Going from the hybrid and my own takes on this, it is really nice to have a
tank tightly pressed on with o-rings (
Quick might disagree)
lol, correct! All 3 of my acrylic tubes cracked due to the o-ring pressure. Maybe diameters were out of tolerance or the groove or whatever. There are 3 components there each with their own manufacturing tolerance. Cap diameter, groove shape and depth, O-ring and inner diameter of the tube. I expect the tolerances on the o-ring and inner diameter of the tube to be large. The fit has to be very tight/snug to seal as well as provide structural support -- for example I think you should be able to drop it on a carpeted floor with no effect. Just seems like way too much of a chance for fail there. If there is any other solution (which I can't think of) I'd prefer that. It would be great to have it
threaded with a flat gasket but then you are going to need the threaded
tank part which defeats the whole idea. One idea I can think of which probably wouldn't be cost effective would be a compression fitting. Collar nut and sleeve type of thing. If we can come up with some available tube material that can easily stand up to the o-ring pressure then that would be fine also. Needs to be shock resistant as well as hold up to lateral force. Try standing your 18650 sleeved hybrid on end on a table and tip it over. When it slaps flat on the table there is a considerable shock on the genisis.
threads for the for the cap.
I'm ALL for that.
For a central wire tube, I could go either way, it still needs to be routed and sealed at the top, but it could continue the ground nicely.
Yes, people forget that the vapor chamber is not dry. Condensation will eventually run down the tube. Having the top cap and the bottom cap/connector electrically connected would be convenient. The tube part not so important. The problem with a rigidly connected top and bottom cap is that you are constrained to a fixed tank tube length. With them not connected it doesn't have to be a precise length (or can be any length you prefer).
Pyrex seems hard to cut/machine but I'm not sure.
If the tank is less than steel strength then it needs to be replaceable. It needs to be replaceable with something that's readily available and with basic tools that most people are going to have or borrow (not a lathe).
I know this is supposed to be inches everything, but could the small holes still be mm?
Just askin
The important part in inches is the tube so that it's easily obtained for replacement. All the small holes will have "soft" fittings like sealing the wire with shrink wrap around it so that shouldn't be a big deal. Metric screws are ubiquitous for the fill hole and maybe the negative connection if the caps are electrically connected.
