my mesh a little, and now I no longer have to do primer puffs. Just like Quick, I can wick the tank empty.
 

Quick1

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Forget the 'silicone membrane' mess from my previous post, just replace with o-rings. Not the stock ones, but the thinner 'italian' ones and putty for reinforcement above the top one and below the bottom one. Much easier to do and will look nicer too.

Got a pointer for the thinner O-rings? One of my 2 genisis is one of the very first. The second included some modifications and I believe has slightly deeper 0-ring grooves. The acrylic tube is almost snug without any rings at all. So getting the tube on with an O-ring in place requires considerable force -- you can not do it by hand. I have to get both caps in position and carefully squeeze them together using channel locks. The end result is that the O-ring gets smeared between the tube and cap. Sort of like the tube cuts it and smears it between the tube and cap outside of the O-ring groove. Yes, I camferred the inside edge of the tube. Then there is considerable force pressiing outward on the tube and inevitably it fractures. Last one went about 3 weeks? I think all it takes is something like having my PV standing up on a desk or whatever and getting knocked over and the impact does it. I'll try the epoxy putty. Next would be liquid epoxy for the permanent glue job. I only have 2 extra tank tubes. I was unable to find this size tubing anywhere.
 

Quick1

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Quick, I'd check with Peace first with the sizing used but the genisis uses 3/8 or 1/2 standard like we have for water plumbing. The same sizes are available in 'italian' which is something like going from 1/8" CS to 1/16" or 3/32"... not sure which.

I'll have to find it. I remember the inside diameter of the tank tube to be 16 mm with a 2 mm wall thickness.
ID: 16 mm
OD: 20 mm

and "standard" (findable) tubing here is 3/4" ID (19.05 mm).
 

WillyB

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asdaq

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He gets his at someplace like plastics.cr, in Zagreb, and I found some at plastik.pl close to home too. USplastics doesn't do metrics- I couldn't find a US supplier who does. I looked at the plans and the SS pieces say 16mm, and I'm not sure of the tolerances. I do recall a batch of tubing had to be replaced as it wasn't 100% circular, so it must be pretty close to exact. But the point of this is, 5/8" = 15.875mm, so very close, and it depends a lot on those tolerances. The OD's are all off the mark, but that is just a cosmetic issue.
 
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Quick1

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Would these be close enough?

.625 ID X .750 OD X 8 FOOT CLEAR POLYCARBONATE

No. 0.625" == 15.875 mm.
I did make one for a while with 0,625" *flexible* PVC. That will stretch over it. I used one with a really thick wall to give it some rigidity over a 1" length. I think it was a 1/8" wall thickness. Not really aesthetic with that wall sticking out past the end caps but it did work temporarily. I might try that again with permanent glue if I run out of other options (my 2 spares).
 

raidy

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Raidy, thank you, I am one of many happy users of Genisis, you can see here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-homemade-attys-genesis-230.html#post2670365
Thanks again to you.

But these days that you are participating in the forum again, I would like to ask you something I always wanted to ask in your thread All my mods part 1, and it is exactly this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1-60.html#post2140577

Raidy, Could you please explain this about:
The magic word is saturation. ppm of liquid / ccm of Vapour.

Thx...

To help you answer this question correctly, unfortunately, my English is not enough.
The answer is very complex and unfortunately not to do with 3-4 records.
I find it difficult enough to make this course in German.

Thats one reason, why part 2 isn't started at the moment.
 

Persis

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To help you answer this question correctly, unfortunately, my English is not enough.
The answer is very complex and unfortunately not to do with 3-4 records.
I find it difficult enough to make this course in German.

Thats one reason, why part 2 isn't started at the moment.

Thx for answer Raidy...

I know it's a difficult issue, and it took my attention from the moment you wrote it.

And I tried to study the subject for myself surfing the web and so, and now I am worse than before of the beginning, is a so so complex subject.

But no problem Raidy, may be in a near future you can find the way to give to us some tips about that matter.
 

Rock Woman

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Yes, that's it 'quick', 20/16 plexi. Let me know if you find some in the US, I wouldn't mind having some for backup.

Quick and Turbo if Polyethylene would work in place of polycarbonate, we have a good cheap source in the US. General Laboratory Supplies in Texas has this "Unbreakable polyethylene straight tubes", 16mm I.D. x 19mm O.D. (5/8"x 3/4").Ct # D4120-1 Mfg #F199600000 4" (102mm) Drying Tubes. 12 $20.13

What is durable and safe to use besides polycarb? Many lab and scientific suppliers do metric. I am on a search for parts because I want to build a Genisis with a 510 fitting. I am having a hard time figuring out a base to mount it into. I thought I could use a good ceramic clay to fashion a top piece for the mesh and connectors. I have a small kiln......and a big torch too!
 

Quick1

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Rock Woman, that's great! I have no idea about the properties. What we have now is acrylic. I think polycarbonate might be more fracture resistant? don't know, it's more tensile strength than impact resistant that we're looking for. And naturally it would need to be chemically resistant to anything that might be in juice. Don't want whatever they're using in those clearomizers that craze and crack with any juice that's a bit acidic. I'd think anything rated safe/suitable for food would work on that count. If you are making your own end caps go for some US standard size...
 
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