Those little circuit board scraps? I've seen them, but never used them. If they're thin enough, that would definitely work, but if it's a problem with that one KFL on all devices, I would think it's easier just to lengthen the pin & be done with it.
Sooo what ring fills the Kayfun gap?
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Those little circuit board scraps? I've seen them, but never used them. If they're thin enough, that would definitely work, but if it's a problem with that one KFL on all devices, I would think it's easier just to lengthen the pin & be done with it.
I just don't understand why svoemesto would design a pv cone that does not fit their own tank.
I'm using a genuine kfl+ v2 with a provari mini.
They are very thin. I use for a mod where the pin itself it a bit low -- which seemed to be part of the problem stated.
I'm a gal -- so I come up with some bling to help cover gaps.
I have a couple of those myself. Where in the rebuild order are they supposed to be placed? Dumb question but I have to ask.
If they're the ones I'm thinking of you just put one on the positive post of the Provari before you screw the KFL on.
The opening is w-a-a-a-a-a-y too small. The ones I got anyway.
Those are the one's I was thinking of. Haven't tried them, but it says right in the description, "fits nicely inside a 510 connection". Nothing should go through the hole on the spacer, in case that's what you're thinking? You just drop the whole thing in the 510 connection. It should sit on top of the pin, essentially making the pin longer. The green circuit board part is an insulator to prevent a short circuit.
Here's what I have. They fit on top of the connection pin in the mod. They are tiny little things.
Madvapes -- circuit board spacer.
Madvapes -- circuit board spacer.
That works.........thanks. This should be a lesson for everybody.....don't be afraid to be the one to ask the stupid questions. Somebody has to do it. This time it was me soooooo......next?
Thanks OZ.That works.........thanks. This should be a lesson for everybody.....don't be afraid to be the one to ask the stupid questions. Somebody has to do it. This time it was me soooooo......next?
There are no stupid questions, just stupid politicians.
Here's what I have. They fit on top of the connection pin in the mod. They are tiny little things.
Madvapes -- circuit board spacer.
Have you had any connection problems using this?
Do you have to replace them after a certain time?
Maybe I need to get one of those..
Gotcha. I was wondering because the February ones were the first run & they had short insulators in them. They'd just barely work on a Provari, but wouldn't work with any ring, not just the Svoe cone. Those it was best to just do the o-ring mod on them. I don't know about the April batch. I thought they had it taken care of by then, but there's a chance that some of them still had the short insulator.
I've had no problems and haven't had to replace one so far. I imagine the plastic/insulation part could deteriorate over time with liquid tiny leaks or cleaning.
I'd suggest cleaning the pin with Isopropyl Alcohol first as that's a routine we should be doing regularly anyway for good connection. No need to have gunk hiding under it and messing with your connection.
They come individually packaged in a small printed plastic bag. That's nice for storing extras as they aren't so likely to get lost or trashed. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has done that with small items.
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Ah I see.. Do you know if they sell a longer post that extends a bit further as a replacement? If not, they should make them. That will be the easiest solution.
A longer post will just thread in further & you'll end up with the exact same amount sticking out on the bottom. If you look at the insulator in the pic I linked on page 2 & again earlier today, the insulator looks sort of like a little top hat. The part closest to the end of the post, the thicker part, the brim of the hat, just needs to be a hair longer which will prevent the post from threading in too far. That's why the o-ring trick works - the ring doesn't allow the post to .... up against the insulator, giving it that little extra length. An unintended bonus is that with the resistance that the o-ring provides, trying to expand & push the post away from the insulator, it helps the post lock into the positive block a little tighter. It won't come loose as easily.
The other problem you see, frequently with the counterfeits, is too much of a gap... the post being too long. Again, it's not actually the post, it's that insulator that regulates how far the post sticks out. I have a separate method to fix that problem too.
Considering the manufacturing process for them, I'd guess they can vary in length a bit & still be within spec. That's why you'll see the oddballs being to high or low. AFAIK the 1st run of the v2+ was the only one that was consistently short through pretty much the entire batch.
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