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Friends, I'm sorry, I was not long.
I see that they talk about me. So first things first.
Concept of my genisis is without problems. O-rings hold, no pass, no crack. No liquid flows. I have no problem with the exchange spiral. When replacing the spiral rinsed with warm water. For reasons of hygiene.
For readers of my site I prepared a series of 20 pieces of DIY.
For soon publish on its Web site technical drawing my Genisis.
Gesing I improved my Genisis. Now it's ego.
I see that they talk about me. So first things first.
Concept of my genisis is without problems. O-rings hold, no pass, no crack. No liquid flows. I have no problem with the exchange spiral. When replacing the spiral rinsed with warm water. For reasons of hygiene.
For readers of my site I prepared a series of 20 pieces of DIY.
For soon publish on its Web site technical drawing my Genisis.
Gesing I improved my Genisis. Now it's ego.
I also ordered about 2 weeks ago.I haven't heard anything.I did get lucky,and found some @ joanns fabrics in the jewelry making section.
MJ, those look great, don't get me wrong and the size is nice too. It is just that from experience popping of the top and having the coil and wick fully exposed is quite comfortable and reaching in from above seems more restrictive.
Jensb welcome back.
So can the regular Genisis be converted to the Genisis LV? That is great only change kanthal and mesh once a month.
Sorry i forgot to ask a question regarding batteries. I need some more 18350 batteries for the mini. Where do you guys get yours? Can we use 16340 protected batteries in the mini? Thanks
Friends, I'm sorry, I was not long.
I see that they talk about me. So first things first.
Concept of my genisis is without problems. O-rings hold, no pass, no crack. No liquid flows. I have no problem with the exchange spiral. When replacing the spiral rinsed with warm water. For reasons of hygiene.
For readers of my site I prepared a series of 20 pieces of DIY.
For soon publish on its Web site technical drawing my Genisis.
Gesing I improved my Genisis. Now it's ego.
This looks great MJ! I would love to try one out. Did you make all those parts?
Got my tracking number yesterday as well, ordered 4/1/11, so six days for me.
@ 'michael', looks great, so if I understand you correctly you're selling DIY kits to select folks and will post your drawings soon?
I've yet to get batts for the small tube; keep going back and forth but think I will get the IMR AW 18350's. I think the 16340 will work too? Pretty sure I asked that a while ago..
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Turbo, I've got the ultrafires, in that size and 14500, I just got aw imr 14500's and I would say you've made a good choice there. For LR, you get more oomph (heh, Current) that is noticable, and while the mah is lower, the pleasure goes to a lower voltage too. This would undoubtably eliminate the weakness felt in the 18350's (uf) compared to 18650's.
So forgive me for not reading through what is quite literally a BOOK on the subject (291 pages!) but I have a couple questions....
1: I want to order a kit. I get the concept but I don't have time or resources to machine them myself. I don't speak freaky deaky Deutsch or other languages to attempt to order from some overseas forum. Where can I order a kit and move on with my vaping life? (And the Bulli A2 and Ato-miser do not appeal to me). Is anyone making these as kits? Are you guys honoring some "thou shall not resell" code I missed back on page 123 or something? Are you forming some evil alliance to rule the vaping world with your majestic atomizer of the Gods?
2: I understand that a lot of this is considered open source, but this seems like one of the biggest innovations to the industry and yet it is not at all easily available to the market? I see speak of a co-op which I think is forum speak for a bulk order for production. Where is the list? When will it happen? Whose running the show here? Who is centralizing the information? Where is the WIKI and why no "sticky"?
Sorry to be blunt. You guys are all absolutely amazing...but some of us less technically skilled or lathe/mill owning others are flipping anxious!
1: I want to order a kit. I get the concept but I don't have time or resources to machine them myself. I don't speak freaky deaky Deutsch or other languages to attempt to order from some overseas forum. Where can I order a kit and move on with my vaping life? (And the Bulli A2 and Ato-miser do not appeal to me). Is anyone making these as kits? Are you guys honoring some "thou shall not resell" code I missed back on page 123 or something? Are you forming some evil alliance to rule the vaping world with your majestic atomizer of the Gods?
2: I understand that a lot of this is considered open source, but this seems like one of the biggest innovations to the industry and yet it is not at all easily available to the market? I see speak of a co-op which I think is forum speak for a bulk order for production. Where is the list? When will it happen? Whose running the show here? Who is centralizing the information? Where is the WIKI and why no "sticky"?
Sorry to be blunt. You guys are all absolutely amazing...but some of us less technically skilled or lathe/mill owning others are flipping anxious!
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We're trying to nail down design specifics before making anything official. W/ so many different design features from others we're trying to consolidate them into one. Sorta like ordering a pizza...lol
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Start by making the cut of an atomizer or a complete PV with atomizer.
I'm voting for the atomizer with a 510 connector. Switches, size, batteries, components, etc, etc, are doomed to project failure if there is any design by committee. Keep it simple (as possible). Everybody has the pv part already.
In general, keep it as simple and basic as possible. That doesn't mean scrimp on design, materials, machining. But... (sorry Turbo
) if you don't need an led to make it work don't add another point of failure along with the added complexity.EVERYBODY and their uncle is going to sign up wanting one. You really aren't going to know if it's viable without investing a lot of effort, time and resources first. Lot's of people will back out when the rubber hits the road. Lot's of people will back out when it has a price (likely) in the $100+ range. If you want to gauge interest require an upfront, non-refundable, interest fee. Maybe something in the order of $25 to $50. If there isn't enough initial interest for launch then refund everybody. If there is enough interest then you're going to need operating cash for materials, design, getting machinists to look at your design and cost it, etc, etc. Somebody is probably still going to take a risk with an upfront cash outlay. You want to mitigate that. Maybe a pay as you go with an initial buy-in and incremental rounds of "funding" from the group as you go (again, no refunds if you back out).
Of course, if someone is wealthy enough to fund the entire project then no worries
. It would be a shame not to end up with an outstanding result due to cutting corners on development and manufacturing.
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Thanks Turbo are those red AW 18350 IMR protected? Can we use 16340 3.7v? i have loads of those
I dont care how much the genisis atty cost just get my name on that list. lol I will pay up front. lol.
Quick some great ideas about funding. your right people will back out cause they wont pay the price.
I was gonna order two Bulli A2 attys but maybe i will wait.
We all had to pay Peace in full so i have no prob doing that again. Like you said Quick gonna be lot of cash to lay out and maybe the person who is in charge of the CO-OP will need the cash up front.
oh man i cant wait for this CO-OP to begin.
I dont care how much the genisis atty cost just get my name on that list. lol I will pay up front. lol.
Quick some great ideas about funding. your right people will back out cause they wont pay the price.
I was gonna order two Bulli A2 attys but maybe i will wait.
We all had to pay Peace in full so i have no prob doing that again. Like you said Quick gonna be lot of cash to lay out and maybe the person who is in charge of the CO-OP will need the cash up front.
oh man i cant wait for this CO-OP to begin.
Duly noted, although 'asdaq' has my 'led' back...lol
In all seriousness, I do see your point. For me, a 510 connection is a must, easy access to kanthal/mesh, and solve the leaking issues w/ different routing of wires, etc.
I'm still partial to 'persis' design but like some aspects of 'michael's, 'jbs' and look forward to seeing what 'rockwoman', 'lorderos' and we come up w/.
I'm no battery expert but did research them and contacted a guy here that knows a lot about batts. They're not protected but have a safer chemistry compared to protected cells. He sent me a great PM on different batts types. Upon his suggestion I went w/ protected 18650's (Redilast) for the big tube and will get these for the small one.
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Heard of Redilast a while ago. I'm guessing you compared against AWs. What were the comparison points that you chose Redilast on?
I did see a chart once that had Redilast and AW's on it but can't remember the outcome. I think they were close. It was based more on money; the Redilasts were a little cheaper but had good reports much like the AW's. I would've been happy w/ AW's too.
I did choose 2600mAh over the 2900 due to the voltage being 3.7v on the 2600mAh batts and 3.6v on the 2900's.
I agree with quick about the build....most of us already have a good pv that would work great with a genisis. And I know I have said a few times already, but the leaking and soldering issues is why I was leaning toward the all mechanical pv. I think the leaking issues from condensation could be fixed by using shrink wrap tubing over the posts and tube, but with that design, the tubes end in the tank so there is nowhere for it to go at that point.
I don't have any issues with the soldering myself, but I know several do. Also I think we need to consider (if we make a full pv) a pocket friendly button that we can carry around. I think mj was on the right track with his design with minor modification of the top section to have a removable cap. (starting to sound like a broken record at this point )
As for payment.....I'm in for up-front payment in full. But doing a deposit would be a good idea to help with the costs of getting the coop started. I would be good for that too...as long as I am on this list. Can't wait for rockwoman to chime in with the news of a few designs for us to agree on. With the way we are in here....I wouldn't be surprised if we ended up with more than one version.
I don't have any issues with the soldering myself, but I know several do. Also I think we need to consider (if we make a full pv) a pocket friendly button that we can carry around. I think mj was on the right track with his design with minor modification of the top section to have a removable cap. (starting to sound like a broken record at this point
) As for payment.....I'm in for up-front payment in full. But doing a deposit would be a good idea to help with the costs of getting the coop started. I would be good for that too...as long as I am on this list. Can't wait for rockwoman to chime in with the news of a few designs for us to agree on. With the way we are in here....I wouldn't be surprised if we ended up with more than one version.
Start by making the cut of an atomizer or a complete PV with atomizer.
I'm voting for the atomizer with a 510 connector. Switches, size, batteries, components, etc, etc, are doomed to project failure if there is any design by committee. Keep it simple (as possible). Everybody has the pv part already.
RW: I totally agree-510 connector, no PV, G atty only
In general, keep it as simple and basic as possible. That doesn't mean scrimp on design, materials, machining. But... (sorry Turbo
RW: Ditto that is where I am now. A pleasing to the eye, solid design is being worked on.
EVERYBODY and their uncle is going to sign up wanting one. You really aren't going to know if it's viable without investing a lot of effort, time and resources first. Lot's of people will back out when the rubber hits the road. Lot's of people will back out when it has a price (likely) in the $100+ range. If you want to gauge interest require an upfront, non-refundable, interest fee. Maybe something in the order of $25 to $50. If there isn't enough initial interest for launch then refund everybody. If there is enough interest then you're going to need operating cash for materials, design, getting machinists to look at your design and cost it, etc, etc. Somebody is probably still going to take a risk with an upfront cash outlay. You want to mitigate that. Maybe a pay as you go with an initial buy-in and incremental rounds of "funding" from the group as you go (again, no refunds if you back out).
RW: I read through all the posts again and POC tried to do something similar from what I can tell and still had back out. I am giving this thought. I am even considering a two tier item for those shy on cash. A basic unit you solder and provide your own silver wires for or the whole G atty with mechanical connections provided for the 510 connector.
Of course, if someone is wealthy enough to fund the entire project then no worries
RW: I am not wealthy by any stretch but am willing to invest upfront to get an outstanding result. An outstanding result is taking time, though. The connection points for the 510 end and for the up top kanthal end are what is taking the longest.If it was just a matter of a tank (in inch measure) with a 510 connection point and upper metal disc that holds wire and mesh, we would be ready to produce right now.
My goal is to take already fantastic design concepts (thank you Raidy, Thank you, POC, thank you Persis) and bring it all together.
I am at the point though where I would like a vote. My first thought was to produce two sizes. Finance and logistics wise, we need to decide on one size for now.
I am in favor of a bit smaller tank, 1/2" ID 5/8" OD. The larger and closer to the POC design would be a 5/8" ID 3/4" OD. What is your preferred size?
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