Some homemade attys and genesis

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asdaq

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Quick, I use 15/13mm plexi and the wall is 1mm, 1/16" is 1.5-1.6 wall, so even thicker. With the overall size small I am not worried at all about it being fragile. I went to change the tube in this:
5328459126_119f96605d_z.jpg

for a different length but as the bottom plug was in too far and I was pulling on it with pliers I took the easy route and took a hammer to it- then it broke, not so unlike glass. If the o-rings are in right I'm not worried at all about it being too thin.

As for the distance of the parts and ease of working on it, you want the leads and mesh close anyway and the hybrid isn't so different than mine. The threaded wall/moat takes up about 2mm and the parts start inside that. The hard part is drilling them correctly and after I cut a length of rod, the next step is putting the holes in, with just a drill, and if they are reasonably straight then continue. Several times they have been off, but it is close enough to the 1st step to start over.
 

jbs

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Jan 14, 2011
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Stewalin vs Artestone

Informations provided here are barely an end-user observation and not lab tests.

Stewalin/Arteston befor mixing with water:
- brilliant white very fine powder
- hygroscopic
- odorless

Stewalin/Arteston after mixing with water:
- brilliant white
- odorless
- viscosity is higher than water but lower than 100% vegetable glycerin
* Artestone seems to be slightly 'thiner' and 'softer in touch' than Stewalin.

Casted Stewalin/Arteston
- brilliant white
- stonelike
- odorless
- water resistant - it is not 100% resistance, prolonged contact with water or ejuice will make it look 'wet' at first (think of wet concrete) and than after several weeks surface (very thin layer of it) becomes softer and prone to scratching with fingernail (thats what happened to my genesis that i left for a month in a drawer)
- fire/heat resistant - it doesn't ignite or burn, after prolonged exposure to extreme heat (torch) it starts to glow red and cracks
- no visible chemical rection to water or ejuice

Casted 'clean' Stewalin dowel (left) and Artestone dowel (right):


Stewalin dowel (left) and Artestone dowel (right) after 12h in water:


Stewalin dowel (left) and Artestone dowel (right) after 12h in 16mg ejuice:


Stewalin dowels - 'clean', after 12h in water, after 12h in ejuice (left to right)


Artestone dowels - 'clean', after 12h in water, after 12h in ejuice (left to right)


Stewalin dowel vs torch:


Artestone dowel vs torch:


Hope that helps
 

mojox666

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Mar 8, 2011
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Hey JBS,

I wonder if I could make my genesis parts of plaster (odontologic plaster (type V) it's not hydrofobic, but it's hard enough to make dental models and lasts long enogh. I live in Mexico, so I have no acces to any other casting material similar to stewaling or artestone, and I don't want to make my parts of plastic or anything else.

Cheers
Mojito
 

jbs

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Jan 14, 2011
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I wouldn't hesitate to use Artestone instead of Stewalin but remember that i would do it at my own risk.
Obviously Creartec claims that Artestone is of higher quality than Stewalin. I can not deny it. I have noticed Artestone to have lower viscosity and to feel slightly smoother than Stewalin. It may suggest that Artestone can be used for casting more detailed and complex objects.

As for genisis i do like it but somehow i was not convinced to use it with ego batt and it took me some time to make that 18500 alu mod. Right now i am thinking of new genisis without tank, kind of driping genisis i guess. I am just not that desperate for the tank.
 

traderdan

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Hi all
Jbs thanks for the comparison that looks like it took some time to do.
I hear a lot of you talking about stainless steel tubes to hold your heater wire on your Genisis mods . I've tried them didn't like them at all . It seems impossible to get the wire tight and in the right spot.
I've used studs that screwed the wires tight . Didn't like them They are big and ugly hard to fix to mod solidly and seem to loosen the mounts they sit on after long term use .I went back to plain old silver wire to tie the wire to . I wrap the wire at least three times around the post on both posts and over lap the first wrap. Very rarely have a loose wire until I change the coil. Maybe I'm just lucky .
Dan
 

Turbo

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Hi all
Jbs thanks for the comparison that looks like it took some time to do.
I hear a lot of you talking about stainless steel tubes to hold your heater wire on your Genisis mods . I've tried them didn't like them at all . It seems impossible to get the wire tight and in the right spot.
I've used studs that screwed the wires tight . Didn't like them They are big and ugly hard to fix to mod solidly and seem to loosen the mounts they sit on after long term use .I went back to plain old silver wire to tie the wire to . I wrap the wire at least three times around the post on both posts and over lap the first wrap. Very rarely have a loose wire until I change the coil. Maybe I'm just lucky .
Dan

Thanks 'tdan', I respect your opinion, the crimp tubes were cheap enough. If I can't get them to work I'll get the wire wrapping tool from R.Shack and do it that way. I'm use to wrapping guitar/banjo strings and do the overlap method w/ that as well. Shouldn't be too different.
 

Sumratio

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Heya vapeheads, thought I'd better stop lurking and post something. I have been toying around with a couple genesis mods and the one working the best right now is based off Darth Octane's Mini-G.
MiniG.jpg

Big thanks to Raidy, Peaceoffcake, Darth Octane and all the other great forum members keeping the vaping dream alive.
 

UA72Riddle

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That looks like a great mod! I would love to see some more pictures and some details to try that one out myself. Doesn't look like it would be too difficult, but the picture is kind of blurry and hard to make out the details.
Geat job either way!

Heya vapeheads, thought I'd better stop lurking and post something. I have been toying around with a couple genesis mods and the one working the best right now is based off Darth Octane's Mini-G.
MiniG.jpg

Big thanks to Raidy, Peaceoffcake, Darth Octane and all the other great forum members keeping the vaping dream alive.
 

traderdan

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Turbo
Thanks I wont steer you wrong. But I don't use a wire wrapping tool I wrap the post keeping the wire tight with one thumb at the base of the first silver post then I press up on the wire on the post while wrapping around the post using pressure I wrap again pulling it under the thumb again and again then its tight I wrap the heat coils and to the last post I do then same works good .
Sumratio Nice mod more pic's Please .

Dan
 

lorderos33

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I use the wire wrapping tool.... it makes for very economical use of the kanthal wire :)

I am able to take 2 inches of the wire and get 5 wraps on each post and 3 around the mesh....seeing as I have 75 ft of kanthal, it should last me just about FOREVER, hahahahahaha.

All joking aside though, with the wrapping tool I get a very positive connection on the silver wires, I am able to use the wire sparingly and I don't have to fidget with it except when it's time to clean or change it.
 

Turbo

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I use the wire wrapping tool.... it makes for very economical use of the kanthal wire :)

I am able to take 2 inches of the wire and get 5 wraps on each post and 3 around the mesh....seeing as I have 75 ft of kanthal, it should last me just about FOREVER, hahahahahaha.

All joking aside though, with the wrapping tool I get a very positive connection on the silver wires, I am able to use the wire sparingly and I don't have to fidget with it except when it's time to clean or change it.

Good to know, thanks, I'll probably get one for the tool box.

The first time I had her running I used a ferrule on one post and wrapped the other; may do the same or wrap both or ferrule both.
 
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